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28th July 2017, 08:04 PM #76Woodworking mechanic
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- Sydney Upper North Shore
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Fixing to the wall is a good idea in my opinion (mine are) but corner units can be a problem if the corners are not exactly square. That's where end dress panels come into their own (you use shims at the back), on bought squared units or you can build the cabinets to suit. Take that into account before making the cabinets.
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28th July 2017, 09:06 PM #77
fixing to the wall is a whole different design consideration.
Normal free standing cabinets would sit on a plinth (or feet) and be tied to the wall just for stability.
the primary load bearing members would be the sides of each box, with the backs there mostly to keep the construction square.
In particular the shelves or drawers and doors would hang off the sides.
If you are going to attach the cabinet backs to the wall, you are assuming that the wall is flat and straight and that you can find the studs first time every time. In an older house, this is often a bit hit and miss.
You are also needing to redesign your cabinets so that the cabinet backs are load bearing and that this load can be transferred to the cabinet sides.
If I were contemplating this, I'd attach horizontal battens to the wall that were shimmed so that they were all in the same vertical plane.
I'd then hang the cabinets off the battens, meaning that the plinth was only there as a construction aid. To be removed once all the cabinets were installed.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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28th July 2017, 09:30 PM #78Senior Member
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- Apr 2012
- Location
- Thornton NSW
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- 456
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29th July 2017, 10:02 AM #79
Thanks gents.
Ordered the 2400 x 1200 for all the backs.
Ordered the single edges panels for the wall cabinet carcass's only.
We'll decide on what material and colour and exact measurements to make the doors once the cabinets carcass's have been finalised.
The shop assistant was telling me the panels 450mm they will use only 3 50mm screws.
So Im thinking placing a 50mm screw every 200mm starting 50mm in from the tops and bottoms.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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30th July 2017, 11:24 AM #80Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
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- 4,470
All my 750mm high cabinets only have 3 screws, plus glue, and screws start 75 mm in from the ends, as outlined in that link I provided earlier
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30th July 2017, 02:00 PM #81
Both the shop guy and another cabinet maker confirmed 50mm while I was there.
75mm is just another inch.
So no less that 50mm.
Will go with 75mm.
I think I decided not to glue.
So every 200mm without glue.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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30th July 2017, 03:56 PM #82
OK destroyed my first attempt as a cross cut sled cause I don't have the right tools and know how.
Started off with 12mm ply scrap to mess up on. Mission accomplished.
Was trying to make du with a 1/4" shank 8mm V groove.
Too many passes and not enough leverage, etc.
Now moving to a 19mmm ply.
With a dado set.
I'm looking for a dado set for my Dewalt DWE9491-XE (extended table)
The arbour (Blade Bore) size is 16mm.
I can't find the arbour length.
I found this:
DEWALT DWE7402DI Dado Throatplate for 10-Inch Portable Table Saw
And: Amazon questions for the DWE4791RS (Rolling stand)
"Question:
Does this saw accept dado blade set?
Answer:
Yes, you will need the Dado Throat Plate which is DeWalt Part Number DWE7402D1. Per DeWalt, do not attempt to stack dado blades thicker than 13/16" (20mm). Do not use dado blades larger than 8" (200mm) diameter. Since dado cuts are not thru-cuts, the cuts must be performed with the blade guard assembly removed. To remove the blade guard assembly, pull riving knife/blade guard release lever and pull up on the guard or riving knife to remove. When using the dado, the special dado insert (also sold as an accessory) must be used."Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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31st July 2017, 12:43 AM #83Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Thornton NSW
- Posts
- 456
Barry, there's an unused Dewalt dado set for sale near me, look on Gumtree for dewalt dw7670 in Morpeth NSW. I'd be happy to collect and post it to you so long as you cover the costs. Send me a PM if you want to follow up on it.
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31st July 2017, 01:02 AM #84
Barry
Why do you need to cut a dado to build your cross cut sled?
