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25th July 2017, 11:44 PM #46Senior Member
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It will be ok, 52 tooth on a blade that small is plenty. Do a scoring cut first, and you'll have practically no chip out, not that a track saw has much anyway. If your plunge saw has a scoring function it's easy to do, otherwise set the cut depth to 1-2mm for the first pass.
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25th July 2017, 11:57 PM #47Senior Member
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The melamine that Bunnings sell (CustomPine) is fine, it's made by Borg at their Oberon factory. Aussie product to Aust standards.
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26th July 2017, 08:04 AM #48
https://youtu.be/ItM_GHj6xso
https://youtu.be/-jDQANoRHwI
That first link is a more practical don't have the right tools vid.
And the next one is Dave Hughes from Australia showing us how to do it properly as suggested here with a scribe cut first. Although tlhe blade he is using is $300
Dave also has a vd showing building a drawer box with pocket hole screws I wonder if we would suggest I use packet holes screws on the large melamine cabinets as well ? If so, With or without the Gorilla Melamine Glue?
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26th July 2017, 08:36 AM #49Taking a break
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Absolutely do not use pocket holes on cabinets. You'll have about 6mm of useful thread and it will just fall apart.
Melamine boxes should be pre-bored and screwed through the sides with 50mm screws, glue isn't necessary
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26th July 2017, 11:42 AM #50Senior Member
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50mm Confirmat/director screws are designed specifically for carcase construction, but you need a stepped drill bit designed for these. They're more important for free standing RTA furniture than cabinets you can fix to the wall.
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26th July 2017, 12:08 PM #51Taking a break
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No need for fancy confirmat screws, they're actually designed for fully CNC bored panels (5mm edge bored as well), normal countersunk chipboard screws with a 3mm pilot hole are fine
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26th July 2017, 12:26 PM #52
Allboard mentioned they sell more of the self counter sinking that have 4 tips under the head to the professionals.
Maybe its because they are faster?
I'm hoping to use a bit with a depth collar for predripp and the 3mm counter sink in one setup.
Then use the phillips head bit to screw in.
Carbatec confirmed its best to scribe the melamine no matter which melamine saw blade you pick.
They also suggest a Triple chip blade.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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26th July 2017, 01:44 PM #53Woodworking mechanic
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The advice given above on drilling pilot holes into the melamine edge is spot on - DAMHIK. Also make sure it's the correct size for the screw being used.
I found the info on this site excellent
http://tradeessentials.thelaminexgro...20brochure.pdf
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26th July 2017, 01:57 PM #54Senior Member
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They sell more countersunk chipboard screws because they're cheaper and usually hidden. They do chip out on the face if you don't countersink the hole but that is hidden with plastic caps on exposed surfaces. All depends on where it's being used, many kitchen builders assemble cabinets with 16GA brads because there's minimal lateral loading on them when installed wall to wall and they're fixed though the back into studs. I'd never build them like that, but plenty do.
Predrill and countersink you'll have no problems. I use a drywall screw setter bit with chipboard screws so I don't overdrive the screws in my haste to put cabs together without checking the torque setting on the driver drill. That $2 bit has saved me more more than once.
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26th July 2017, 04:16 PM #55
Spot on, again, Richmond.
When I have tried to take short cuts and not pre-drill I have had problems:
- chipboard splits, or
- screw drives at an angle and may "hump" the melamine.
Also, when screwing into side grain its best to be at least 50,, from end of the chipboard.
Cheers
Graeme
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26th July 2017, 04:21 PM #56
I had deduced they were faster.
OK. Corrected.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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26th July 2017, 06:53 PM #57Taking a break
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Correct x2, but I don't know if you'll find a triple chip that small
Melamine is also one of the things where blade projection can make a big difference. I remember reading a while ago from one of the big manufacturers that they optimize their blades for about 15mm projection through the material being cut.
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26th July 2017, 07:13 PM #58Woodworking mechanic
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Irwin do a small 160mm triple chip blade - called aluminium plus. Available from Bunnies. Can be used on wood and melamine.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/irwin-16...blade_p6320513
Link addedLast edited by Lappa; 26th July 2017 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Add link
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26th July 2017, 09:29 PM #59
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26th July 2017, 09:31 PM #60
All suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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