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  1. #16
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    Thanks Master splinter. After experimenting on the offcuts, I've decided to plug the holes only. The cracks just keep on absorbing more and more epoxy, even though it's taped underneath I just couldnt manage to fill them. Meanwhile the surface of the timber ends up with a smeared mess. The cracks are minimal anyway. I had a good play with the iron oxide pigments too. Looks like 70% black 30% red is about the right mixture for a nice colour.

    I cant believe I originally thought I'd knock this table up in two weekends

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  3. #17
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    *Update*

    Here it is!

    image.jpg
    image.jpg

    After applying 7th coat of furniture oil
    image.jpg

    The finish is a bit rougher than I expected, it's like the bees wax in the oil has built up. In some spots it's white. And if you rub your fingernails on it it sort of scrapes off. Here's a close-up.

    image.jpg
    Can anything be done to improve that?

    The missus said she would have preferred the holes left unfilled. Oh well I prefer it how it is. Also the table wobbles bit side to side if you bump it hard, I had no idea 10mm thick steel would have so much flex! One day I might put a 5mm thick cross bar a third of the way down the legs to make it more rigid, but it'll do for now.

    Thanks again for all of your tips and suggestions.

  4. #18
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    What, exactly, was your finishing process?

  5. #19
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    After sanding the top to 400 I applied one coat per day with a paintbrush.

    For the first three coats it was applied, then I waited 20 - 30 mins, and gave it a gentle wipe to smooth it out with a cloth.

    After that wiping it didnt work as well and started to streak with the white waxy stuff so i just let it dry on its own.

  6. #20
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    One coat of what?

  7. #21
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    Organoil Furniture Oil

  8. #22
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    Ahhhhh....Organoil is very finicky about procedure, especially the apply/wait a few hours - and then...not a gentle wipe, but burnish the hell out of it steps. It's tung oil based. What is basically happening is that the oil layers aren't getting enough heat to oxidise and polymerise, as you need to give it a good working. Have a look at the datasheets on the organoil site, then have a look here: http://www.sanding.damnfinefurniture.com/

  9. #23
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    I am thinking that the legs are 10mm steel and that is why it wobbles. My thoughts are to put steel triangles on all four internal corners attaching the leg to the top it might improve and stop the wobbles. It is a bit a theory as I have not done this but thinking on the same line of diagonal bracing.

    The triangles could be a bit of shelf support that you get from any hardware store. Something that is small enough not to be seen from above and large enough to give the support needed.

    You have done very well on getting this far. Are you thinking of the next project?

  10. #24
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    MasterSplinter - Would you suggest that I sand it back a bit, then re-apply coats of oil and burnish the hell out of it, or just burnish it on my next coats? Again I reiterate that I'm not too fussed about it's finish at the moment. Maybe I'll flip it over one day and experiment on the under side.

    Christos - Well you see my original plan was to have all of the steel 5mm thick. I welded together the first leg piece and it was wobbling like jelly! So change of plan, I doubled the thickness of the vertical pieces to 10mm, left the horizontals at 5mm and that made it a lot more rigid.. The flex is definitely occurring in the horizontal lengths. When I secured the timber top I think the weight accentuated it a bit more. As a result of the plan change I now have 4 spare 5mm x 130mm x 705mm pieces that I can use to make braces. So from the sketch below, you're thinking like the green bars? I was thinking more the red - I'm open to suggestions though. To be honest I'll probably wait until October when the father in law comes to visit from interstate (he's a retired carpenter) to get his 2 bobs worth as well.

    Untitled.png

    I am indeed thinking of my next project. I would love to make a dining room table, but that might be a bit ambitious as I probably wouldn't want to put steel legs on an indoor table.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smasher View Post
    MasterSplinter - Would you suggest that I sand it back a bit, then re-apply coats of oil and burnish the hell out of it, or just burnish it on my next coats? Again I reiterate that I'm not too fussed about it's finish at the moment. Maybe I'll flip it over one day and experiment on the under side.

    Christos - Well you see my original plan was to have all of the steel 5mm thick. I welded together the first leg piece and it was wobbling like jelly! So change of plan, I doubled the thickness of the vertical pieces to 10mm, left the horizontals at 5mm and that made it a lot more rigid.. The flex is definitely occurring in the horizontal lengths. When I secured the timber top I think the weight accentuated it a bit more. As a result of the plan change I now have 4 spare 5mm x 130mm x 705mm pieces that I can use to make braces. So from the sketch below, you're thinking like the green bars? I was thinking more the red - I'm open to suggestions though. To be honest I'll probably wait until October when the father in law comes to visit from interstate (he's a retired carpenter) to get his 2 bobs worth as well.

    Untitled.png

    I am indeed thinking of my next project. I would love to make a dining room table, but that might be a bit ambitious as I probably wouldn't want to put steel legs on an indoor table.
    G'Day Smash,
    What about having the green angle brace meeting the red horizontal brace to lock it all together.....
    The 2 black sides of the brace triangle should be equal length....
    I'm not to sure about if all as the sleepers will be heavy and as you've found out 5mm steel bar is a little light.....
    Just my thoughts..... cheers crowie

  12. #26
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    Yes - light sand and burnish.

  13. #27
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    I was thinking green.

    You might want to send this link to your father in-law as he will be able to read the thread just not be able to see the photos if he is not registered.

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