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  1. #31
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    Jan 2014
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    Melbourne
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    IMG_8188.jpgIMG_8189.jpg
    Here we are in almost all its glory. I still have the fence to tackle but I was pretty tired of sanding for today. I'm drenched in wd40 lol. Popped in to see Roy at "Get Woodworking" in Newport, he was great. Showed him the knives/blades/cutters (whichever USB the appropriate term) and he said they were plenty sharp. Purchased this little moving dolly which is pretty handy, as well as a magnetic setting tool for the (insert relevant word from above here). All that will be left is the cleanup of any bolts and handles etc. aswell as the cutter block. Should I remove this? Or just try and get it with a wire wheel and then sand it?
    Thanks for all the advice all, I'm pretty happy with the way this is coming along. Excited to start using it after all this time.
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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Melbourne
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    Oh and I almost forgot! He also hooked me up with some silbergleit to coat the shiny new surfaces!

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

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    You have done really well.

    For the cutter block I don't think it would be easy to remove so I would clean up as best as I could. The blades once reinstalled will be higher then the block thus the block will not be touching the wood.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    304

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    Well done
    If you adjust the in feed & outfeed tables down the gap between the table will widen giving more access to the cutter block/drum (whatever it is called).

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Port Sorell, Tasmania
    Posts
    592

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    My stud finder has a metal option on it and that is good at picking up broken nails in used timber. I run it over any used timber before machining.
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
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    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by tony_A View Post
    My stud finder has a metal option on it and that is good at picking up broken nails in used timber. I run it over any used timber before machining.
    That's a great idea. I actually have a Bosch detector which was pretty expensive and supposed to be able to find metal pipes in walls. I'll give that a try. When I was at the shop I saw a Carbatec metal detector and it was only about $70. I expected them to be more. I'll probably pick one up next week anyhow


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
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    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete57 View Post
    Well done
    If you adjust the in feed & outfeed tables down the gap between the table will widen giving more access to the cutter block/drum (whatever it is called).
    Cheers.. thankfully only the exposed 1/3 has heavy ish rust on it. The rest which was unexposed is pretty light so shouldn't take too much. Just an awkward spot and shape to sand.


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  9. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
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    4,677

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    I am not a fan of silbergleit. It is great as a lubricant but doesn't work well as a rust inhibitor, whereas the wax does both.
    You should come to our exhibition this weekend and I could give you my can of
    silbergleit and you could take your's back if it hasn't been opened.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
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    67

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    Thanks for the offer but alas I opened it up as soon as I was done sanding because I didn't want any sneaky spot rust to come back in as it's still stored outside. I'm only in hoppers Crossing so if I get a chance to pop down anyhow I will, but I work in a restaurant/bar and hours are very demanding over the weekends!

  11. #40
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    Jan 2014
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    Melbourne
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    IMG_8191.jpg IMG_8176.jpg All done and in my garage now ready to try and get the knives set properly. Now to start separating the usable bits from the firewood and start denailing

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    4,882

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    Well done on the clean up. I find with rust there is no magic coating that keeps it away for ever you can only slow it down. These days I just use a wax furniture polish after cleaning the rust bloom with wd 40 and a green pot scrubber.
    Just remember how much hard work that was and pounce on any little spot of rust as soon as you see it.
    Regards
    John

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    As above except I prefer to use Scotchbrite pads
    This with an random orbital sander, use some abrasive paper, say 120 with lubricant, maybe WD40 or similar then the Scotchbrite pad and autosol and that definitely retards the return of any corrosion.
    CHRIS

  14. #43
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
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    67

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    Quote Originally Posted by orraloon View Post
    Well done on the clean up. I find with rust there is no magic coating that keeps it away for ever you can only slow it down. These days I just use a wax furniture polish after cleaning the rust bloom with wd 40 and a green pot scrubber.
    Just remember how much hard work that was and pounce on any little spot of rust as soon as you see it.
    Regards
    John
    Thanks John,
    theres actually already little spots coming up so I'll have to get some scotchpads and
    keep them close. The silbergleit doesn't seem to hang around for long, ive run a few boards through and had to reapply it a few times. As treecycle mentioned it isn't a great rust inhibitor I will give the wax option a try

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
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    932

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    Sadly cast iron will rust without provocation. Silicone free paste wax is a cheap and easy method of keeping the surfaces rust free between uses. As you've found with the silbergleit, after running a few boards through a machine, any coating will be minimal to gone.

    Nice work cleaning up the jointer.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    12

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    Quote Originally Posted by rrich View Post
    What I have observed for rust removal from a technician that was paid to keep up the machines.

    A painters pad and 400 grit wet or dry sand paper. He would first spray the cast iron surface with WD-40 and then polish away.
    This is what I do. Works like a charm

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

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