Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 23
-
23rd September 2004, 04:04 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- St George area, Sydney
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 640
Is there a simple way to tune a mitre joint
I am having my first attempt at making some jewellery boxes for xmas and part of the design is a requires 2 mitred jarrah frames which will form the edges of the top and bottom.
I have milled the jarrah down to 45mmx12mm. The frames will be flat (like a 45mm wide picture frame)
I aligned my Triton workcentre (yes, I know) and cut some test pieces and all seemed OK. I used some double sided tape to join 2 pieces of jarrah together . I thought that this way if I made any slight measurement errors, if I kept the wood in pairs, I should still wind up with a good rectangle.
Now I have cut the wood and when doing a dry assembly find that despite all my efforts the joints are not quite square.
Is there a simple way of tuning the ends so the joints go together neatly?
I thought perhaps, making a 45 degree guide for my shooting board may be the best. I am reluctant to use my disk sander as I can see myself chasing down each joint till I end up with a tiny little box.
If this is the way to go, and bearing in mind my attempts to get a 45 degree mitre have not been successful- then how can I get an accurate 45 degrees for my shooting board?
Clint
-
23rd September 2004 04:04 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
23rd September 2004, 04:58 PM #2
Clint
What you want is a "Donley Ear" shooting board, or a Mitre Block. Here is a good link:
http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...ysearindex.htm
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
23rd September 2004, 05:10 PM #3Originally Posted by derekcohen- Wood Borer
-
23rd September 2004, 05:18 PM #4
"Donley Ear" = "Donkey Ear" = thick fingers on a Notebook. :eek:
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
24th September 2004, 10:17 AM #5
If you cut the two edges of the joint on opposite sides of the triton square the resulting join will always be 90° - even if the individual cuts are not 45°.
If face A of the square is at 43° to the saw blade then face B must be 47° (as the squares sides make a 90°). This means that if you cut one side on Face A, and the other side on Face B the joint will be square but the joint line may not be in the exact centre of the joint. The closer to 45° you get the better the joint looks.
A diagram would help but I'm not that cleverGreat minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people
-
24th September 2004, 11:17 AM #6
Dave, Something like this?? It will work if the error is small and the cut is greater then 45.
Clint, you need to reset you Tryton thing. Do test cuts until you get it to 45. Re-cut your work piece. However, if you first cut is less then 45 then your work piece will be smaller. (can someone else translate this for me please )
-
24th September 2004, 11:25 AM #7
What about this one?
-
24th September 2004, 02:58 PM #8
I'm not sure I agree that you can cut one at 43 and the other at 47 and still get a good mitre. There is more of a problem than just the line not being straight, the inside edge may not line up.
I have attached an exagerated picture (30 and 60 degrees) to emphasise the point.
SimonThey laughed when I said I was going to be a comedian. They're not laughing now.
Bob Monkhouse
-
24th September 2004, 03:13 PM #9
Good one simon - exactly what I meant. If you cut from both sides of the square the outside angle must be 90°.
The difference in the inside join is why it needs to be as close to 45° as possible, but still allow a 1-2° diff to not throw your frame out of square.Great minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people
-
24th September 2004, 03:14 PM #10
Simon
Have a look of my first picture. You need to plane the edges again to make them fit (red line). You will end up with something like this.
I am not saying that it is a good solution though.
Cheers
-
24th September 2004, 03:23 PM #11
The shooting board seems the best way to go.
- Wood Borer
-
24th September 2004, 07:01 PM #12
Today I have made six picture frames. All the mitre joints were cut on the Triton workcentre using the Triton protractor (square). The joints are all perfect.
DaveInOz gave the method. Just be careful with the preliminary setting up, make test cuts and most importantly do not allow the timber to move as the mitres are cut.
If you are not sure on the method I will gladly give a detailed description.
-
24th September 2004, 10:29 PM #13
More details please Sprog
Hi Sprog,
I would appreciate the extra details on cutting picture frames with the Triton please.
Interwood
-
24th September 2004, 11:34 PM #14
ClintO, The options provided in using a shooting mitre board makes good sense and not that expensive to cater for that is if you have the time available to avail yourself of the make-up there-in.
Another clean mitre option which I employ is that of the Guillotine ..not cheap but effective if doing numerous mitres.
Heavy sod of a thing but clean mitres every time with a single pass of the blade.
Another option only.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
-
25th September 2004, 12:02 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- St George area, Sydney
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 640
Thanks for all the feedback I might pursue the shooting board.
I was aware of the idea of cutting the mtres using both sides of the Triton mitre guide so the result will be a pair of angles adding to 90 deg. My main concern was to try and keep the lengths of the opposing sides equal by minimising the setups. There is not much point in getting 4 90 degree angles if the sides are the wrong length.
I'll keep persevering