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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Deception Bay / Brisbane
    Posts
    47

    Default Sanding a convave curve smooth

    Hi all

    Long time lurker first time poster but I have a question for you.

    I am making a grandfather clock from one of Carbatec's plans and everything is going smoothly so far. The problem I have is how to finish the semicircle's around the dial area.

    I have only cut out one semicircle so far, it is roughly 40mm thick and has a radius of about 140mm.

    I have gotten it reasonably smooth but it is not as smooth as I want. The variation from a circle is fairly small but can still be seen.

    How do other people finish off this type of cut, I am also going to have the same problem later on in doing the arch on the top of the door.

    My current thinking is to turn up a circle the same size on a lathe then attach sandpaper to the outside and use this to sand the cut.

    Since I don't have a lathe at this time this is the expensive answer.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Pakenham, outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    4,158

    Default

    Gday mate, & welcome.

    A sanding drum, either solid or pneumatic, in a drill press comes to mind.

    You could do what you said, turn a disc on the lathe (a bit smaller than the radius of the curve), & attach sandpaper, something between the wood & the sandpaper with a bit of give could be worth considering, inner tube or somesuch?

    What about a router & template to do the actual truing up of the curve, or even cut it out with the router & a circle cutting jig?


    Cheers.......................Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Deception Bay / Brisbane
    Posts
    47

    Default

    Thanks Sean

    I am using a sanding drum around 60mm diameter and got it to this stage but it is not as good as I want. The imperfections are small but can still be seen if you look. Since this is a hobby I am not concerned over the time I spend I just want to make it as good as I can.

    What I am concerned about is explaining to shmbo that I need to buy a lathe just to finish off an edge, I am not certain she would understand.

    Good idea of the give under the sandpaper I will keep it in mind if I go that way.

    I thought of the template but don't have anything smooth enough of the correct size and to make it gives me back the original question. I did think of making a template using the lathe method and then keeping it for future use.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    48

    Default What makes the template a strong idea

    is that you can give it several tries. It's made from cheap material and isn't part of the finished product. If the first template isn't perfect enough, do another, and another, etc.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    70
    Posts
    2,735

    Default

    I had the same problem with finishing the arch in the sides of a step stool I made. Firstly I found it difficult to cut tight enough around the head of the arch and then my cut wasn't right on the line.

    I used a rasp to take the wood down to line and then hand sanded with various shaped blocks to cleanup the cut, however I wasn't entirely happy with the result. The main problem using the rasp was tear out on the arrises.

    I think trying to use a power sander rig to take the cut down to the line isn't going to work because my experience of trying to do detail work with sanders is they always manage to dig in where and when you dont want them to.

    I think for a perfect circle using the router circle jig would be the way to go. For my next attempt at a parabolic curve I think I will try a curve bottom spokeshave. I think a sharp spokeshave might provide more detail control than a rasp or sanding.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I'd use a router jig. I made a simple one out of 4mm MDF removed the router plate and fix the jig using the same screws. Then I just drill a hole at the desired radius tap a small brad through to the material and away I go. It works well and will cut a near perfect circle, arc every time. I haven't bothered to make it out of metal as I find that it's more useable to set the diameter where I want and when needed I simply make a new one. It's extremely hard otherwise to fix up a botched curve if it's not cut symmetrical.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Deception Bay / Brisbane
    Posts
    47

    Default

    Good idea, somehow I missed the idea of a router circle jig.

    I will try and have a go this weekend.

    Unfortunately the wife has something to say about tomorrow and today I am mowing the grass.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Hallidays Point - the land of blackbutt and swamp mahogany
    Posts
    412

    Default

    I think the idea of using a template with a router is a good one. You will probably still need to sand the curve.

    For this you don't need a lathe, as you had suggested, to turn something the same diameter. Just find something with a large diameter and wrap some sandpaper around it. A large drink bottle, for instance, or a tin can, even.
    "... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Deception Bay / Brisbane
    Posts
    47

    Default

    Thanks aspectdisplays I made up a simple router circle jig, made a template the correct size. Then used the template to finish up the radius I was working on.

    Came up nice, still needs a bit of sanding for the final finish but it worked great.

    Thanks for all the help

    Shame I thought I had a 'reason' for getting a new toy (lathe) now will have to wait for later.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Wrap a bit of coarse paper around the outside of the scrap cutout and use it as a black to hand sand.

    It won't take long then just work up through the grits to a fine finish
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    1,471

    Default

    I've seen Terry Gordon use one of his spokeshaves to do just this job. It was a beauty to watch. Can't guarantee that denncarm or myself would have the same skill in doing it.

    CP

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