Thread: Router, compound mitre saw, table saw, buy what first?

Go the Triton...
I wouldn't be too concerned with the depth stops. I've had no trouble at all with them so far.

Geeze I'm confussed with this power tool buying. Variable speed routers.......... Was decided on the Triton (but the plastic depth stops look a bit airy fairy to me).

Fantapantz

My view is that you probably won't need a variable speed router for the initial projects you have in mind. The main purpose of variable speed routers is to allow you to run large router bits, especially door panel bits, more safely (ie less chance of kickback). The people who recommend that you buy a 3 1/4 hp variable-speed unit probably already have at least one smaller fixed-speed router for general hand-held use. Their recommendations are usually based on their NEXT purchase for a powerful router that will spend 90% of its time under a router table. You probably won't use a rotuer table until after you've finished all your outdoor construction projects, which you'll need to do to keep SWMBO happy

In addition, like drills and saws, one router will rarely do all the tasks you want it to do, although some are made to try and do all tasks. If you have a large, powerful and heavy router you will be continuously wishing you also had a smaller and more agile router handy for the more fiddly tasks and avoid having to change router bits...

My recommendation is that your buy a well-made, fixed-speed plunge router in the 2hp range for your initial construction jobs. There is plenty to choose from in this market category (eg Makita and Hitachi are reputable, DeWalt somewhat less so, and many say that GMC have great service). I would also recommend straight edges on the base for running against a straight edge clamped to your workpiece. This router will be useful for rebating, boring, rounding over edges, etc. Then, through the money you've save on making your own pergola, you MAY want to start looking at a more powerful variable-speed router such as the Triton (which has many good features and good value for the price), for Hitachi, Dewalt/CMT/Elu, Bosch for a router table so you can do more fancy stuff for the kitchen.

Two more hand tool recommendations - get a carpenter's square (must have if you're doing your own stairs) and a good 1m aluminium ruler to be a straight edge (because tape measures won't rule a straight line).

Well the time has come for spend number one. Stuff it all....I'll get the Makita LS1212 tomorrow...It just slides so nicely.... Any advice against this speak quickly......It'll be secondhand by 9am Wednesday..

Fantapantz,

My old Hitachi TR-12 router served me for some ten years before I bought a Makita 3612C variable speed. The Hitachi still spends most of its life upside down in my router table. I pull the Makita out when I need to turn a large bit slowly, and that isn’t very often. The Hitachi is my preferred machine for the majority of jobs and will probably outlast the Makita. The only bad point about it is the two-spanner chuck adjustment. At 5 kg it is about one kg lighter than the Makita and I don’t find the hard start an impediment for hand held routing. Its 2hp motor handles a wide range of bits in some serious hardwood.

The second most useful tool I have is a Hitachi C9 circular saw. With a straight edge, a pair of clamps and a couple of saw horses this will deal with most sheet material. Although I have a 10 inch table saw I still prefer the circular saw for sheet work used in general carpentry. The table saw is preferable for accurate cabinet work.

I used a handsaw for cut-offs until a few years back when I bought a Makita CMS with a 10 inch blade. It was about half the price of the sliding version but still cuts boards about 100 x 50 mm quickly and accurate enough. For really accurate mitres in cabinet work I found the Makita disappointing. Also the mitre gauge on my table saw was fiddly to say the least, until I replaced it with an Incra mitre gauge. I’m now satisfied with the quality of the mitre cuts I produce in cabinetry.

The SCMS will probably only cut boards to about 300mm wide and therefore has no application on wide sheets! The $500 difference between the drop and the sliding version almost financed my jointer! Or you could buy a Hitachi F-20A planer, another useful tool.

Personally I think the SCMS is a great carpenters tool with some limitations but at a similar price to a contractors table saw diverts a lot of funds away from several more useful tools that would provide greater versatility particularly if you are involved in renovating a house.

Personally I think the SCMS is a great carpenters tool with some limitations but at a similar price to a contractors table saw diverts a lot of funds away from several more useful tools that would provide greater versatility particularly if you are involved in renovating a house.

I couldn't agree with Redneck more. This advice may be too late, but I think you'll find an SCMS overkill, especially a 12" model like the LS1212. I'm sure you could do all your framing cuts with a CMS at almost half the price of a SCMS. If you must have a SCMS, I think that you'll find that the 12" model won't provide you that much more cutting capacity than a 10" model. By the way, have a look at this thread on Makita SMCS clones. If the parts really are interchangeable with the 1013 I will definitely get one of these!

Oh yeah - one other tool I wish I had when I was constructing my pergolas was a framing nail gun. These things will not only save your thumbs they will also help putting temporary nails in quickly and accurately without having to take both hands off a beam or rafter. They are fantastic to get decking done all in one afternoon, too and aren't bad for cat management either... Since you've already got a compressor you may want to invest in a nail gun with a long (20m plus) hose. I know I will be, but my problem is choosing which model - there are a lot of choices out there...:confused:

If renovating a house, or work there in, is the primary reason to buy tools, then top of my "serious" list would be a SCMS. This would not only be used to quickly cut timber to length, but it will also be able to help in making joints (such as laps and tenons). A CMS cannot do this. Look to the 10" Makita-clone at around $550.

