Thread: Removing small section of cornice

Shouldn't be that hard. First run a sharp knife along the join between the cornice and the wall, and the cornice and the ceiling. That will ensure that when the cornice pulls away you don't tear the ceiling or wall plaster.

Cut the cornice with a sharp knife, lots of little cuts will get you there. It might be a bit slow but you will make it.

Finally, bang a paint scraper in hard along the ceiling and up the wall to break the glue on the cornice. It should come away reasonably cleanly.

Thanks for this Murray...appreciate it

Bil

Bil

I have just had to perform the same task for a new wardrobe. Mine is in an older house with timber cornice although I am assuming your cornice is plaster board.

I put a small steel tungsten tipped blade in a 125mm angle grinder. It cuts through like butter. My timber cornice is about 50mm and it does score the ceiling and wall but this is easily patched with spakfiller or something similar.

For years I had hacked away with a chisel making a mess and producing a ragged cut before I twigged to the angle grinder (you could use 100mm or 115mm also). This was with other wardobes not the present project. I am slow but not that slow.

I think it would work just as easily with plaster cornice.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Bil
I think it would work just as easily with plaster cornice.

Depends whether you like a fine dusting of white powder over everything in the room

Ian


Use the knife Luke (not the forks)

[QUOTE=Ian Smith;1276665]Depends whether you like a fine dusting of white powder over everything in the room /QUOTE]

Good point. Even with timber I spread out dust sheets first.

Regards
Paul

I just use my fein FEIN Power Tools Pty. Ltd. - FEIN MULTIMASTER - The universal system for interior work and renovation .

i use a wood chisel (not a good one) to cut rectangular holes in cornice to install duct for wiring.

Many thanks Ian

Bil

Have used a Dremel for the same "problem" on a wooden cornice - using the small circular saw blades - go slowly and it is not a problem.

I do this one all the time: I use a 600mm level to project lines up the cornice, then cut with a plaster saw (one of the little dagger style ones), cut the top and bottom with a Stanley knife then use the butt of my hammer to punch the middle of the cornice inwards. If you do it that way it doesn't tear the ceiling and it's clean and fast. With the remaining plaster I use a 4" bladed paint scraper to flatten everything out.
Enjoy

Have you considered shaping the timber, using a coping saw or jig saw, to fit around the cornice? Might be easier, and you wouldn't have the plaster dust to clean up.
...Keith McCarthy.

All good sugestions above if you want to go that way, the correct way is as keith said you should scribe the timber ti fit the cornice

Originally Posted by China

All good sugestions above if you want to go that way, the correct way is as keith said you should scribe the timber ti fit the cornice

This is the accepted method of joining timber cornice, in particular, at corners (as opposed to a mitre joint) but presumeably the purpose of cutting the top plate in is to achieve a rigid bond to the adjacent wall.

I am currently 3/4 of the way through a built in wardrobe 3.2 m long and 3m high in an older house. I do have a tendency to overbuild, but I like the uprights and the top and bottom plates to be rock solid.

Once the wardrobe framework is in place I bring the cornice around the top to match in with existing cornice as described above. This of course can be done with giprock too.

Cut the cornice at 45 degrees and cut along the shadow line. I keep a pattern so I can remember which way to do it. It is fiddly and has to be done with a coping saw.

Regards
Paul