Thread: Raised Panels - How do you do them??

Doing them with a table saw is a possibility but you will need to clean the result up a lot by planing & sanding. Horizontal bits are the way to go IF you have a variable speed router. If you use a large diameter router bit in a full speed router it could spit out the carbide tips with dire consequences for any parts of your anatomy that get in the way. If your router table doesn't have a sliding table section you will need to use a jig to stabilise your panel (especially when cutting end grain). If you go with a vertical bit (these have a limited range of profiles) then be sure to fit a very stable, high auxilliary fence.

Have fun, be safe,

Mick

It also depends on the size of the opening of the base of your router and also the size of the hole in the insert. A lot of the horizontal bits are quite wide and may not fit through the insert/base.
Also, if cutting them with a table saw, you need to be able to tilt the blade - something that's not possible with a Triton. Although I guess you could use the bevel side of the fence.

Ashley,in the times I've done panels with vertical bits I have always employed a 12"(300mm) fence which provides stability across the width of the panel.
Tho with vertical panel bits shallow passes are necessary to arrive at the final cut..and achieved by aligning the fence in a series of movements towards the bit until full profile is arrived at.

Never tried the saw technique but have seen the articles pertaining to it and would be awkward to do on your Triton ..I guess.Same with the bandsaw in a jig.
Fielded panels were often done with handplanes in the past but this does require some tolerance as the going may be slow ...depending on what pleasure or not you may derive from persuing such a task.
These days the vertical bit offers a quick and easy way to get the profile you want providing you follow all the safety guidelines in carrying out the task.
Horizontal bits require a variable Speed router(as Mick has stated) because of the width of the bits and the need to keep the speed down within a range of around 12,000rpm for real wide bits.Special care is needed by cutting end grain first and then sides in a series of cuts.
Cheers...good luck in your endeavours.

Ashley,

Some years back, before I got my raised panel bits, I made the jig shown below to do raised panels on the router table using a straight bit. This works quite well and is only limited by the length of the bit. I do think proper bits are the go but they are not cheap so I thought I would give you another option.

You may be interested in the following tip/procedure that i have been using for a number of years.
It is difficult to hand sand the raised profile if it is anything but staight, e.g an ogee pattern, particularly on the cross grain so I make a sanding block with the correct profile and then use papers with contact adhesive (Porter Cable rolls work out well).
To create the block requires you to use a mould. Using a peice of scrap create an extra peice of the moulding, cut to the required size ( The Porter Cable rolls are 50 mm wide), surround with peices of scrap to create the walls of your mould and clamp in place. Spray with WD40 as a release agent. Fill with automotive light weight body filler and in about 30 minutes you will have your sanding block. Trim while still warm (reaction still going on) as it will be nice and easy. I have found that this way I can keep nice crisp edges to the raised panel. I use the same technique for any moulding profile I need to sand and keep the blocks for "next time"
Hope I am not teaching grandmothers about the treatment of eggs, but I have found this to be very useful in a number of projects.
Jacko

Can anybody tell me if it's possible to make curved raised panels with a vertical panel raising bit? Has anyone ever come up with some sort of jig to do this, or is it only possible with a horizontal panel raising bit?

Regards
Geoff