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Thread: Red Gum table joinery question
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15th December 2015, 11:47 AM #1Novice
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Red Gum table joinery question
Hi,
I'd like to make a coffee table out of one of my red gum slabs like this http://arcadianconcepts.com.au/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/MarriSlabCascadeCoffeeTable4.jpg
Looking for ideas on how to join the sides to the top. Thinking wooden pegs and a beam underneath? Maybe metal pegs set into the sides, bent 90 degrees then inserted into the top?
Cheers!
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15th December 2015 11:47 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th December 2015, 11:54 AM #2Woodworking mechanic
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Don't know why your link doesn't work so here it is again
http://arcadianconcepts.com.au/wordp...ffeeTable4.jpg
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15th December 2015, 09:50 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Leony,
Biscuits to locate and align and good glue should be all you need for this sort of a job.
Regards Rod.Rod Gilbert.
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15th December 2015, 10:23 PM #4
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15th December 2015, 10:41 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Definitely,biscuits,dowels,loose tenons,dominoes,take your pick.
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16th December 2015, 05:38 PM #6
on the basis that your slab is 50 to 60mm thick (the table you linked to appears to be about 80-90mm thick), I suggest you use a 12mm thick plywood spline along about 80-90% of the length of the mitre. Use quality ply for the spline, not CD or construction grade.
The spline should be located towards the inside of the joint -- say 20mm from the inside corner and for a 50mm thick slab would be about 80-90mm wide.
However, I strongly advise that you do a full size cross section drawing of the joint to get the dimensions of the spline and depth of the slot correct.
once your slab is cleaned up, dimensioned and the 45° mitre cut, the slot can be cut with a router, guided by a fence. I suggest you use a solid carbide spiral up-cut bit slightly narrower than your ply is thick. two passes should get you a slot that is just the right width.
making the spline from the same material as the slab is the best option -- but producing a long, narrow, thin board that is all cross grain can represent a significant challenge in a home shop.
a ply spline with an "expansion" break every 100mm is much easierLast edited by ian; 17th December 2015 at 03:14 AM. Reason: added last parragraph
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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16th December 2015, 07:56 PM #7
spline, dominos or biscuits apart, I personally would make up a few triangular gluing blocks and set them under the table, keeping in the same direction of grain, that
they would be far enough in to be well out of sight. That'd take a lot of racking strain off the mitre joint.
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29th December 2015, 01:31 PM #8Novice
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Sorry for the late response, been quite busy. Thanks for all of the ideas! Ian, the ply spline sounds like a great idea, think I'll go that route & maybe 2 triangular blocks at each end under the table routed in about 10mm deep
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29th December 2015, 02:18 PM #9
glue blocks should be unnecessary.
Depending on the thickness of your slab, you may be able to include two splines in each joint.
also, if you can make the spline out of cross grain Red Gum, even better.
If you use ply, remember to "break" the ply every 100mm or so to allow the Red Gum to expand and contract.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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31st December 2015, 03:24 PM #10
Hi Leonv
I know this table well. The table in the photo is made from Marri. Beautiful timber. When I made mine I used Jarrah for my splines with an expansion break every 100mm.
I hope it turns out well.
Daryl
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6th January 2016, 08:51 PM #11Novice
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Hope the link works. Would a spline this size be ok? I'm worried about the edge snapping off.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1xlzkzi6mz...pline.pdf?dl=0
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7th January 2016, 04:36 AM #12
I would suggest something closer to this
the pocket for the spline should extend to within 8 - 10 mm of the finished surface of the table, and be located close to the inside edge of the mitre
The dimensions are a range as the critical one is the depth of the pocket -- it'll be easier aiming for an whole number rather than decimal dimension for the slotregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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7th January 2016, 10:16 AM #13Novice
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I was scared to have the pocket for the spline to close to the finished surface, thinking it may crack eventually with the stress of the joint.
I guess it should be ok since the pocket/spline will only be 80% of the length of the mitre & not all the way across thru the edge of the slab.
If the spline is 10mm, route a 12mm pocket? I was going to use a 12mm spline in a 12mm pocket. Would the ply expand & cause stress at the joint?
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7th January 2016, 04:00 PM #14
if the ply is 10mm thick -- based on actual measurement of the ply thickness -- rout a 10mm slot
if the ply is less than 10mm -- which could happen if 3/8" ply is being sold as 10mm -- rout a correspondingly narrower slot.
if the dry fit is too tight, sand a smidgen off the face of the ply
you want a tight fit like a well made mortice and tenonregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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7th January 2016, 05:10 PM #15Novice
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Oh ok, I miss read your diagram.
Thank you so much for the information Ian, has been greatly appreciated!!
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