Normally you just screw runners to the underside of a largish, squarish ply off-cut
The runners are sawn to fit the miter slots on your table saw.
If the dado set is to rebate the melamine -- can I suggest you think again.
also, I'm not sure how you intend balancing a 2.4 long sheet of melamine on your table saw while you cut out your cabinet components.
If you can get square corners on your uprights and backs using a circular saw, the same setup will also give you square shelves.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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31st July 2017, 08:52 AM #85
Thanks richmond68.
Many thanks for the find and the offer.
I've already purchased that one a few minutes after posting.
He should be sending it today.
Let me know if I can do anything for you from Melbourne.
Hi Ian,
The dado stack is for cutting trenching in the 18mm ply for track for the sled. Instead of using the router. grrrr
I've got the Paulk 2440x1220 workbench and a plunge saw with a brand new blade, posted here, and already fitted to manage the 2440mm x 1220mm sheets
I spent all my research energy on the cabinetry.
And had to get into the shop before I lost my mind.
Where I lost my confidence after forgetting all my practical knowledge of my router.
I was sure I could sort it out as I went along.
Nope.
So back to researching.
Cross cut sled. Setting it up as accurate as possible.
Where the widest practical workpiece is 595. (not counting the 900mm and 1200mm cabinet backs)
Back fence of 18mm x 2 laminated
Front fence of 18mm x 2 laminated
Calculating 595 + (18x4) = 667
So planning of rounding up to 700 deep at this stage.
No thoughts as to the width.
Max. Ripping Capacity [right] 825 mm = 32 1/2 “
Max. Ripping Capacity [left] 558 mm = 22”
Left mitre slot. 152 from single blade
Right mitre slot 157 from single blade
Left support table 953 from single blade
Right support table 967 from single blade
Mitre slot depth - 10.2mm
Mitre slot width - 19.5mm
I could do this:
Make the Ultimate Router Jig for Dados & Slots
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gnsthXtrtc
Or kinda over the router thing needing to buy more bits for more money than that dado stack.
Again, trying to "up my game" with something like this:
https://nickferry.com/2015/07/table-...d-in-one-ep58/
Dado Duel--Which is faster: Router or Tablesaw? - WOOD magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUdQ_k-cT7kThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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31st July 2017, 10:21 AM #86
Barry
while a cross-cut sled is a handy thing to have, for your project the Paulk bench, circular saw and guides should be fine.
If you are breaking down 2400 x 1200 sheets to build your cabinets you need to achieve long straight splinter free cuts and 90 degree corners otherwise the finished cabinets will look like crap.
the same set-up can then be used cutting the shelves.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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31st July 2017, 11:32 AM #87
Setting up the plunge saw for 2400mm cuts is a PITA!
Having to make a 2mm pass then turn over and make another 2mm pass in the exact same spot is not going to be fun.
So gotta work on my technique again.
The melamine is cut at 2440 and 1220.
The edges are really rough.
So I'll have to cut all 4 sides for the backs.
Only 5 in all.
The same for the pre-edged work pieces.
I'll have to cut all 3 sides.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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1st August 2017, 12:24 AM #88
What I have is a festool MFT 1080 table and some Parf dogs.
In conjunction with the MFT's grid of 20 mm holes, it's easy to align a guide rail (or batten) for 90 degree cuts.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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1st August 2017, 04:42 PM #89
Paulk WorkBench
IMG_0753.jpg
Dewalt Contractors JobSite Saw
IMG_0752.jpgThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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1st August 2017, 10:12 PM #90
Hi Barry
what I suggest you do is screw a series of battens and stops to your work bench.
Take your time and make sure that everything is a right angles and that the stops will position both sides of a panel in the same position relative to the rail or batten you are using to guide the saw.
If you want to preserve the top of your bench place a piece of 6mm MDF under the whole of every 2400 x 1200 sheet.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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