Thread: Stopping rust on hand tools and machinery

I'm about a 10 minute walk to the beach, and everything here gets covered in a lovely salty film.

I don't have a lot of tools or machinery, but sure enough within about 2 weeks of moving into this house they started rusting.

Not knowing much about what to use, I remembered my grandfather use to,and uncle still does spray everything thats metal with fish oil. It's been over 2 1/2 years now that I've been doing it, and no more rust. When I buy something new, I give it and everything else a quick spray.

It seems to work well, and doesn't appear to effect the operation of the tools (not that I'd know any different). The only draw back is that it absolutely STINKS for a few days......SWMBO loves it

I'm about a 10 minute walk to the beach, and everything here gets covered in a lovely salty film.

I don't have a lot of tools or machinery, but sure enough within about 2 weeks of moving into this house they started rusting.

Not knowing much about what to use, I remembered my grandfather use to,and uncle still does spray everything thats metal with fish oil. It's been over 2 1/2 years now that I've been doing it, and no more rust. When I buy something new, I give it and everything else a quick spray.

It seems to work well, and doesn't appear to effect the operation of the tools (not that I'd know any different). The only draw back is that it absolutely STINKS for a few days......SWMBO loves it

While i am very happy with Camelia oil for my hand tools, I do have one other "trick" that seems to work very well for my steel planes. I have fitted one of my shelves in the tool cupboard with a "feltex" covering. I doused this liberally with WD40. I store said planes face down on this lovverly soft, non scratchy pad and have never had a spot of rust on the soles. Have to clean up the sides occasionally where my acid laden skin has caused some corrossion. Live only 5 mins from beach.
jacko

I also use Camellia oil (or at least I think it is because the bottle only has writing in Japanese on it) and have found it to be very good for hand tools.

I haven't tried Camilla oil, but next time I run into Bonnie Prince Charlie, I ask him if it is any good

Originally Posted by Pete J

I haven't tried Camilla oil, but next time I run into Bonnie Prince Charlie, I ask him if it is any good

Parker few Bowles of it in your workshop

I am a member of the Tool Appreciation Group special interest group of the ACT Woodcraft Guild (ie hand and unusual tool users). Some of the keener guys are dealers and regularly get old poor condition tools and use electrolysis to remove (bad) rust.

The advice they give for further rust prevention on chisels, planes etc is to use a mixture of:

boiled linseed oil
turpentine
beeswax

on the tools. It is good for both the metal and wooden parts.

I checked on this again this morning by talking to one of the experts, and he advises that the mixture should be put onto warm metal parts (ie not cold - just heated up in the sun is fine).

Cheap and effective.

Cheers

Well I went al the way thru this post with little or no interst (two reasons 1. too hot, 2. large wound on back from cancer removal ( I hope!)) but got to the one about linseed, beeswax and (what was the other?, oh yeah Turpentine) and remember my Dad saying that it will do everything, so goes to prove a good old mix is often the best!!!!


BTW I have never mixed it up, too lazy!!!!!



Gaz

Originally Posted by numbat

The advice they give for further rust prevention on chisels, planes etc is to use a mixture of:

boiled linseed oil
turpentine
beeswax

on the tools.

What ratios - equal parts?:confused:

Originally Posted by numbat

The advice they give for further rust prevention on chisels, planes etc is to use a mixture of:

boiled linseed oil
turpentine
beeswax

on the tools.

What ratios - equal parts?:confused:

I am not sure but try mixing a small batch of 1/4 linseed, 1/4 beeswax and then turps. It should stay in solution - ie liquid in this form.

I will enquire further and post back.

Cheers

Here is a partial answer - will post more as I get it.

Mix the turps and BLO (boiled linseed) in roughly (very roughly) even proportions and then try to stir in some beeswax chips. Another expert adamantly sticks to raw linseed.


But info on BBs that BLO is the preferred oil.



One thing to be careful of is that linseed and turps soaked rags have been
known to spontaneously combust so store & dispose of them carefully.


Cheers

My bandsaw table always formed a fine layer of rust until i gave it a good scrub with the wire brush in the angle grinder and polished it with the Ubeaut Traditional Wax. It hasn't looked like forming any rust since I did this.

Luke

Many woodworkers in this country have the same problem and another simple solution is to keep the tools in a cabinet with a low voltage light 15W usually, switched on over night in the base of the cabinet. The heat from that is usually sufficient to stop the condensation from the cold night air forming on the tools. Or even a low voltage panel heater on a timer for the workshop. Thats assuming you get cold night air over there.

beejay1

Hmmm wide bay, nice bid shed, no aircon.
The place would get nice & warm during the day followed by a relieveing sea brease at night. Condentasion, humidity salt air, Rust heaven.

You will have your work cut out here. Guess what the naughty boys get to do for detention?