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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Default Removing glued wood dowels

    I joined a bedhead to its bed posts using wooden dowels. however i realised afterwards that i put the posts on the wrong way . c(ommon sense aint so common anymore : ((( ... i put a couple globs of glue down in the holes where the dowels were to b inserted... and hand pressed them together. is there any way i can separate the two ? that is with minimal damage to the bedhead or posts. please help!! that bed cost my mother a couplegrand... n she'll kill me!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Port Pirie SA
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    There's no simple way without any damage... you may be able to cut with a thin kerf saw between the post's and the headboard?
    How are the side rails attached to the post's, you may need to shift them over a bit to compensate for the saw cut...
    ....................................................................

  4. #3
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    What sort of glue did you use?

    If animal hide then hot water should do the trick.

    If PVA, then you might get away with soaking the joint in water. Especially if you've only joined it with hand pressure.

    Good luck

  5. #4
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    Hot water may be a bit severe on any surface finish, depending on what it is. Hide glue is easily neutered if you can inject vinegar into the joint.

    Unless you used hide glue over old hide glue, the chances are that what you used hasn't stuck very well to what was in there before (I'm assuming this is a repair job because the dowels have let go?).
    If you used PVA glue, it's thermoplastic, so if you can warm it up to somewhere between 60 and 80 (depends on which PVA) it should soften enough to pull apart. Just leaving it out in the sun on a hot day will work for your average white glue. Hair dryers can work on a small object - paint guns are more potent, but a bit tough on any finish you want to preserve.

    Sawing the dowels through might be your best bet - if you didn't clamp the posts after re-glueing, chances are you have the beginnings of a gap that a very thin saw could get into and do minimal damage as you cut the dowl off. You might be advised to find someone with a few of the right implements and some experience, for that operation, because you will also ned to drill out the old dowel bits accurately.

    Since it's the head end, maybe you could just switch the rail attachments round (depending what type they are) and hide the scars against the wall?

    Welcome to the world of woodworking stuff-ups. An old friend used to say "the man wot never made a mistake never made anything", so you're on your way!

    Cheers,
    IW

  6. #5
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    Default

    If its PVA or yellow glue, you can also use vinegar if you can get it into the glue, but test it where it won't be seen first, as it may colour the wood. Harry72's suggestion re the thin kerf saw may be the easiest.
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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    trinidad
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    Default Re: Removing wood dowels

    Very grateful to ur responses. let me start from the top.
    HARRY72: cutting close to the end of the bedhead with the saw is doable, only challenge may be bending the side rails to accomodate for the shorter width of the bedhead.SIde rails mount to the posts via two 25mm M6 bolts per post. Really wish i had a camera so i cud post the pics up here.

  8. #7
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    trinidad
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    CRAIGB: The glue bottle doesnt have much detail on it, its called EVO-STIK and its manufactured in Stafford,UK. its a white wood glue with a high scent, suspect its the PVA kind. it may as well have been clamped because in addition to the dowels, two M6 bolts fasten the posts to the bedhead.
    IANW: Its not actually a repair job, mom bought the bed last weekend and i assembled it day before last insisting that there was no need to hire ppl to install it, told her it shouldnt be too hard. About soakin it in hot water, that may be interesting to do, each joint is abt 80cm long with three dowels spread across it , so i may need a trough of water of some sort. I will try the blow dryer though n see how that works.
    Also i heard that ACETONE or just plain nail-polish remover should dissolve or weaken the polymers of the glue, ANYONE ever heard of this or may have tried it out???
    Thanks alot guys, you've already been more than helpful. and not to mention ALOT friendlier and willing to help than those guys in the States.

  9. #8
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    Nov 2004
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    Afraid the Acetone will aboslutely kill most finishes... dont!
    The saw's kerf will only be 1-2mm each side, M6 bolts... there are brass inserts in the post's yes? Whats inbetween the bed side rails, slats or a solid sheet of chip/ply board? Can it/they be shortened/shaved on one/both sides?
    Whats the head board made from solid wood or veneered chip/mdf? It may be easier to dig out the dowels from behind then glue in some new wood and redrill for new dowels...

    Some pictures may be of some help for advice from us... it pay's to read instuctions on new products eh!
    ....................................................................

  10. #9
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    Dec 2005
    Location
    trinidad
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    HARRY72: Yea there are brass inserts on the posts for the M6 to bolt onto! There ARE wood slats but there is an iron beam joining the end of each side rail as well as a double reinforced beam that bolts on tothe middle of each siderail (the wood slats fit into slots in these cross members). HEad board n posts are made from veneered chipboard. And note on the instructions, they were actually very vague and even inaccurate: they came on PHOTOCOPIED paper. But i do take full responsibility bcuz all it needed was some COMMON SENSE on my part. : ( in the end i had to use a photo of the bed in a newspaper to finally see how it shud look.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    trinidad
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    What i did in the end for reference and closure to any who may read this... or have a similar problem, was this...
    I unbolted everything... managed to create a small spacebetween the headboard n post by prizing it with my hands controllingly. Made two small wood wedges out of soft wood i had lying arnd the house, capitalized on that lil bugger of a crack n worked my way towards the dowels which were actually lifted outta the holes without ripping pieces of the motherwood out as i tapped the wedges in. I suspect this may be because the joint wasnt really clamped and the glue hasnt really had the time to set; its been fours days now i believe.
    Much thanks to everyone again!!! learnt alot from this thread, hopefully i dont screw up any more of the woman's furniture

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
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    610

    Default

    At least i can cross EVO-STIK of my glue to buy list if it came apart that easy

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