Thread: Spindle moulder help????

No help from me...

...but I can't help but wonder what you're making? Wooden vacuum ducts?

hey ttit

just a thought, but i recon i would use a spindle to do the outside (any spindle should do this, even a router bit, spindle better but. Then i think you could use the saw as your drawing says, but instead of using a spindle in the middle, think i would just set a fence on the angle over the saw blade to finish the inside. would be fine if not doing heaps of lengths, me thinks other wise if you use the spindle i think you would have to support it to stop it cracking.
My thoughts sounds like a good chalenge

TTIT,

Vern have you ever heard of a tool called a lathe - they make square things round i'm told

Any way - back to the question - what is the thickness / length? If you could turn the outside round you could then split it in half and then make a cove cut until you get to the 10mm.

Thinking about it again it would be safer to make the cove cut in 2 halves, 70 X 35, glue them into a "square tube with a round hole" and then turn the outside round.

woodcutta

You would be able to use a spindle moulder but unless you have used one extensively in the past , suggest you have someone machine them for you

If this is solid timber and 10mm thick then there is at least 1 area of very short grain. I would expect this to explode on my spindle and would have to build a template so that it could be flipped to cut with the grain at all times, but then there would have to be two templates-one inside and one outside, just so the template was rigid enough. fixing to the templates would also be another issue as a few screws, pins or clamped would be insufficient.
A lathe seems the safest and most efficient way to do this job.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

No help from me...

...but I can't help but wonder what you're making? Wooden vacuum ducts?

Nah mate! - used PVC for them . These are about 400mm long for the cling-wrap dispensers I make.

Originally Posted by Stringy

...........
A lathe seems the safest and most efficient way to do this job.

I have been using the lathe until now (like this thread) but it is too time consuming which is why I'm looking to make them as a moulding.

Originally Posted by TTIT

Nah mate! - used PVC for them . These are about 400mm long for the cling-wrap dispensers I make.

Ahhh... I should've guessed!

I have been using the lathe until now (like this thread) but it is too time consuming which is why I'm looking to make them as a moulding.

Perhaps trenching out the inside on a table saw, and then using a custom coving bit on the router for cleanup?

A slow process for just one, but batching should be see good throughput and I'd imagine it'd be quicker (though fiddlier) than boring.

Then either knocking up a pair of plugs (or a wooden mandrel) to turn the outside on the lathe? Tape to hold two pieces together, until you round off enough for a couple of radiator clamps or something?

What about one of these, with a custom set of moulding blades.

Ahhh, now I see what you are doing, I thaught that they were rings with a 10mm wall and probably 10mm deep, serviette rings or something!

Definitely see this as a spindle moulder job as you could work with long runs of stock then cut to length. would not worry about sawing out the waste, just a couple of passes on the spindle.

I have an old combination machine with a 5hp spindle which has been excellent. A power feed for the spindle is also a must have!

Originally Posted by Stringy

...........Definitely see this as a spindle moulder job as you could work with long runs of stock then cut to length. would not worry about sawing out the waste, just a couple of passes on the spindle.

I have an old combination machine with a 5hp spindle which has been excellent. A power feed for the spindle is also a must have!

So you don't think it would be too savage a cut to make then????? Do any of the common spindle moulders come with a power feed ?????

Can it be coved on a table saw?

I was looking at purchasing a stand alone moulder due to using the one on my combination so much (I now purchase spindle cutters instead of router cutters as the spindle makes a nicer cut due to having a larger diameter cutter and a lot more rigid than the router, also dust extraction on the spindle is not a problem like that dirty b router! spindle is also relatively quiet compared to router).

I also don't look at new gear very often as I have 3phase power and good heavy old industrial gear is cheap compared to 240v machines, also the tooling seems cheaper for industrial gear rather than the hobby market. I like old heavy gear that will still be going long after I have expired!

They tend to come up quite regularly here and usually have the feeder still attached http://www.graysonline.com.au/sale.asp?SALE_ID=52202 (scroll down to see a casedi with feeder, they tend to go for between $1k-$1.2k probably the biggest issue is if you have 3phase! Also you can have a tilting spindle and sliding mortising table-less common and start to get up in the $'s.

Woodcutta has a 240v jet moulder, he may be able to shed some light on it's capability!

The amount of material that can be removed in a single pass; My kitchen bench top has a 40mm high lip leading into the splashback at the rear, this was a 20mm deep x 40mm high cut in tallow wood (hard and tough) in a single pass at a slow walking pace, the cupboard doors are raised panel, solid stringy bark a 140mm diameter raised panel cutter was used with back cutter in a single pass, the cut extends 45mm into the panel and is 10mm deep at the heel, 4mm at the toe.

Just found a piece of scrap tallow wood I used to set up my spindle moulding job. This shows a trench 40mm wide x 20mm deep cut in 1 pass, which is not far off the amount of material you need to remove. Also included a scrap of raised panel and cutter.
Attachment 95264

Thanks for the info. I visited a local cabinet-maker today and showed him what I was trying to do. He's got a moulder there that might be able to do it in one pass - or not at all - depends if his main machinist reckons the end result will be strong enough to handle the pressure of the feeder arrangement. It's a lot of money to cough up for custom knives just to see if it will work though - none of the knives in his collection will do it straight up. Will let you know what's happening once we talk to the machinist.