Thread: How to restore Tasmanian oak wood rot

Looks like it has been coated with a polyurethane finish. I think you are going to have to strip it right back and refinish the whole bench to do it properly. Take it back to raw timber with a belt sander. That will remove a lot of the water damage, then you'll have to fill any remaining holes and then finish it with something like Estapol 7008 if you want the hard finish again, or there are various oil finishes you can use which are less hard wearing but easier to repair.

Someone might have some advice on patching it. You could give it a try but I think it will be difficult to blend any repair in.

Originally Posted by silentC

Looks like it has been coated with a polyurethane finish. I think you are going to have to strip it right back and refinish the whole bench to do it properly. Take it back to raw timber with a belt sander. That will remove a lot of the water damage, then you'll have to fill any remaining holes and then finish it with something like Estapol 7008 if you want the hard finish again, or there are various oil finishes you can use which are less hard wearing but easier to repair.

Someone might have some advice on patching it. You could give it a try but I think it will be difficult to blend any repair in.

Thanks for your response, silentC. Yes, you're right on it being coated with some sort of clear finish. Sounds like a much bigger job than I had anticipated, if it is best to sand back the whole bench. What would you suggest I should use to "fill any remaining holes"?

Cheers
Ross

If you're going to use a hard finish again, it doesn't really matter. I would probably use some Timbermate wood filler. You can get it in many different colours and mix them to get as close a match as possible. But I suppose it depends how bad the rotten spots are once you've sanded it back. If it's punky, you'll probably need to dig it out to get back to good wood and you might need to use an epoxy filler.

Anyway see what other suggestions you get. Someone might have a less labour-intensive way of doing it.

The actual rotten bits will have to be cut out back to sound timber and a patch of wood glued in. How well that can be done to match the existing wood is open to question. I dont think an invisable mend is possable so perhaps the patch or patches can be a highlight or contrast. The damp that has caused the rot must also be be seen to otherwise the whole exercise is not worth it.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

The damp that has caused the rot must also be be seen to otherwise the whole exercise is not worth it.
Regards
John

Thanks for your response, John. By "the damp", I assume you are referring to the water that often ends up in those rotted areas as a result of washing up, using the dish drainer, etc? If so, that's going to be a difficult one. We always thought Tassie oak was an inappropriate choice of bench material, given the wetness that is inevitable in the area. Looks great, but impractical. The previous owners put it in, BTW, not us. They also put wooden boards as the kitchen floor - another choice that was on aesthetic rather than practical grounds. Anyway...

Scratching my head now - this seems like a bloody difficult job, and one that is not going to look great even if expertly done (which it won't be if I do it).

Cheers
Ross

If you use Estapol 7008 or some other finish suitable for bench tops in wet areas, it shouldn't matter what timber is underneath. The problem comes about because water is able to get under the finish. That can happen a couple of ways, one is via the edges when the hole for the sink is cut, and the other is through actual cuts in the finish. One of those photos looks very much like the finish has been cut or scratched and that has allowed water to get in.

So what you need to do if you are going to go with the hard finish again is make sure the edges of any penetrations are sealed with the same finish and doing the bottom of the bench is also a good idea, but at least lap it for a couple of inches around the sink cut out.

The reason I suggested epoxy filler is that it will be difficult to make a patch that doesn't stand out and it looks more 'organic' than having a straight edge where two bits of timber butt against each other. It's obvious it has been repaired but it looks less bad, if you know what I mean. But it may not be necessary once you've sanded it back, you'll just have to see. Although it looks pretty deep in places.

I like the look of wooden benches but I've decided I'd never have one. I'd much rather something harder and less susceptible to water damage etc. I'm using zinc alloy sheet on the one I'm building for home now.

You could get one of the bench top crowds that are around to price a new top for you. Melamine doesn't have to be super expensive and there are the man made stone alternatives. At least get a quote so you know what you're looking at.

Originally Posted by silentC

One of those photos looks very much like the finish has been cut or scratched and that has allowed water to get in.

Correct

Originally Posted by silentC

So what you need to do if you are going to go with the hard finish again is make sure the edges of any penetrations are sealed with the same finish and doing the bottom of the bench is also a good idea, but at least lap it for a couple of inches around the sink cut out.

So, I'd need to take the sink out to seal the wood underneath it with Estapol?

Originally Posted by silentC

The reason I suggested epoxy filler is that it will be difficult to make a patch that doesn't stand out and it looks more 'organic' than having a straight edge where two bits of timber butt against each other. It's obvious it has been repaired but it looks less bad, if you know what I mean. But it may not be necessary once you've sanded it back, you'll just have to see. Although it looks pretty deep in places.

Yes, the patch of rot at the corner of the sink does seem to go deep. If it's too deep to sandpaper away, I guess I'd use a chisel initially, then once all the rot has been chipped out, smooth off with sandpaper before filling?

Thanks for your very useful input, silentC.

Cheers
Ross

Yeah you'll need to take out the sink and the drop in cook top if you have one to sand it all back anyway. In fact I'd be inclined to pull the whole thing out and do it in the shed to avoid the mess. My sister's husband did theirs in situ a couple of years ago and I think she is still trying to clean up the mess...

See what you've got when it's sanded back, but a chisel is the most likely tool to use. I would just scrape it out clean. Don't need to sand it before filling. Just fill it with whatever you're going to use and then sand the area back. Then follow the directions on the tin for prep. Usually sanding back through a few grades of paper and a thorough wipe down before applying the finish.

In addition to Estapol (Wattyl), Cabots, Intergrain and some others all make finishes that should be suitable. Just make sure it's for hard-wearing wet areas. They usually say on the tin if it's suitable for bench tops. Often it will be called a floor finish. Estapol 7008 is 2 part and very hard. If you get that, be sure to get the solvent they make for it too because you can't clean up with anything else.

Thanks for the further clarification, silentC. Yikes! Sounds like a far bigger job than ever anticipated. Makes a strong case for jumping on rot like this as soon as it appears - and for using a more appropriate material as a kitchen benchtop.

Since I wouldn't have a clue how to take out a sink or hotplate and don't have a big enough shed space to do the work off-site, I'm inclined to have a go at a patch job and see how it looks before taking on such a daunting project.

Cheers
Ross

Yes I can understand that, it's a big job with a lot of mucking about to do afterwards too, like splash backs etc.

If you just want to bog it up to stop it getting worse, you could just clean up the loose and flaking stuff and just fill it with a clear epoxy filler, lapping it over the remaining good finish. Not sure how long it will last but it would stave off the inevitable.

Something from the boat-building world might help eg: http://www.shipways.com.au/epoxy_glues.htm

Or look at casting resin, which can be scraped back and sanded after it has dried.