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10th September 2017, 09:30 PM #1Senior Member
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My first proper crack at a cutting board.
Hi guys,
My wife accuses me of hoarding wood, and making a lot of sawdust, with nothing to show for it.. So i've followed through on making a few things around the house, and a couple of cutting boards.
Previous boards I made were glue-up tests using pine and ash offcuts, and one which was a solid piece of teak (500x300x20mm) that I dressed, shaped and sanded.
This one is my first proper attempt... still a long-grain board, but i'll get a couple of these done before I try an end-grain.
Finished Size: 570x300x35mm
Wood: Spotted Gum (outer rails), White Ash, Mountain Ash, Jarrah, Mountain ash (centre strip)
Sanded to: 600 grit
Finishes with: White mineral oil (Ikea)
I kept a few of the pieces a bit longer so they were sacrificed to the snipe monster that is the bench-top thicknesser... It worked a treat too. I was a little worried about the Carbatec thicknesser getting through a full width hardwood board, but it did it well. I had some tear-out, but the cutters are due for replacement, so some new ones would fix that up.
The Ikea mineral oil worked a treat, and it's cheap. $8/500mL and a little goes a long way!
Love to get some feedback from you all.
IMG_6239.jpgIMG_6238.jpgIMG_6287.jpgIMG_6290.jpgIMG_6291.JPGDSC_9184.jpgDSC_9185.jpgDSC_9131.jpg
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10th September 2017 09:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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10th September 2017, 10:33 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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- Aug 2013
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- Montmorency Victoria
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Very attractive woods and colour layout
Is the mineral oil Ikea's food safe coating?
Regards
Rob
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10th September 2017, 10:41 PM #3Senior Member
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Hi rob,
Thanks for the feedback, it's amazing what some throwaway wood can look like when put to good use.
The IKEA oil is the one they sell for cutting board care.
SKYDD Wood treatment oil, indoor use - IKEA
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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10th September 2017, 11:19 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2014
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- Kew, Vic
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Hi Wynterplace,
Great board and great photography! I like long grain boards.
Brian
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11th September 2017, 09:58 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2013
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- Sydney
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Great looking board. And love the pics with the spread on it.
i just glue a sacrificial bit of pine 42x19 that's knocking around to kill the snipe as it saves wasting good timber.
Your only 1 step away from an end grain. No practice required. just make another one exactly as you did this time but a bit longer then just slice across the board and then flip them up, or 90deg, done end grain, it might end up a bit shorter depending on how thick you want the board. Your pattern will remain, which is a great design by the way. I found to keep things square that I clamped a right angle to the bench then set the pieces accordingly. Also don't forget a clamp or 2 over the top to keep level as end grain doesn't take too kindly to thicknessers or it will take a month of Sunday's through the drum sander.
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11th September 2017, 11:44 AM #6Senior Member
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Drum sander?!? I wish... I've got a rail/slide jig made up for a plunge router to face off the end-grain when I do make one up. And then it's hand finishing with the orbital.
I've got a heap of what I think is messmate that i'm considering using for an end-grain board (pic below). It's got a lot of nice marks that are black stains... I'm not sure if they're an issue for a cutting board though. Anyone got any thoughts? Am I wrong in what I think the timber is?
I ran the boards through my bandsaw and then planed them down a bit to remove the checking, once all planed and squared I should have about 20+ linear metres @ 30x30mm
IMG_6241.jpgIMG_6240.jpg
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11th September 2017, 11:16 PM #7Taking a break
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Looks like Messmate to me (possibly maybe Blackbutt, but I don't think so). Don't worry about the black flecks, it's normal and part of the timber.
I'd advise getting a spiral bit, rather than a straight bit, for use with your jig; you'll get more of a slicing action at the tip, as opposed to a scraping action, which will leave you with a nicer finish and less sanding work.
Also, and this might sound counter-intuitive, don't go too slowly; you'll burn up the tip of the bit with all the extra heat. It's better to take more shallow (1-2mm) quick-ish passes than one heavy slow pass. Aim for 3-5 m/min (50-70mm/sec if that's easier)
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12th September 2017, 04:18 AM #8Senior Member
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- May 2016
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- Melbourne
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- 193
That board looks brilliant Love the contrasts in the colours, timber looks like messmate or vic hardwood but it's all the same stuff really.
I have a drum sander you can use if you're keen PM me I'm in the eastern suburbs.
Joel
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12th September 2017, 07:55 AM #9Senior Member
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Thanks for the offer JMS, when I do an end-grain i'll be in touch!
I don't suppose you have a jointer too? Those messmate sticks i've cut down are parallelograms (opposing sides are parallel, but no sides are perpendicular), it looks like my bandsaw table wan't quite level when I ripped them down. So they're not really useable for anything until I can get them squared up.
More than happy to pay in beer currency. I'm also eastside (Bonbeach) and work in Oakleigh.
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12th September 2017, 03:41 PM #10
That's a nicely made and finished board. I've just had lunch but it makes me hungry looking at the last photo, great presentation.
Dallas
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13th September 2017, 04:42 AM #11Senior Member
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- May 2016
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- Melbourne
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- 193
Sure do you can joint them and finish up on thicknesser ..
Let me know when ur ready. I'm in Croydon
Joel
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13th September 2017, 09:01 AM #12
Well done on the cutting board.
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