Thread: Squaring up panels?

Draw the complete square on first making sure you check diagonals to check it is square. Measure the distance from the blade on your circular saw to the edge of the base plate. Mark this distance inside the square. Clamp a level or straight edge along this line. Rip straight along the line keeping the base of the saw against the straight edge, easiest way to cut a straight line on board there is if you don't have a sliding table with outrigger.

Just to add, use pythagoras to get the right angles initially if you don't have a large framing square. Commonly called the 3,4,5 rule where if you draw a right angle triangle with a base of 300mm and a height of 400mm the hypotenuse will be 500mm long if it is a true right angle. The larger the measurements you use the more accurate this is so if you are cutting a board 1000mm long use 600mm, 800mm and 1000mm.

Thanks, Burnsy, I can see how that would help, I'll try some of that out tomorrow.

Not a problem, it is the easiest way, great for cutting the ends on decking boards or any other place where you want long accurate straight cuts. Set it up right and don't even bother to look at the line you want to cut along, concentrate on keeping the saw base hard up against the edge, you will be surprised how easy it is and it gives an exceptionally straight line.

And with Burnsy's method, once you've clamped your guide you can run some masking tape over the cutting line to reduce chipping.

Tex

Also to reduce chipping raise the blade in the saw until it is no more than the cutting tooth deeper than the timber you are cutting. This way the teeth at the back of the blade are not travelling out of the new cut at nearly 90 degrees as they would be if the blade was right out, this is what causes excessive tear out.

Do you have a Router? If so it can also be used.

Hey Burnsy when ya coming to get this Weeping Mulbury tree. I sent you a PM early this week.

See ya
Rod

PM sent Rod

Great project Richard

my dad made me a train table when I was small.
However, he used something like 3 or 5mm ply supported on a grid of 25x25 ribs — much like a torsion box without a bottom skin
the great benefit was that it was light enough for an 8 year old to put up and down by himself

I encourage you to buy a 1000 or 1200 steel rule to use as straight edge



ian

Nice one, Ian, I've been wanting a long steel rule, and you've just given me the excuse!

My boy's only two. This table is a semi permanent fixture on the back deck, so its supposed to be heavy so that the kids can lean on it without it moving around. It has a wooden train layout permanently laid out 'inside' the table, set in about 100mm, a lid to put on top when you want to do painting or such, and a drawer underneath to keep all the junk in.

Originally Posted by ian

I encourage you to buy a 1000 or 1200 steel rule to use as straight edge

I don't recommend using a steel rule as a straight edge as I described unless it is one of the reinforced ones that have a rib down one side. A circular saw base will slide straight over the average steel rule no problems at all.

Richard

I don't know where you get your ply, but here in Sydney, the Mr Ply&Wood outlet I use has an Altendorf panel saw on site and I get him to beak the sheets down into the dimensions I want or pieces I can easily chop up at home.


ian

Burnsy,
I was thinking of using the straight edge to mark score lines to plane up to.


ian