Thread: Spotted gum or Lemon Scented Gum

Yes, but you need to glue them pretty quickly after cleaning the joining areas with acetone.

Also what is the best finish to use on the finished table?

We used polyurethane glue at my old work without any solvent cleaning, never had an issue.

I've had success with both Titebond 2 and Purbond. My only glue up failure I attribute to user error, it was with Purbond and I made two mistakes - I tried to glue up too much in one go (6 boards to make a 1.2x0.6m counter top) and one of the boards wasn't jointed properly so I think I applied too much clamping pressure and the Purbond had started going off. No acetone or cleaning - but I do take a light pass with a handplane just before the glue up.

Sanded to 240 and finished with Danish oil or Osmo PolyX clear extra thin looks nice. It's a darker timber so oil based finishes with a yellowish tinge enhance the color of the wood. Both are wipe on, wait a bit, wipe off applications so it's about as easy as it gets. Photo is of a spotted gum bench with white oak butterflies. I only sanded this one to 180 and only did 1 coat of Osmo before it went into service, it's a very matte finish and it doesn't leave a film so you can feel the timber. One day I will sand this to 240 and apply two coats of Osmo or other hardwax oil.

Only glued once. This oily thing didn't cross my mind and Sellys external Aquadhere worked no problem.

David,
As some say they have got away with just a strait glue up but for the few seconds a wipe with acetone takes would that not be worth the peace of mind. I first learned the acetone trick back when I made archery bows as due to the stress involved you really wanted the glue joint to be as good as possible. Generally the good glue up practice is freshly planed surfaces and if oily wood then clean with acetone or spirit.
As to the best finish well that depends on the situation like indoor or outdoor. The look you want is also a consideration. There are finishes for all situations and looks so pick what suits. I find the oil finishes quite easy to do and also easy to redo down the track.
Regards
John

David

There are probably quite a few requirements and quite a few recommendations regarding Spotted Gum. I have not had any problems but I have always ensured the timber is freshly surfaced either with a plane/planer or by sanding. I also use as much pressure as I can with the PVA type glues (Different if you are using epoxy). Usually it is Titebond 3, but just recently I have used a Selleys equivalent as I had run out of Titebond.

Bootle's book "Wood in Australia" emphasises the need to use about 1000KPa clamping pressure and in an ambient temperature of 20 degs C or more. I have usually followed that although I don't know what the clamping pressure is: Just as much as I can get. I will from now on use the acetone wipe too as I didn't know about that, although that level of attention may well be dependant on the amount of stress on the timber in use such as laminated bends (archery bows etc as John said).

Also you should be aware that the sapwood is very susceptible to Lyctus attack and needs to be treated or removed. Much of the above comment is applicable to the denser timbers in general. One more thing from Bootle's book is to ensure the timber is absolutely dry.

Regards
Paul

Tried two glued samples, one with acetone wipe, the other without. Left for 24 hrs under clamping, prized "without "apart easily without any grain pull. The other with acetone wipe, came apart with some grain pull. Used Titebond 3, but I dont think the wood is totally dry as the moisture meter indicates 12 to 15 percent. Am considering using an apoxy glue on a sample piece to see if any improvement. Also will clamp for a longer time.