For larger boards, a 7 1/2" hand held circular saw plus straight edge will surfice for now (until funds again build up to finance a tablesaw). Plus this is more portable.

A decent (!!!) battery-powered drill with 2 batteries and a quick charger. My choice is the Panasonic 15.6v - absolutely superb (well-balanced, powerful, reliable, LIGHT), The downside is that it will set you back about $450.

A medium sized router is indicated since you will need to hold it as well as use it in a table set-up. Look in the range of 2 hp. THe GMC to keep the costs down?

Biscuit machine - look no further than the GMC.

I would single out Mick, who gave some helpful advice that I think is in line with my thoughts.

Regards from Perth

Derek
(who has renovated a few houses now, the last one which took 7 years - then then promptly knocked it down and started again)

For larger boards, a 7 1/2" hand held circular saw plus straight edge will surfice for now (until funds again build up to finance a tablesaw). Plus this is more portable.

I support derek's comment. I have a DeWalt 9 3/4" hand held saw - great for cutting wet timber but too cumbersome for cutting panels accurately. BTW, I got the DeWalt for about $280 from Glenfords, but I think I should have bought the equivalent Makita.

Derek

Just curious- do you find an SCMS reliable in forming accurate tenons and lap joints? I've used my router (the cheap but reliable little GMC) in the past to make basic frames and found it pretty accurate. A router will usually produce end grain tear out, which can be reduced avoided with some supporting scrap wood.

Well the dirty deed is done. Got the LS1212 this morning. Was extremely happy about getting Bunnings down from $1323 to $1111 cause Tradetools had it for $1235. Then i sit down and read The Brisbane Trader magazine and Tradetools has it for $1197. Done $40......The illegitimately born inbred rang up Tradetools to confirm the price too.
:mad:
Looks like I'm back at Bunnings to have a talk to the manager tomorrow and hopefully recover the cash. Will bare the teeth and show them how impressed I am.......

On the nail gun front........ Considering when I get one/two they will probably be doing the equivalent of 2 houses in my lifetime. What do you think of Paslode cause can get them cheap, and having looked at it briefly I'll probably need two, a framer and a brad:confused: My motto is....." If I might need it try to fit it in the budget asap, if I'm lucky I may be around for another 40 years, and doing things like concrete formwork with a clawhammer doesn't appeal. I have a distinct dislike to drilling holes in the top of my fingernails to relieve the pressure of the blood.

I had a Paslode IMCT framing nailer until I sold it recently, and it was great. Hearing protection a must, but good control and extremely reliable, with not a single misfire. In my view, they are among the best.

I can reccomend the paslode framing gun also. I've used one extensively and I'd buy one today if Iwas in the market for another framer. It's less expensive than the Bostitch and Senco guns, very light, has very aggressive teeth on the contact tip meaning you can skew nail at acute angles, is easily opened to clear jams (every gun I've ever worked with has jammed at some stage) and will drive a 90mm nail into hardwood. For a finishing gun I would recommend the Bostitch N50FN or whatever has replaced it now. I've had one for 13 years and have only just had to put an O-ring kit in it last month. It's probably shot about 20 boxes of nails (5000 to the box). It's light, powerful (drives a 50mm pin below the surface on hardwood, which a Senco won't), easy to load and has a depth set.
I wouldn't recommend using a framing gun to fix decking as the nails are too large a gauge and will probably split the boards. They will also leave some pretty nasty marks where the driver blade hits the deck, as well as where the contact teeth bite into the deck. I usually hand nail my decks as it looks neater but if you really want to use a nail gun then you need to use a coil nailer so that you can get galvanised nails of the correct gauge.
All the "go fast" gear is nice and makes life easier but you can (and I have) build a house just with a power saw, drill, planer and your hand tools. Work out what you want to build and what you will need to do it with and see if your budget will stretch. Or possibly if you succesfully tackle a sizeable project first SWMBO will be so impressed she will be agreeable to further purchases.

Mick

Any idea of exactly which two nail guns you would buy if you could only have two?

I've got a finish nailer (Senco 41XP - fairly expensive) and a brad nailer (Supercheap Auto style - super cheap and super good!).

I'd love a framer nailer one day when the Mastercard agrees with it, but I'd probably go a Paslode or a Senco (I like pneumatics).

If you want a cheap brad nailer that is as good as the expensive ones, go with the Supercheap one.. Less than $100 and down as low as $69 sometimes on sale. Can take 15-50mm brads too Have used mine to shoot a couple thousand brads so far for various workshop tasks and its still as good as new.

It all comes down to personal opinion though. Everyone will recommend their favorite of course, but pneumatic tools usually require very little servicing and give a very good innings before they pack up their bags ready for the re-fit shop.

I have a Stanley Bostitch SB1850BN brad nailer and it is excellent. Nice and light and has no trouble driving 2" brads. As I said in my previous post, I sold my Paslode, but it would be my choice for a framer. I think Mick's advice is what you should listen to, as he is using them more than us home woodworkers.