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  1. #1
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    May 2012
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    Default Printed Template Hollow Wooden Surfboard Build

    Hi all,

    My names Jack and I've decided to post a documentation of a paulownia hollow wooden surfboard (HWS) built using a printed template.

    My Dad and I build timber surfboards and sell timber surfboard supplies in Burleigh Heads on the Gold Coast utilising a number of methods but this is our first printed template build. The template was designed on a CAD program specifically for surfboards and was based on a board that I ride regularly and know to be a simple design for a wooden build. It's a swallow tailed 'fish' and dimensions are 5'10" x 21" x 2 7/8".

    The first step was to cut out the frame. This was achieved by using a spray adhesive to stick the template to the paulownia panel (1820 x 580 x 6mm), then each piece was cut out with a sharp box-knife.

    20130125_113752.jpg

    Next is the rocker bench (profile jig). Using 12mm ply for the sides and 42 x 19mm FJ pine for cross-members, the stringer of the frame is traced onto the ply and marks are made at each interval of the frames ribs. The marked section is then cut out with a jigsaw.

    IMG_2991 copy.jpg IMG_2999 copy.jpg

    The cross-members are then fixed on the marks...

    IMG_3012 copy.jpeg

    And once the cross-members are fixed the plan shape is marked on a thin sheet of MDF and fixed to the jig to prevent bruising the frame/hull skin.

    20130125_123447.jpg


    www.paulowniatimbersales.com.au

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  3. #2
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    May 2012
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    Burleigh, Gold Coast
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    Default

    Once the rocker jig is assembled we build our frame, making sure that all the tabs on the ribs fit nice and snugly in to their respective slots..

    20130125_090322.jpg

    Now for the frame assembly..

    IMG_0882.jpg

    ..held together with our friend masking tape.

    20130125_141323.jpg 20130125_142320.jpg

    and a zip-tie to hold the nose together.

    20130125_122638.jpg 20130125_122857.jpg 20130125_123551.jpg

    www.paulowniatimbersales.com.au

  4. #3
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    May 2012
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    Once that's together it's time to start preparing the hull for laminating.
    We mark the template onto the panel (deck and hull panels are 1820 x 580 x 5mm) and cut it out using a box knife. Paulownia is particularly easy to knife and it's much more accurate than using a bandsaw or jigsaw.

    1.jpg 2.jpg

    Once it's cut out we lay some 4oz cloth (fibreglass) onto the hull 'skin' and cut it around the shape to fit, followed by a laminating coat of epoxy.

    3.jpg epoxy mix.jpg IMG_0984.jpg

    After this we buttered the bottom of the frame with a thickened epoxy mix making sure to get every bit.

    IMG_0993.jpg IMG_0996.jpg IMG_0999.jpg

    Next we lay the hull onto to rocker bench and line the tail and the nose of the frame with the center line of the skin and lower it into its place, followed by some clamping where needed.

    IMG_1008.jpg IMG_1011.jpg IMG_1012.jpg 20130130_150417.jpg

    www.paulowniatimbersales.com.au

  5. #4
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    Once the frame is stuck down we glue some blocks into the frame for fins, ventilation, a leash plug and the tail.

    We started with the tail block so we marked a line from the apex of the swallow to the points of the tail and mitred some paulownia on the angle we marked, taped and fixed it together with epoxy

    20130131_094246.jpg 20130131_102307.jpg 20130131_111554.jpg 20130131_111626.jpg

    While the tail set to dry we marked the area in which our fins will sit, then cut blocks to fit...

    20130131_104324.jpg 20130131_142511.jpg

    We cut the shape of the tail block out and using some thickened epoxy we glued it in place, along with the fin blocks.

    20130131_144028.jpg 20130131_145454.jpg

    Once the epoxy was set we carefully shaped the fin blocks down to match the curve of the frame, measured and then recorded their positioning (so we dont miss the block once its all covered up).

    20130201_102557.jpg 20130205_084235.jpg 20130205_084322.jpg 20130205_084343.jpg

    www.paulowniatimbersales.com.au

  6. #5
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    This isn't the printed frame build, but we forgot to take a photo of the ventilation system (although it is the same process). This is to allow the board to 'breathe' when its not in use.

    So we installed two blocks about 60 x 20mm and drilled a vertical hole where the vent will sit, and another hole horizontally intersecting the vertical hole which we filled with a thickened epoxy in order to repeat the process with a smaller drill bit.

    vent.jpg

    Once that's all finished we cut out the deck plan and cut a hole in the deck skin in the position that our vent would sit, taped up the top side of the deck over the hole and glued in the vent.

