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6th February 2018, 11:34 PM #31
Where the pic looks blue in places is because it's predominantly artificial lighting that the camera is compensating for by adding blue - the blue part is the exterior light creeping in (it doesn't need the extra blue, but it gets it anyway)..
Judging by the colour of the concrete floor, I estimate that the most accurate rendition of the blue paint is the front of the base in the second pic (certainly not the left side of it). The colour in the first pic is not accurate, as can be seen by the concrete, which looks warm.
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7th February 2018, 05:48 AM #32
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7th February 2018, 11:14 AM #33
Nope - it's all about the colour temperature of the artificial lights (whatever the source), compared to what is coming in the door. LEDs can put out any °K that they are programmed/manufactured to. His LEDs look to be about 3200°K (a little warm) which is spot on in my opinion. The non- direct sunlight coming through the door would be up around 6500°K (from memory) and so is very blue. No camera can correct for both - post-production required.
Furthermore, a still image captures all these nuances for analysis. When we are actually there our eyes can dynamically adjust remarkably quickly - think of the contrast in a full sun pic and how we actually see it. We can see the shadow detail live, but in the properly exposed pic it's just dense and dark (which is why we use fill-flash as compensation for the smaller dynamic range of any capturing medium).
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7th February 2018, 04:18 PM #34
Finished
Routed out the removable insert, fitted a piece of scrap VicAsh.
Made a friction fit wedge mechanism that holds the top square to the cast iron table The cross beam wedges unto the leading taper of the cast iron, simple and works remarkably well. It all can me removed easily if needed.
Fitted the split Rock Maple fence.
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