Thread: Removing rust from

Everyone seems to have their pet way of doing it and all achieve the desired outcome. If you jump on Youtube you will find many videos of how different people do it and then just pick one that suits what you have available to do it with.
The best way I have found to stop it coming back after removal is to coat the surface with Ubeaut Traditional Wax and buff it off. This slows down the corrosion rate and also makes the surface very slippery which is what you want. I am sure there are other brands of was out there that will do the job just as well, that's just the one I use.

What I have observed for rust removal from a technician that was paid to keep up the machines.

A painters pad and 400 grit wet or dry sand paper. He would first spray the cast iron surface with WD-40 and then polish away.

You are in for a bit of old fashioned scrubbing. Without a photo it a bit of a guess but general method is first scrape it with one of those plastic scrapers that hold a stanley knife blade. Do this dry and brush off. Then with wet and dry on a longish block of wood and using WD40 or kerro get scrubbing. Start with 240 grit then finer to finish. In fact the finest grit that will get the job done. Do not be tempted to use heavy grit or wire brushes to speed things up as the aim is to keep the surface flat. No power sanding please. Wipe the sludge away as required and to view progress. When done clean with spirit then apply wax and buff.
Regards
John

I just had 30 machines under tarps under a lean to hay shed for almost a year . So I'm just having a ball removing rust . One machine at a time as I need them . The Stanley knife blade orraloon suggested is a good way , I use a very sharp fresh chisel though and I give it a wash down first with a linseed oil mix with turps and do it wet. The thicker the rust the better for this method. It takes it right off all at once. If its thick enough.

The first thing I try is the angle grinder with the twisted wire wheel attached . That just blows away the light surface rust . Then a fine paper like 280 with the Oil and turps. When I'm finished with that I give it a wipe with thinned paraffin oil . Thinned with mineral turps.
The wax polish Treecycle said is great too .
I find the twisted wire wheels better than the brass coated wiggly looking wire wheels . They last better and don't throw out nearly as many metal wire mini spears that will stick into you . They still throw them but the brass looking ones throw heaps. wear safety glasses, just in case you didn't know.
Rob

As above except I prefer to use Scotchbrite pads

Originally Posted by China

As above except I prefer to use Scotchbrite pads

An interesting thought!

IMG_8148.jpgIMG_8149.jpgThanks so much for the replies so far. Here is a photo of the table on one side, also my chisel mortise. I was concerned about ruining the flatness of the top, is that something I need to worry about?

I've found that leaving a patina gives better rust resistance down the track than going back to bright metal; remove all the surface rust with a kitchen scouring ball, but don't use any sandpaper/Scotchbrite/etc, then buff with wax to protect.

Sorry I just answered my own question when I read your reply John, I'm reading on my phone so I missed it before!

I refurbished a bandsaw with a heavily rusted table by soaking it in 1 part vinegar to 7 parts water. It takes a little time but saves on elbow grease.

I guess ill get to scrubbing with the least abrasive methods first and work my way through depending on results. hopefully I get some time over the weekend. Ill post a before and after shot just for fun! Cheers

I have done the sandpaper(wet and dry) option when I had a little bit of rust on the in-feed side of my jointer. I used Kero as a lubricant and kept adding more once I wiped off with a clean cloth. I was back to bear metal and went to higher grits to get the surface shiny, I think I stopped at 600grit. Then added wax to give the surface some protection.

It has been a long time since I last used my jointer as I my current location does not have a shed. I sprayed this with G-15 to give it protection against rust.

IMG_8155.jpgIMG_8156.jpg
It has quite a long bed on it this one.. lucky me! Also the blade is covered in rust and I'm guessing pretty dull. Are these a clean and sharpen job or a replace job? I actually went way overboard with this jointer as a beginner hobby woodworker I guess. But my theory was to spend money once on a quality machine (I just got distracted from woodworking!)

Cheers Christos. I have plenty of Kero and plenty of wd40 so when/if one runs out I have a backup. Cant wait to get this cleaned up and setup, and get a decent table saw so I can start posting a million questions on my joinery methods and projects!