Thread: What is the 'standard' t track size?

What are the most useful T track accessories? Basically just need something to hold down with vertical force and see that there a few different types.

Anything else that is easily overlooked but comes in useful?

Originally Posted by qwertyu

What are the most useful T track accessories? Basically just need something to hold down with vertical force and see that there a few different types.

Anything else that is easily overlooked but comes in useful?

Feather boards are useful for router tables and tablesaws.
You can easily make these yourself.
feathers-1.jpg

Quick release toggle style clamp downs are useful but I don't have any that fit a T-track just one that fits holes in my DP table.

I also made an overhead centre-hole-less circle cutter that uses T-track.
AlCjig1.jpg

Originally Posted by qwertyu

What are the most useful T track accessories? Basically just need something to hold down with vertical force and see that there a few different types.

Anything else that is easily overlooked but comes in useful?

I have a set of these that came with T nuts and threaded rods . I had to get a different thread which would work on the Whitworth 1/2 holes in the cast table and it holds stuff down well. I got one of the 58 piece sets.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Clamp-Kits

Originally Posted by auscab

I have a set of these that came with T nuts and threaded rods . I had to get a different thread which would work on the Whitworth 1/2 holes in the cast table and it holds stuff down well. I got one of the 58 piece sets.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Clamp-Kits

I have one of those clamp sets I use on my metal working mill but they are so handy I decided to make a DP table that can use them.
I use it mainly for metals but I have used it with small wooden pieces.
The DP table is made from a 20 mm thick piece of steel I picked up from the scrap steel box at a local metal merchant.
BTW it doesn't need to be 20 mm thick - something like 10mm would be more than adequate especially on a lighter weight DP.
I added an array of 5/16" threaded holes that fit standard 5/16" male repositionable handles which lock the clamps in place.

Like my wooden DP table, this table is held from underneath by a 125mm cross sliding vice which allows me to make positional adjustments.
Unless a sacrificial piece of say timber is used underneath the stock being drilled the table is used so that the bit passes through the centre hole.
DPtable2.jpg

Work pieces adjustment is made by loosening the clamp handle and moving the workpiece underneath the bit.
For more accurate positioning I use what is known as a spring loaded centre finder that is put into the chuck and spots into the centre punch spot.
Then the finder is replaced by the bit.
DPtable1.jpg

DPtable3.jpg

Those photos above were taken before the steel was blued - this is what it looks like now.
DPTableBlued.jpg

A bit off the original topic but very good to see. I've committed that information to the memory bank.

Ended up getting the timbecon tracks as they were cheapest. Apparently M6 bolts fit in them but I have a bunch of these you guys think it's suitable if used a grinder to make the head a bit smaller?

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trying to think of ways to make a stop block for my T track which is going into the mitre station with no fence (like wood whisperer set up). any thoughts of my plan here:
stop.jpg


Right of the image is where the saw will be

Are wing nuts going to be tight enough or will i need a knob?

I think grinding those down would work.

Are there different types of M6 bolts? The ones I got definitely didn't fit. I double checked and it is the same product.

Originally Posted by qwertyu

Apparently M6 bolts fit in them

You should have asked them to demonstrate that. Anything for a sale eh. The other type of bolts that may work quite well with minimum grinding are M6 cup head bolts.

Mnb - the M6 bolt you tried, did it not fit in width or height? Looking at the track, it would need to be a fairly shallow hex head to fit I reckon but I havent tried. I dont really have an issue with grinding something down though.

Qwertyu, you are correct that it wasn't shallow enough. I believe it would be OK ground down though I haven't tried yet.

It's not that I won't be able to sort something out but it was the first time I ordered online from a woodworking shop, my first buy from them and the whole point was the convenience and simplicity.

Yep, either standard M6 hex heads fit or they don't, clearly they don't! So why would they say they do? Yes, you were dudded Mnb.