    20130204_084522.jpg 20130204_095359.jpg

    End result.

    20130204_150147.jpg 20130204_150230.jpg

    Once the vent is in the deck skin we can laminate the deck to the rest of the board.

  7. #6
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    Default

    A very interesting read.

  8. #7
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    Default

    From this point it gets exciting. It all starts coming together and looking like a surfboard, so it's time to fix the deck skin to the frame.

    After the vent in the skin is cleaned up we laminated a layer of cloth (the same as we did with the hull) to the underside of the deck..

    20130205_083139.jpg IMG_0980.jpg

    Whilst repeating the process of buttering up the frame with a thickened epoxy mix..

    IMG_1155.jpg IMG_1158.jpg

    Then we buttered the vent itself carefully lined it up with it's respective hole and lowered it into position, ready for clamping.

    IMG_1160.jpg IMG_0216.jpg

    We used flexible battens over each rib to cover a larger area with pressure, clamping right at the T-intersection of each rib and rail, although if the frame is cut out and assembled neatly this many clamps isn't imperative.
    We just love clamps.

    www.paulowniatimbersales.com.au

  9. #8
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    May 2012
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    Burleigh, Gold Coast
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    Default

    Now we have a square-railed structure looking somewhat like a surfboard, we're ready to start laminating rail strips to give the rails some meat to shape into.

    We used a template to cut each strip to fit to the rails. To make the template we put the board in a shaping stand, cut a strip of thin MDF about 100mm wide by the length of the board (plus 100mm added to nose and tail to make it easier to bend) and taped it to one side of the board. Then roughly marked the profile of the rail (adding about 5mm for more shaping area) and cut it out with the bandsaw.

    Once the template was cleaned up we cut out the rails - 2 x Qld Cedar and 8 x Paulownia, all @ 4mm.

    To laminate the rails we used a steam iron from Kmart to make the bend easier towards the nose.

    20130212_111607.jpg 20130212_111622.jpg

    While the iron is steaming away I buttered up the rail with polyurethane glue.

    20130207_095947.jpg

    Next we line up the nose and tail of the board with the nose and tail of the rail, place it down and start taping it up.

    20130206_101928.jpg 20130206_155717 (1).jpg

    Taping the nose down first works the best as the timber had been steaming at the nose for about 5 minutes and still retains its flexibility. Once that process was repeated for each rail the board is ready for cleaning up and shaping.

    www.paulowniatimbersales.com

  10. #9
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    Now that the rails are down we need to clean off the glue to make an easier surface to shape.

    We removed the tape holding the rails down during glue drying and set the board up on a couple of padded saw stools. Then we take to the rails with a planer. Keeping the 'roll' of the deck in mind, we plane at the angle of which we estimate that the deck would continue curving. This is mainly to avoid ending up with box-like rails.

    flush rails2.jpg

    Once the rails ar fairly clean (+/- 1-2mm) we finish it off with the belt sander.

    20130207_153318.jpg flush rails 3.jpg 20130207_153520.jpg

    A hand plane is sufficient to take off the edges we need to take off to roughly round the rails to where we want them and to finish the curve off we used a length of 60 grit sandpaper with a few layers of our best friend masking tape on the underside of it for some strength.

    20130213_113556.jpg 20130213_113612.jpg


    www.paulowniatimbersales.com

  11. #10
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    Aug 2013
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    Portugal
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    Default Templates

    Great work!
    I'm tempted to try it myself. Any chance on providing the plans?
    Cheers,
    John

  12. #11
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    Default

    Great post! Thanks for that very informative and interesting thread.
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  13. #12
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    Great work. Now all I need is the plans? Oh. And the round tuit.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  14. #13
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    What a fantastic write up well done.
    Could u explain the sand paper masking tape idea is that just to stiffen the sand paper a little bit ?

  15. #14
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    Thank you all for the positive comments it's very nice to see there are so many people interested in building their own surfcraft. We as a whole rely too much on people pumping out plastic goods when they can be fabricated in the comfort of your own shed by your own hands.

    Regarding the plans, go to the link at the bottom of each thread. We supply plans and timber (even hardware), but This post was not for advertising purpose, i just noticed that there was a gap in information here on wooden surfboards.

    I just want to spread the stoke! Yew!! If you have any other questions, treetosea and swaylocks are both very active forums with alot of experienced brains to pick.

    Ill upload a longboard build when i have all of the WIP photos sorted

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Graintrain View Post
    Ill upload a longboard build when i have all of the WIP photos sorted
    Thanks. That would be great.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

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