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  1. #16
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    Oct 2006
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    Melbourne
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    I love the cabinets and drawers Ian. After your reply, I won't even enquire about the price of birch ply! Is the 'standard' (hoop pine?) ply only available in 19mm at Bunnies/Mitre, or do they stock 12mm too? I only ask because I'll have to send the Chief Purchasing Officer out to do the deal.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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  3. #17
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    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    I love the cabinets and drawers Ian. After your reply, I won't even enquire about the price of birch ply! Is the 'standard' (hoop pine?) ply only available in 19mm at Bunnies/Mitre, or do they stock 12mm too? I only ask because I'll have to send the Chief Purchasing Officer out to do the deal.
    Hi WW - bear in mind that Bunnies seem to vary from store to store, let alone city to city. It is pretty variable what they have up here on any given day, apart from the regular construction grade stuff. If I was after some decent ply I'd head to one of the bigger sheetgoods suppliers. Price would probably be better, you'd have endless choice, and maybe even find someone who knows what they're talking about!
    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #18
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Hi WW - bear in mind that Bunnies seem to vary from store to store, let alone city to city. It is pretty variable what they have up here on any given day, apart from the regular construction grade stuff. If I was after some decent ply I'd head to one of the bigger sheetgoods suppliers. Price would probably be better, you'd have endless choice, and maybe even find someone who knows what they're talking about!
    Cheers,
    Good advice, thanks. That begs another question; does anyone know of a sheetgoods supplier in the SE suburbs of Melbourne?

    Oh, sorry for hijacking the thread.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
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    80
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    16,560

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Good advice, thanks. That begs another question; does anyone know of a sheetgoods supplier in the SE suburbs of Melbourne?

    Oh, sorry for hijacking the thread.
    Tile Importers
    17 Natalia Ave
    Oakleigh Sth
    03 9562 7181

    They stock MDF, melamine and plywood as well as timber.

    Not too sure what varieties of plywood they sell, but I have bought hoop pine 19mm there at times.

    There is another supplier in the Dandenong Cranbourne area, can't remember their name, will have a look.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I either assembled some as-is, or fitted them into the furniture as I went along. It's kind of weird building cabinets to fit round drawers, instead of t'other way round, but challeges your ability to work accurately!
    Ian, I built my bench cabinet around three drawers found during the hard rubbish clean up. Definitly tests your accuracy. The cabinet is 19mm construction grade ply.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Queensland, Aus
    Age
    72
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    776

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    Jake,
    You might like to take a look at this thread - worked for me

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=73190


    Ian

  8. #22
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    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
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    4,158

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Good advice, thanks. That begs another question; does anyone know of a sheetgoods supplier in the SE suburbs of Melbourne?

    Oh, sorry for hijacking the thread.
    www.plyboard.com.au
    Plyboard Distributors
    192 Princes Hwy
    Dandenong, VIC 3175
    (03) 9793 4233

    Allboards Hallam
    92 Melverton Drv
    Hallam
    VIC 3803 - More...
    ph: 03 97963900
    fax: 03 97964011


    Cheers..................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

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    Jake

    I'd go with 12mm ply
    rip it into strips sized for the drawer depth you want PLUS 5mm wide (say) to allow for the groove that will hold the base PLUS 8mm (say) for to support the base
    use a router or saw to cut the slot for the base on all strips. this slot is the width of the material you're using for the base and about 5mm deep
    dock the strips into sides (work in pairs) and fronts and backs (again work in pairs)
    grab the backs and rip off the slot
    cut your bases — make sure they are square and wider (by 2 x the slot depth -2mm) and longer (by say 20mm) than the finished drawer
    assemble each drawer upside down on a flat surface using the base to keep everything square
    biscuit and/or screw the sides to the front and back
    bung in a screw to stop the base sliding out the back
    when you've got time plant a nice front on each drawer


    ian

  10. #24
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    Apr 2005
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    kyogle N.S.W
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    50
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    Thanks kindly for all the ideas. Plenty to think about now.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter View Post
    www.plyboard.com.au
    Plyboard Distributors
    192 Princes Hwy
    Dandenong, VIC 3175
    (03) 9793 4233

    Allboards Hallam
    92 Melverton Drv
    Hallam
    VIC 3803 - More...
    ph: 03 97963900
    fax: 03 97964011


    Cheers..................Sean
    Brilliant! Thanks.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Kiewa
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    64
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    The industry standard for kitchen cabinets and drawers is 16mm melamine chipboard. Unless you get lucky with some seconds, you just can't beat it. Just rip, cross-cut to length, air nail then screw with 45mm chipboard screws. Depending on use, will last for a long time, over ten years in most kitchen settings where the drawers are opened daily, over and over.

    Euro slides, coupled with some Euro hinges for cupboard doors, and you have something that is cheap and will last. Go for HMR if you're worried about the water.

    Of course, solid would be better. Maybe even ply for strength, but not for finish.

    Jeff

  13. #27
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    Sep 2006
    Location
    Bookham, Surrey, UK
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    79
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    Hi Jake,

    I'd use 18mm MDF and biscuits - fast and very strong. A coat of polyurethane varnish will keep out moisture and oil. You could go for MR (moisture resistant) MDF but probably not necessary. Don't know what ply is like over there, but over here the cheap stuff is rubbish - you need to spend a lot to get good stuff.

    Cheers

    Paul

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
    Posts
    3,157

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    For shed drawers I've been using 17mm CD ply bottoms, screwed to Elraco (nee Hafele) 40kg ball bearing slides - the ones with the tabs that screw to the bottom of the drawer - then using whatever I have on hand (flooring offcuts, more ply, pine) for the sides connected with pocket hole screws to the bottom & each other. I cut the front panel so it fills the case opening & just trim a bit off if I get it lop sided.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
    Age
    62
    Posts
    5,639

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    Jake,
    use the 16mm white melamine particleboard, it's cheap, durable and is prefinished. The inside of your drawers will be easy to keep clean and the contents will be easily visible. Just rip the sheet to the required widths, dock to length and, of you're feeling really flash, edge in melamine. Use AV56 glue and some brads out of a gun to shoot it all together, including the bottom out of the same material. I've made pot drawers like this which are still happily carrying 40kgs of pots each in a commercial application. Use the cheaper runners with wheels (about $5 each) for drawers which won't hold too much weight and the full extension jobs for the heavier stuff. You're building a workshop in which to make money out of your woodwork, you don't need to make a showpiece to prove anything to anyone.

    Drawers are 25mm narrower than the openings they fit into and you need 15mm between drawers if using the wheeled runners, 5mm will suffice for the ball bearing runners. Drawer fronts and backs fit between the sides and are 33mm less than the finished width, bottom is the same width as the front and back and 33mm shorter than the sides. Fit false fronts to dress it all up and keep the dust out. Spend the saved time with your family or making something for your home.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  16. #30
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    Apr 2005
    Location
    kyogle N.S.W
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    thanks everyone.

    Sounds like the go Mick.

    I always wrestle with the decision to dither about trying to use up small offcuts, or not muck about and buy a sheet. (really need a panel saw for this joint)

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