Thread: Removing rust from

Thanks for that link John! I'll have a squiz at my machine and look at making that jig. guess after all this work I should put more effort in to maintenance, whether in storage or not!

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I had some 240 paper kicking about and a bit of spare time this afternoon. The fence took some persuasion to move.. after some spraying and wiggling it moves freely now. I've started on the outfeed table and got to this point. Its nice and smooth at the moment but though I should stop and ask.. should I be sanding back to bare/shiny metal with 240, and then going up in finer grits? Atm its like a slightly rusty, slightly black surface.

Plot twist - I actually thought this was a Leda jointer but when I pulled the tarp right off Its actually a hafco. My bad!

You need to get rid of the rust otherwise the tables will be very grippy and they need to be slick so the timber slides very easily.

The tops of my machines have gone a gray blue so it does not have to be shiny silver but all the rust needs to be gone.
If the wet and dry is still making brown sludge then there is still a bit to go. If the gunk is black and you have had enough then you can stop.
Regards
John

It certainly is some scrubbing, but I don't mind! It just looked like it was painted black so I thought I should double check. So I will carry on with the 240 until its nice and shiny all over, and then work my way up in grits. Slightly off topic, but before I sharpen the blades, because I am using recycled timber from a shed, would I be best to plane off a small amount to remove any dirt/expose any nails that I may have missed? Rather than ruin a freshly sharpened set of blades?

Recycled timber you say, is any of it painted?

The reason son for asking is that painted timber will take your sharp blades to dull blades in a very short period of time. Do remove any paint/dirt/nails beforehand.

Originally Posted by Bob38S

Recycled timber you say, is any of it painted?

The reason son for asking is that painted timber will take your sharp blades to dull blades in a very short period of time. Do remove any paint/dirt/nails beforehand.

Hey bob,

No nothing painted. Just framing timbers and some floor boards. There's a lot of nails, I'm just worried about finding a nail that the head has broken off from after I start machining the timber. I don't have one of those fancy metal finding gadgets. Cheers for the heads up on the paint though, I didn't know about that!


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Originally Posted by Damon90

I don't have one of those fancy metal finding gadgets.

If you have one of the new rare earth magnets hang it on a long piece of thread and move the timber past it slowly as close as you can. If there is any magnetic material in the wood such as a nail it will cause the magnet to swing towards the nail.

Looking better.
I would get the blades sharpend too if I was me.

If the blades are anything like the rest of the machine they might be pitted beyond recovery. Carbitool sells 3mm HSS knife steel for about $3 per inch

For nasty looking recycled timber I first go over it with an electric hand plane to clean up. The TC blades last ages and are not expensive to replace if you find a surprise. A strong magnet on a string is perhaps as good as a metal detector at finding hidden nails. Hidden nails and screws are a royal pain in the @&$e. In my case it has been more bandsaw blades than planer blades that I get caught with. Just hate it when I see those sparks.
Regards
John

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Not quite perfect but a lot better! I would imagine good enough to use? Obviously after I finish the I feed side. This has just been a wet n dry sandpaper 240 up to 800 w kero & wd40. I will need to get some wax for the table now

Looks like I don't need to say anything, coming along very nicely.