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Thread: Stair and roof calculator
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28th October 2005, 05:17 PM #1
Stair and roof calculator
Hi
I wrote stair and roof calculators, that run free online at
http://www.blocklayer.com/Roof/ and
http://www.blocklayer.com/Stairs/
I would appreciate any feedback on whether they work ok, and improvements or additions I could add. I'm a blocklayer (north QLD), so I dont actualy use them, just write them.
Thanks for any feedback
Greg
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28th October 2005 05:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th October 2005, 10:40 PM #2Hammer Head
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You are the smartest Bricky in the world, that stuff is spot on.
How about making the stair calulator work for timber stairs, so the tread is set back off the stringer and the top of the stringer goes over the edge of the 2nd floor.
Good Job, i will be book marking it for futre use.
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28th October 2005, 10:57 PM #3Registered
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Originally Posted by Gaza
Al
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28th October 2005, 11:00 PM #4Hammer Head
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Alright correction "one of the smartest brickes"
We have enough trouble with them putting in steel door frames square and walls stright, plus then there is Peeing off the scafflod.
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29th October 2005, 05:54 AM #5Member
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Well done Greg
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29th October 2005, 08:56 AM #6
Well done Greg, its good stuf.
If your smart enough to do that how about a decking calculator (cause I keep stuffing it up).
And a calculator for converting cost per cubic meter to cost per liner meter (cause I keep stuffing it up too).Specializing in O positive timber stains
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29th October 2005, 10:40 AM #7
Just building a small set of stairs now.
Your calculations look excellent to me.
I particularly like the stringer size, for the only way I could work that out was actually draw a plan to scale.
The roof looks pretty good too, but will have to do my own calculations to confirm; as I'm about to build a small structure.
You might want to throw in a few more angle diagrams to show each angle cut.
I would also want to play with the creeper shortening as well.
Very impressive.
Pulpo
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29th October 2005, 12:18 PM #8
Thanks for all the replies. I'd like to make the stair calculator work better for timber, but dont know how it should work. Can someone suggest a good book I can learn from, and a book to learn other stuff like decks so I can build an all round calculator site. I'll also look at drawing more detailed cut info with the roof calculator. Would also appreciate confirmation that the roof calculations are accurate, especialy first creeper length, which is easy to get wrong. Any ideas for other calculators would also be appreciated. They'll all be available free online. Thanks again for the feedback
Greg
PS: If you want to find out if a bricky is smart or not, ask them to complete the blocklayers apptitude test here
http://www.blocklayer.com/AptitudeTest.aspx
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29th October 2005, 11:52 PM #9
Nice work Greg
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31st October 2005, 09:08 AM #10harcx
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Greg
Great work
One small thing.
You note a width of 1000; according to the some codes this is the minimum width between handrails.
So, if the stair is against a wall say for example and there is a handrail on the wall then at a minimum the stair width measurement starts 90mm from the wall (50 knuckle clearance + 40 handrail. From there the 1000 min width needs to be added followed by consideration of the outer handrail. If this is face fixed to the side of the stringer then the total width can be 1090 min but if another railing arrangement is used the width might have to be increased.
Mabye a note needs to be added to draw users attention to the clear width requirement.
Thanks for the site. It's in my favourites
HarcX
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31st October 2005, 10:38 AM #11
The books I have used a few times are Alain staines.
He has written a few.
Any or all should give some guidance.
In the next couple of weeks will be checking my measurements with yours for the roof.
At a quick glance it seems ok.
Good luck
Pulpo
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31st October 2005, 02:09 PM #12Member
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"I'd like to make the stair calculator work better for timber"
I can't see how you can Greg, it looks fine to me. The [what is the term?] margin between the tread and the stringer edge is usually 2" to allow the stringer to notch over the floor, as all know. We were taught that a "comfortable" rise was from 6 1/2" to 7 1/4". I never knew what angle the stairs were set as I always used a roofing square to set them out. Was that term called the "going line" -- The memory fades with age
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1st November 2005, 08:00 PM #13
There's some new simple calculators to convert cubic metres/cost to lineal metres/cost here
http://www.blocklayer.com/WoodCalc.aspx
Are they set up ok? Are they accurate and what needs to be changed/added to make them usefull?
Thanks for any feedback
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11th November 2006, 10:19 PM #14Novice
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awsome.
EXACTLY what ive spent the last 2 hours trawling the web for. Thanks
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12th November 2006, 01:22 PM #15
Anybody Want to Translate for a Texan?
First, though, Greg, that is one excellent web site. Thanks for taking the time and for sharing it with us.
Now, would one of you fellas please 'splain which part of that hip roof framing is a creeper? That's not a term I've run across in conjunction with carpentry in my 6-1/2 decades. Now, I've heard of sleepers (being the same as joists, whether in a ceiling or a floor) but never creepers. And, I can't quite figger it out from the dimensions given for it.
Again, helluva good job, Greg!
rabbit