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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Bowral, NSW, Australia
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    Steve,

    Also remeber it kicks. Know a guy who bolted a long mantle piece into his wall so that it wouldn't kick. Guess what? Cracked wall.

    Don't know if you are anywhere near Corryong Vic. There is a supplier there who will sell you kiln dried red gum. Looks great too.

    Graham

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Portland Vic. Australia.
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    71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carry Pine View Post
    Steve,

    Also remeber it kicks. Know a guy who bolted a long mantle piece into his wall so that it wouldn't kick. Guess what? Cracked wall.

    Don't know if you are anywhere near Corryong Vic. There is a supplier there who will sell you kiln dried red gum. Looks great too.

    Graham
    I know what you mean. When you say "Kick" I assume you mean bend? I went out and checked it out today and the boards that were nice and flat when I cut them , are now bent along the length by about 3mm along the 900 mm length.
    If I leave them for a few weeks and try to straighten them with the jointer is the same thing going to happen? I was hoping to make a jewelery box , but not if it keeps doing this. Maybe they are firewood after all.
    The hurrier I go, the behinder I get.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    595

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    3mm bend on a 900mm length is not bad. But when you have thicknessed the board to your jewellry box dimension it could be a good idea to lop off the lengths, plus a bit spare, and the gradual curve in the board might not be noticeable along the shorter length. To get a perfectly straight 900mm board you might have to do a lot of planing.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Bowral, NSW, Australia
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    yes, what fencepost said.

    My pieces are only 400-450 long and i cut them to about 15-18mm thick using the Triton and the SCM saw- but that's another story.
    I leave then for a a few weeks and then resaw them. The difference if there is any over a short distance is negligible.
    Your main problem is going to come when you seal them with whatever. Just about everything will darken the red gum and you will loose the beautiful colour.
    If you are going to use joints , glue them with 2 part epoxy for strength and don't trust a butt joint or a simple mitre to hold.
    You should be fine making jewelry boxes out of it.

    Graham

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Portland Vic. Australia.
    Age
    71
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    289

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    Thanks for the replies. I have cut them to rough length and width , I will let them sit for a week or so then run them across the jointer then through the thicknesser and see what happens.
    The plan is to dovetail the box , is this going to be strong enough?
    The hurrier I go, the behinder I get.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Kalamunda, WA
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    52
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    1,989

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    Quote Originally Posted by gjnairn View Post
    Now in WA there is a Timber I know as Marri but everyone over here calls it Red Gum for some reason. I that is something like what I know red gum is so why in WA do people know a pale wood with sap viens in as Red Gum.
    Marri or Eucalyptus calophilla is commonly called Red Gum in WA because of the Red Sap it weeps out of cuts and breaks.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevenp View Post
    The plan is to dovetail the box , is this going to be strong enough?
    yes. remember to glue.

    Did you have any holes that you need to fill? With the box i made i left the holes there rather than fill them with a clear resin.

    Graham

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    11,464

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carry Pine View Post
    Your main problem is going to come when you seal them with whatever. Just about everything will darken the red gum and you will loose the beautiful colour.

    Graham
    The Water based poly finishes are water clear and don't darken redgum very much do the natural timber colour is more or less maintained.
    I use Cabots clear floor finish which is a nice hard to scratch finish
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

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