Thread: screw tight to timber- loctite?

I'd just use lock-washers on the screws. Either internal- or external-tooth type, not helical spring washers.

Or use bolts and lock nuts if possible. I find those spring washers come loose after time (although this was the case when I used em in my car).

Alternatively you could use a sealant/adhesive over the top of the screw head (just make sure you fill the driver slot with cotton wool if you want to make it removable)

I'd guess the weak link will be the attachment of the screw to the wood, not the screw unwinding itself. So wood glue or epoxy in the hole seems best. I think loctite is for metal-to-metal adhesion, and might not work too well for metal-to-wood. For some redundancy and stability in the connection, use at least two screws at each bracket.

Joe

Originally Posted by joe greiner

I'd guess the weak link will be the attachment of the screw to the wood, not the screw unwinding itself. So wood glue or epoxy in the hole seems best. I think loctite is for metal-to-metal adhesion, and might not work too well for metal-to-wood. For some redundancy and stability in the connection, use at least two screws at each bracket.

Joe

Mike,

If you are using screws into wood, then I agree with Joe. Use an epoxy or something that is rated for metal to wood.

Just as an aside, loctite IS for metal to metal, usually to stop nuts undoing on bolts and loctite costs. As a substitute for loctite, I use nail polish on the thread of the bolt into the thread of the nut once the nut is tightened. Haven't had any work loose so far (fingers crossed) and the last one I did, has been in use for the past year.

Fletcher

supaglue???

Thaks for all the advice. I will try the wood glue into the wood hole that the metal screw will tighten into.

Cheers to all - love the forum.