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1st October 2008, 12:36 PM #16
I love the cabinets and drawers Ian. After your reply, I won't even enquire about the price of birch ply! Is the 'standard' (hoop pine?) ply only available in 19mm at Bunnies/Mitre, or do they stock 12mm too? I only ask because I'll have to send the Chief Purchasing Officer out to do the deal.
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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1st October 2008 12:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st October 2008, 12:41 PM #17
Hi WW - bear in mind that Bunnies seem to vary from store to store, let alone city to city. It is pretty variable what they have up here on any given day, apart from the regular construction grade stuff. If I was after some decent ply I'd head to one of the bigger sheetgoods suppliers. Price would probably be better, you'd have endless choice, and maybe even find someone who knows what they're talking about!
Cheers,IW
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1st October 2008, 12:49 PM #18.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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1st October 2008, 12:55 PM #19
Tile Importers
17 Natalia Ave
Oakleigh Sth
03 9562 7181
They stock MDF, melamine and plywood as well as timber.
Not too sure what varieties of plywood they sell, but I have bought hoop pine 19mm there at times.
There is another supplier in the Dandenong Cranbourne area, can't remember their name, will have a look.
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1st October 2008, 01:14 PM #20
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1st October 2008, 05:53 PM #21
Jake,
You might like to take a look at this thread - worked for me
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=73190
Ian
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1st October 2008, 08:32 PM #22
www.plyboard.com.au
Plyboard Distributors
192 Princes Hwy
Dandenong, VIC 3175
(03) 9793 4233
Allboards Hallam
92 Melverton Drv
Hallam
VIC 3803 - More...
ph: 03 97963900
fax: 03 97964011
Cheers..................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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1st October 2008, 08:49 PM #23
Jake
I'd go with 12mm ply
rip it into strips sized for the drawer depth you want PLUS 5mm wide (say) to allow for the groove that will hold the base PLUS 8mm (say) for to support the base
use a router or saw to cut the slot for the base on all strips. this slot is the width of the material you're using for the base and about 5mm deep
dock the strips into sides (work in pairs) and fronts and backs (again work in pairs)
grab the backs and rip off the slot
cut your bases — make sure they are square and wider (by 2 x the slot depth -2mm) and longer (by say 20mm) than the finished drawer
assemble each drawer upside down on a flat surface using the base to keep everything square
biscuit and/or screw the sides to the front and back
bung in a screw to stop the base sliding out the back
when you've got time plant a nice front on each drawer
ian
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1st October 2008, 10:39 PM #24
Thanks kindly for all the ideas. Plenty to think about now.
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1st October 2008, 11:41 PM #25
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2nd October 2008, 10:13 PM #26Retired
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The industry standard for kitchen cabinets and drawers is 16mm melamine chipboard. Unless you get lucky with some seconds, you just can't beat it. Just rip, cross-cut to length, air nail then screw with 45mm chipboard screws. Depending on use, will last for a long time, over ten years in most kitchen settings where the drawers are opened daily, over and over.
Euro slides, coupled with some Euro hinges for cupboard doors, and you have something that is cheap and will last. Go for HMR if you're worried about the water.
Of course, solid would be better. Maybe even ply for strength, but not for finish.
Jeff
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3rd October 2008, 12:58 AM #27Senior Member
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Hi Jake,
I'd use 18mm MDF and biscuits - fast and very strong. A coat of polyurethane varnish will keep out moisture and oil. You could go for MR (moisture resistant) MDF but probably not necessary. Don't know what ply is like over there, but over here the cheap stuff is rubbish - you need to spend a lot to get good stuff.
Cheers
Paul
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3rd October 2008, 10:21 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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For shed drawers I've been using 17mm CD ply bottoms, screwed to Elraco (nee Hafele) 40kg ball bearing slides - the ones with the tabs that screw to the bottom of the drawer - then using whatever I have on hand (flooring offcuts, more ply, pine) for the sides connected with pocket hole screws to the bottom & each other. I cut the front panel so it fills the case opening & just trim a bit off if I get it lop sided.
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4th October 2008, 07:08 PM #29
Jake,
use the 16mm white melamine particleboard, it's cheap, durable and is prefinished. The inside of your drawers will be easy to keep clean and the contents will be easily visible. Just rip the sheet to the required widths, dock to length and, of you're feeling really flash, edge in melamine. Use AV56 glue and some brads out of a gun to shoot it all together, including the bottom out of the same material. I've made pot drawers like this which are still happily carrying 40kgs of pots each in a commercial application. Use the cheaper runners with wheels (about $5 each) for drawers which won't hold too much weight and the full extension jobs for the heavier stuff. You're building a workshop in which to make money out of your woodwork, you don't need to make a showpiece to prove anything to anyone.
Drawers are 25mm narrower than the openings they fit into and you need 15mm between drawers if using the wheeled runners, 5mm will suffice for the ball bearing runners. Drawer fronts and backs fit between the sides and are 33mm less than the finished width, bottom is the same width as the front and back and 33mm shorter than the sides. Fit false fronts to dress it all up and keep the dust out. Spend the saved time with your family or making something for your home.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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6th October 2008, 08:09 AM #30
thanks everyone.
Sounds like the go Mick.
I always wrestle with the decision to dither about trying to use up small offcuts, or not muck about and buy a sheet. (really need a panel saw for this joint)
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