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5th February 2019, 12:16 AM #16Member
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- Jan 2007
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- Aust
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- 54
FuzzieI'm wondering if the head is actually on the handle the right way round. The fact that a tapered shaft fit snuggly into a tapered hole doesn't seem right. Shouldn't the smaller hole be on the side of the insertion so that the wedged and expanded end will be on the outside to prevent the head flying off?
I think you are right
I used my vernier gauge and the Top of the metal head (ie w the wedge) oval shaped is smaller . Its 31mm wide by 41mm long.
The bottom of the metal head is 35mm wide by 43mm long.
So should i take it all apart again? or is the handle useless now .
Given it seems so tightly put in and I got some form of wedge in there, wouldnt that be enough? Also i have placed it on the handle the same way it originally came as a Trojan brand sledgehammer?
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5th February 2019 12:16 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th February 2019, 07:32 AM #17
Hi Dale,
Sorry but I can't definitively answer that question, I guess I haven't enough experience with sledge hammers to say the manufacturer did it wrong. I'm basing my suggestion on my experience with small hammer heads only where an off the shelf handle has never fit a head without adjustment and fitting.
Cheers,
<edit+>
Here's a link to a description of how somebody replaced a block splitter handle, which is the type of handle I believe you are trying to put into a sledge head.Franklin
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5th February 2019, 08:50 AM #18Member
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- Dec 2013
- Location
- Laharum Victoria
- Posts
- 45
Striking tools with an eye in the head have a smaller eye on the handle side and a larger eye on the outside to accommodate the wedge spread.
Two metal wedges or timber wedges are used at even spacing running across the head to ensure the handle spreads into the eye.
Before inserting the wedges, trim the handle 2 - 3 mm longer.
Slots need to be cut to for the timber wedges.
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