Thread: Sledgehammer Handle Replacement - Do you need wood and metal wedges?

My understanding of the purpose of the wedge is 2 fold.
It expands the wood on the head so:
1. It jams into the metal hole
2. It makes the wood expand and create a wider than hole so the head can’t come off accidentally.
The 2nd scenario usually works best if the timber sticks past the head, at least 10mm
But I’m not hammer/axe head expert


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Your wooden wedge has insufficient taper to so not only does that make it harder to get into the slot but the length of contact will be short so it will not have a lot of grip. If the wedge is say 30 mm long the difference in thickness between the thickness and thin end should only be about 1mm.

Most of the online videos showing the wedges going in all the way will be for handles made of a material that is likely to be softer than spotted gum. Even Hickory is softer than spotted gum.
When I use those 3 step metal wedges I usually open up the slot so that most of the first step sits in the slot without any pressure applied to it. When belting those wedges you can't afford to be hesitant with them but give them a fair whack or two - if they snap its no big deal.

Yes it is usually best to put a cut in the handle first. The metal one you used might work. Might, is a bit iffy when using a sledgehammer. A loose head smacking into ones shinbone would be unpleasant.

With workshop repairs on handles for axes or hammers or new
handles I prefer wood wedges over metal . If I worked out in the
bush with such tools though Id be having spare metal ones on hand
to repair or keep a tool going rather than wood wedges.

I just remember all the times Ive had to re tap metal ones back
in tight while working. I suppose I could add glue but that's only
in my workshop not with me outside.

Another thing I think is better is not wedging something in its middle.
I think it must split the wood for it to expand. Not much but its
something not needed . Sometimes you can see it under a head,
most times you cant but its got to be there. I prefer two cuts
and placing wedges closer to the sides with the cut running down
at an angle so the timber can flex out . With glue all around and in
the cut Ive never seen one move again. The head or the wedge.
I do the same on furniture with legs though tops when I do that sort
of work.

Timber wedges are not capable of the pounding in that a metal
wedge is of course, a bit more care is needed in fitting and judgement .
If you get that right it works well .

Rob

You may wish to look at this thread, certainly gives one some food for thought regarding how deep and where the wedge(s) will go.

Making a mallet or hammer handle

There was some years ago a terrific USA contributor to this forum, whose name escapes me now, who did a wonderful restoration on a hammer handle, really worth finding, if I could.

Mick.

If you can dig out the broken piece of the alloy wedge you could drill a series of holes very close to each other in a line across the handle to the depth that the wedge needs to go in. If you drilled them the size of the first step on the wedge and then opened up the top of the holes to suit the second step of the wedge you should be able to drive the wedge in as you have basically created a kerf similar to cutting a slot. The wedge will break away the remaining bits of wood between the holes as you drive it in but make sure you drill them so there is very little wood left between each hole. As Bob says, don't be hesitant when hammering the wedge in as solid blows will make it force its way through the remaining wood easier.

Wedge.JPG

Cheers for the responses guys,

so would i be overconfident thinking i had the luck that the handle happened to fit perfectly and is well expanded against the sides of the metal head w requiring re wedging?

Treecycle your method seems quite achievable if I want to retry and put another wedge in further

This was for an axe handle. I remember my father trying to replace the handle. Did not go well even with wedges. I eventually wound up with the axe and the head would fly off occasionally. I went and bought the appropriate handle for the axe. All I had to was drop the axe head over the handle. Then tap the axe on the ground to 'set' the handle. The wood was machined so that the head could slip on over the handle but not off.

I actually had a competent sales person at the home center that KNEW how to replace axe handles and taught me. (Lowe's)

I'm wondering if the head is actually on the handle the right way round. The fact that a tapered shaft fit snuggly into a tapered hole doesn't seem right. Shouldn't the smaller hole be on the side of the insertion so that the wedged and expanded end will be on the outside to prevent the head flying off?

I found a Hytest 14lb head lying in the back of my shed, it tapers both ways out from the centre so it shouldn't matter which way it's fitted to the handle. Having said that I think I would usually fit the handle in from the branded side.

Actually the smaller hole in the head is toward the handle. You just drop the head over the handle and tap it a few times by holding the handle and dropping it about 300MM to the floor. This causes the head to slide fully on to the taper.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

I'm wondering if the head is actually on the handle the right way round. The fact that a tapered shaft fit snuggly into a tapered hole doesn't seem right. Shouldn't the smaller hole be on the side of the insertion so that the wedged and expanded end will be on the outside to prevent the head flying off?

I just sent the images from my initial post to Cyclone.com.au support and they said it was on the right end and its meant to be belted down until the head comes up firm against the wider part of the shaft.

Here is a screenshot of the image of the blocksplitter, that this replacement handle is actually designed for

4-02-2019 12-53-16 PM.jpg

or go here

https://www.cyclone.com.au/product/g...blocksplitter/

and hover the magnifier over the image.

Original handle below

https://www.cyclone.com.au/product/g...-handle-800mm/

Dale I'm just concerned that the head went back on the new handle in the same orientation it came off the original handle. Did you note a flare in the hole through the head when you started? The head would drive on to a handle to a suitable looking point either way. If there is a flare and it is the wrong way around I would expect to see the sort of problem you have in that there is no room to insert a wedge that will spread the end of the handle to prevent the head coming off when you use it. The last thing you want is a couple of kilos of uncontrolled metal flying through the air when you swing the sledge hammer.

It would be fairly easy to check with calipers that the opening at the top is actually greater than the opening at the bottom even with the handle as now inserted.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Dale I'm just concerned that the head went back on the new handle in the same orientation it came off the original handle. Did you note a flare in the hole through the head when you started? The head would drive on to a handle to a suitable looking point either way. If there is a flare and it is the wrong way around I would expect to see the sort of problem you have in that there is no room to insert a wedge that will spread the end of the handle to prevent the head coming off when you use it. The last thing you want is a couple of kilos of uncontrolled metal flying through the air when you swing the sledge hammer.

It would be fairly easy to check with calipers that the opening at the top is actually greater than the opening at the bottom even with the handle as now inserted.

Hi Fuzzie

"Did you note a flare in the hole through the head when you started? "

one can never take enough photos! i should have taken some of the head. I did ensure that the end of the head that was most damaged which i saw as indicating its the end that was doing the hitting , is still the end thats doing the hitting now.

I have a vernier guage so will take some measurements at each end.

I have used it twice now to belt some posts into the ground, but thats hardly a long period of time or use.