Thread: Piano hinges OK for MDF?

Hi Jill

To be honest using a piano hinge with mdf would be more trouble than its worth as you will have to pre drill all the screw holes to stop the mdf from splitting and I personally don't think it will take the weight.

If it was me I would use the euro style cupboard hinges, depending on the size of the door you may need 2 or 3, I have 3 in a 2m high door without any problem. If you need the door to open fully you can get 180 degree euro hinges.

just my 2 cents worth.

David

The European style hinge (as seen in most prefab cabinets) allows for adjustment in every direction and can solve problems latter on if things move or warp. There will also be a forty less holes to drill and screw to screw.

I guess you could use a piano hinge but it is a lot more difficult to do than normal cabinet concealed hinges. For a start you would need to use longer screws than those supplied with a piano hinge and you would have to make sure you had the correct sized pilot hole otherwise the mdf would split if screwed into the edge. I have done it on a small toy box with a lift up lid and it works.

However for cupboard doors, concealed hinges are much better, easier to fit, self closing so you don't need a catch. They are readily available from most hardware stores (Bunnings, Mitre 10) and cabinet supply places. You can get them in different styles eg open to 110 degrees or open out and back flat(180 degrees) You will need to use a Forstner style bit to cut a 32mm pocket in the back of the door to take the hinge.

Here are some pictures of this type of hinge. The second one is the 180 degree style

Cheers,
Chipman

Originally Posted by djfoggin

Hi Jill

and I personally don't think it will take the weight.

Weight = weight of door + small child swinging

Lets call them the European style concealed wiz bang hinge

Thanks everyone for your recommendations on hingeing this door. Unfortunately the concealed hinges actually swing the door in by about 10mm when it is in the open position, restricting the carcase opening, which would prevent the sliding baskets in this cupboard from sliding out without hitting the door.

I cannot go any larger opening angle than the 107deg concealed hinges, because hinged side of the cupboard is near a wall.

Is this problem insurmountable?

kind regards,
Jill

PS loved your comment; how true:
"Weight = weight of door + small child swinging "

Can you post a picture...It might help someone come up with a solution.

good idea, chipman, thanks. See attached. Another case of a picture being worth a 1,000 words

The inside surface of the door, and the inside surface of the carcase side need to be in alignment when the door is open

kind regards,
Jill

can you rout a groove in the edgee of the door say 10 mm by 10mm and then glue in a piece of solid timber (maple or similar). The piano hinge screws can then be screwed into the solid timber.

just a thought
epf

A piano hinge would take the weight (you could reinforce the screw holes with epoxy to reduce the possibility of tear out, but I doubt you would need to unless its chipboard not MDF!) but they are a total pain to get all aligned if you are trying to install the door.

900x600 is only a touch bigger than you'd find hanging off piano hinges at corner cupboards. I've never seen one of those fail at the piano hinge, but I have seen euro hinges that have seen better days on corner cupboards.

I'd suggest trying a different brand of euro hinge that is designed to open clear - Blum make a zero-protrusion hinge specifically for cabinets with pull out drawers (Page 72 of the 2006 catalogue from here - http://www.blum.com/au/en/01/99/index.php )

If you've got a wall next to where it opens...make sure the handle won't act as an impromptu door stop and prevent the door opening a full 90 degrees; see also "how to repair plasterboard when a door handle punches a hole in it!"

I think this might be what you want from hafele...

Mastersplinter has got the right one for sure...just checked...see p72 below

Regards,
Chipman

Many thanks, MasterSplinter and chipman, for all your help - it is very much appreciated. I like the look of the Blum zero protrusion hinge - never knew such an animal existed.

kind regards,

Jill

I have occasionally used normal cupboard hinges and reinforced the screw holes with dowels. Drill three blind dowel size holes in the face of the chipboard/mdf inside the cupboard matching the location of the hinge screw holes.

Glue in a length of dowel, trim flush and screw the hinges on, through the dowel. This works conceptually similar to knock down joiners.

One set back after another! These hinges take up 60mm of vertical space on the cabinet carcase, so I had to rearrange the spacing of the 3 wire baskets to avoid hitting the hinge. In fact, had to replace one 185mm deep basket with a 85mm deep unit. Ended up fitting the hinges at the extreme top and bottom of the cabinet carcase.

Still, it worked out OK in the end, the only problem being the door ( 900 x 600 x 16 mm) is a bit too heavy for just 2 hinges, but I don't have space for a third hinge

Not too sure how it will stand the rigours of daily use before sagging. Time will tell!

Fitted a child proof lock ( for the grandkids), but it used the tiniest Philips head wood screws I have ever seen, so ended up screwing it on by hand with a tiny , tiny screwdriver in a confined space at the top and bottom of the cabinet. Makes you realise just how much we rely on and use the battery operated drill and screwdriver bits , eh? I really missed it!

Thanks for your advice and help, everyone, it has been a real good learning curve

kind regards,
Jill