Thread: Rookie - Mitre Joint Desk - Please help

Hi Aiken ... welcome to the Forum

The desk you have chosen will need more than the 3 tools you have to make it successfully ... try something simple to start with and give the 900 long mitred joints a miss ... such lengths are a challenge for the skilled worker. Mitre joints without splines are one of the weakest joints ... not a good idea for large pieces. Doing a flat top and bracing the sides to the top is your only option really.

2.6 M is an awkward length ... panel boards max out at 2400 or there about.

If you were to attempt the top with timber boards then you will need to invest in many clamps ... say 8 or more at least to do the glue up ... and as at least $60 each that is quite expensive.

If you use hardwood like 32mm Tas Oak for the top and sides... at around $32 per 2.4m length in 65mm wide the top of 2400 x 900 would eat up around $450 in timber and the sides perhaps another $200. Add another $70 for the backing to brace it ... it's quite expensive (even without the clamps)

An alternative is 18mm marine ply AA finish .... this would cost around $180 for a 1220 x 2440 sheet. With a hardwood frame supporting a single 18mm thickness top and sides you could get out of it for around $450.

A cheaper alternative is to use non-structural ply at $37 per sheet (double thickens top and sides, and cover the top and sides in a cheap finish panel ... Masonite for example.

I would think that the best use of funds is to buy a second hand desk from the Op Shop ... and either put the savings into tools, or tear it apart and use the timbers to make something of your own design.. old timber furniture can be recycled at a fraction of the cost of new materials.

Regards

Rob

I'm sure you'll get a few answers from more experienced members but here goes:

1. Material - You can't beat a good solid top. I'd be going oak/ash over pine. The only downside there is your cost goes up. A 2.6m long desk is a big top. Bunnings sell laminated panels which are 2.2 long, already glued and oiled. They could be a good starting point If you don't have the tools (clamps, sander etc) to try a proper glue up. https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-rang...minated-panels

2. Glue up - clamps are really important to distribute pressure along the timber. Biscuits are a cheapish way to help with alignment of the boards. The initial cost of the machine could be $100=$500 depending on the brand of tool. You could get good alignment without it but they would definitely help. Biscuits could also help with reinforcing/aligning the mitre.

3. Mitre Join - I've never done one that long but I know that it you need to be spot on with the cut to get a decent join.

4. Finishing - A ROS is useful. You could also try a card scraper to replace initial sanding and finish sanding by hand.
An Introduction to Card Scrapers - FineWoodworking

Reading this, I have but one thought in my mind - and it's based on the proposed length of this desk. As others have said, 2.6m is a really long desk. Standard commercial desk sizes are 1200mm, 1500mm and the largest standard size I have seen is 1800mm.

I wonder if it might be possible for you to construct 2 x 1300mm custom sized desks instead? In this way, each of the desks will have better and feasible support from legs that are not too far apart from each other.

I tend to agree with Rob, if the budget is tight then a used desk or two will be the most economical solution though not the most satisfying. Used commercial office desks are available very cheaply, and can be altered to make them more suitable. This one I have at home cost me $30, which I cut down to 600 deep and also cut down the width to fit the space, and used the offcuts to make the monitor riser. A used 3 drawer mobile unit to fit underneath cost a mere $10. These desks are put together with cam and dowel, they're easily pulled apart and altered with the limited tools you have.
IMG_0236.jpg
To build a desk 2.6 m with limited tools and budget, you might consider a trestle desk. That means not too dissimilar to the sawhorses you made, and a top made of board with timber for bracing. 19mm Particleboard flooring sheets are economical and in 3.6 metre lengths. Doesn't look pretty but that can be painted, you can glue an overlay material onto it. You can be creative in your approach without it needing to be overly expensive or beyond your skill level. Good luck!

If Bunnings panels aren't suitable, How about floor boards for your top and a couple of simple trestles/sawhorses. Not the greatest fine woodworking but very serviceable and cost effective. Square each end of the top with your circular saw, screw battens underneath with your drill and your away. If you want to get fancy you could even put an edge piece on or rip the tongue/ groove off.

edit - I agree with Richmond

Welcome to the forum.

Just a couple of thoughts, is the desk in a prominent place or "hidden" away in a study where only you and the family will see or use it. Is it a permanent fixture or if/when you move does it stay or go with you?

Buying a used desk from the Op shop or a dealer in used office furniture could be a quick and not overly expensive way to solve your problem. You could refurbish it and gain some finishing skills.

This is probably very left field or out there coming from someone who works with wood, but, don't be embarrassed or ashamed of going to places like IKEA and picking up ideas. I have seen some interesting knock down desks, tops and or legs which can be purchased singly or complete. Depending on your needs or views on decorating, industrial legs or bases and your own manufactured top could be appealing. What comes to mind here is a large desk I put together for a mate's office was using good quality filing cabinets as the "legs", a support rail attached to the wall and a top across the cabinets.

Hope it helps you out.