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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brisso57 View Post
    Indeed they are laminated. At rough count there are about 15 layers.
    i plan to reduce the number of layers, by using thicker pieces.
    Regarding spring back, I plan to assess the degree of that by first making the Poang footstool - a simpler design.
    Thinner layers make laninating much easier especially with tight bends. Bear in mind Ikea have a full industrial setup and your going to have to do things the hard way. I would not go thicker lams than they use. I have made a few archery bows this way. As the chair frame will be subjected to a lot of stress similar to a bow only epoxy will do for glue and would be best cured in a hot box. To make the laminations you will have to get or make a thickness sander.
    There is always some springback so you will have to make a couple if experimental moulds to get the angles right. I have to say there is going to be a lot of work just getting the jigs and setup ready. However its your time and it will be a learning curve.
    Regards
    John

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Brisso

    I am not convinced that steam bending would be an option with some of those tight curves with any solid timber. Laminating is almost certainly the way to go and as others have suggested, keep the laminations as thin as you can as it will be so much easier to work with and I believe there will be less tendency to spring back with thinner material: Consequentially less guesswork. Depending on what machinery you have available I would go less than 2mm if I could, but certainly not more.

    Years ago I made a spiral staircase and the handrail was from laminated strips of Ironbark about 5mm thick (about ten of them). I would glue it up and clamp on the form using resorcinol glue (the two part stuff that looks like strawberry jam) and remove the clamps the next day. Then I would test the integrity of the join by dropping it on the ground whereupon it would spring apart like the components of an old fashioned watch. 5mm was much, much too thick. Not knowing any better in those days I gave up and used some radiata pine that I stained red.: A poor substitute.

    That staircase was nowhere near as tight as your poang chair with a diameter of 1.5m. I know Silky Oak (assuming Grevillia Robusta here) is not in the same strength category as Ironbark, but those radii are a really big ask of any timber.

    I would also cut some test pieces from the Silky Oak to see whether they can be bent that tight at 90degs. You will very quickly know if it is on or not.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Brisso

    I am not convinced that steam bending would be an option with some of those tight curves with any solid timber. Laminating is almost certainly the way to go and as others have suggested, keep the laminations as thin as you can as it will be so much easier to work with and I believe there will be less tendency to spring back with thinner material: Consequentially less guesswork. Depending on what machinery you have available I would go less than 2mm if I could, but certainly not more.

    Years ago I made a spiral staircase and the handrail was from laminated strips of Ironbark about 5mm thick (about ten of them). I would glue it up and clamp on the form using resorcinol glue (the two part stuff that looks like strawberry jam) and remove the clamps the next day. Then I would test the integrity of the join by dropping it on the ground whereupon it would spring apart like the components of an old fashioned watch. 5mm was much, much too thick. Not knowing any better in those days I gave up and used some radiata pine that I stained red.: A poor substitute.

    That staircase was nowhere near as tight as your poang chair with a diameter of 1.5m. I know Silky Oak (assuming Grevillia Robusta here) is not in the same strength category as Ironbark, but those radii are a really big ask of any timber.

    I would also cut some test pieces from the Silky Oak to see whether they can be bent that tight at 90degs. You will very quickly know if it is on or not.

    Regards
    Paul
    Thx Paul
    I'm going to test my skills and methods by first-up recreating a Poang footstool in Silky Oak. I'll put up some pictures along the way. Oh, & BTW, I'll likely be using Northern SO, cardwellia sublimis.

    cheers

    Doug
    "Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak!" :D

  5. #19
    rrich Guest

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    Doug,
    For goodness sake, please create a build thread and educate us all.

  6. #20
    rrich Guest

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    Deleted / Duplicate

    Stupid BB software

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Sydney
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    2,205

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    I’ve done some tighter laminated bends than what you want but they were not weight supporting.
    They were made using veneer and epoxy.
    I’d suggest you source some veneer to make your footstool.
    Test your bends for strength and if needed insert a piece of carbon fibre under the top and bottom layer.
    H.
    Sorry about the upside down pic but you get the idea.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by clear out; 26th May 2019 at 05:20 AM. Reason: Typo
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

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