Thread: Large Storage Room Cabinets - Suggestions Appreciated

Originally Posted by barrysumpter

Now that I've seen this, I'm wondering if I should fix the back panels to the studs in the wall, the end side panels to the wall and the inner side panels to each other?

And if I use feet I'd have to redesign the bottoms for the full width and depth.



Attachment 417243

fixing to the wall is a whole different design consideration.

Normal free standing cabinets would sit on a plinth (or feet) and be tied to the wall just for stability.
the primary load bearing members would be the sides of each box, with the backs there mostly to keep the construction square.
In particular the shelves or drawers and doors would hang off the sides.


If you are going to attach the cabinet backs to the wall, you are assuming that the wall is flat and straight and that you can find the studs first time every time. In an older house, this is often a bit hit and miss.
You are also needing to redesign your cabinets so that the cabinet backs are load bearing and that this load can be transferred to the cabinet sides.
If I were contemplating this, I'd attach horizontal battens to the wall that were shimmed so that they were all in the same vertical plane.
I'd then hang the cabinets off the battens, meaning that the plinth was only there as a construction aid. To be removed once all the cabinets were installed.

Originally Posted by barrysumpter

Now that I've seen this, I'm wondering if I should fix the back panels to the studs in the wall, the end side panels to the wall and the inner side panels to each other?

Yes, no and yes. Remember to allow room in corners for building movement.

Thanks gents.

Ordered the 2400 x 1200 for all the backs.
Ordered the single edges panels for the wall cabinet carcass's only.

We'll decide on what material and colour and exact measurements to make the doors once the cabinets carcass's have been finalised.

The shop assistant was telling me the panels 450mm they will use only 3 50mm screws.
So Im thinking placing a 50mm screw every 200mm starting 50mm in from the tops and bottoms.

All my 750mm high cabinets only have 3 screws, plus glue, and screws start 75 mm in from the ends, as outlined in that link I provided earlier

Both the shop guy and another cabinet maker confirmed 50mm while I was there.

75mm is just another inch.

So no less that 50mm.
Will go with 75mm.

I think I decided not to glue.
So every 200mm without glue.

OK destroyed my first attempt as a cross cut sled cause I don't have the right tools and know how.
Started off with 12mm ply scrap to mess up on. Mission accomplished.
Was trying to make du with a 1/4" shank 8mm V groove.
Too many passes and not enough leverage, etc.


Now moving to a 19mmm ply.
With a dado set.

I'm looking for a dado set for my Dewalt DWE9491-XE (extended table)
The arbour (Blade Bore) size is 16mm.

I can't find the arbour length.

I found this:
DEWALT DWE7402DI Dado Throatplate for 10-Inch Portable Table Saw
And: Amazon questions for the DWE4791RS (Rolling stand)

"Question:
Does this saw accept dado blade set?
Answer:
Yes, you will need the Dado Throat Plate which is DeWalt Part Number DWE7402D1. Per DeWalt, do not attempt to stack dado blades thicker than 13/16" (20mm). Do not use dado blades larger than 8" (200mm) diameter. Since dado cuts are not thru-cuts, the cuts must be performed with the blade guard assembly removed. To remove the blade guard assembly, pull riving knife/blade guard release lever and pull up on the guard or riving knife to remove. When using the dado, the special dado insert (also sold as an accessory) must be used."

Barry, there's an unused Dewalt dado set for sale near me, look on Gumtree for dewalt dw7670 in Morpeth NSW. I'd be happy to collect and post it to you so long as you cover the costs. Send me a PM if you want to follow up on it.

Barry

Why do you need to cut a dado to build your cross cut sled?

Normally you just screw runners to the underside of a largish, squarish ply off-cut
The runners are sawn to fit the miter slots on your table saw.


If the dado set is to rebate the melamine -- can I suggest you think again.



also, I'm not sure how you intend balancing a 2.4 long sheet of melamine on your table saw while you cut out your cabinet components.

If you can get square corners on your uprights and backs using a circular saw, the same setup will also give you square shelves.

Thanks richmond68.
Many thanks for the find and the offer.
I've already purchased that one a few minutes after posting.
He should be sending it today.
Let me know if I can do anything for you from Melbourne.

Hi Ian,
The dado stack is for cutting trenching in the 18mm ply for track for the sled. Instead of using the router. grrrr

I've got the Paulk 2440x1220 workbench and a plunge saw with a brand new blade, posted here, and already fitted to manage the 2440mm x 1220mm sheets

I spent all my research energy on the cabinetry.
And had to get into the shop before I lost my mind.

Where I lost my confidence after forgetting all my practical knowledge of my router.
I was sure I could sort it out as I went along.
Nope.

So back to researching.

Cross cut sled. Setting it up as accurate as possible.

Where the widest practical workpiece is 595. (not counting the 900mm and 1200mm cabinet backs)

Back fence of 18mm x 2 laminated
Front fence of 18mm x 2 laminated
Calculating 595 + (18x4) = 667

So planning of rounding up to 700 deep at this stage.

No thoughts as to the width.

Max. Ripping Capacity [right] 825 mm = 32 1/2 “
Max. Ripping Capacity [left] 558 mm = 22”

Left mitre slot. 152 from single blade
Right mitre slot 157 from single blade

Left support table 953 from single blade
Right support table 967 from single blade


Mitre slot depth - 10.2mm
Mitre slot width - 19.5mm



I could do this:
Make the Ultimate Router Jig for Dados & Slots
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gnsthXtrtc

Or kinda over the router thing needing to buy more bits for more money than that dado stack.

Again, trying to "up my game" with something like this:
https://nickferry.com/2015/07/table-...d-in-one-ep58/

Dado Duel--Which is faster: Router or Tablesaw? - WOOD magazine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUdQ_k-cT7k

Barry

while a cross-cut sled is a handy thing to have, for your project the Paulk bench, circular saw and guides should be fine.

If you are breaking down 2400 x 1200 sheets to build your cabinets you need to achieve long straight splinter free cuts and 90 degree corners otherwise the finished cabinets will look like crap.
the same set-up can then be used cutting the shelves.

Setting up the plunge saw for 2400mm cuts is a PITA!
Having to make a 2mm pass then turn over and make another 2mm pass in the exact same spot is not going to be fun.
So gotta work on my technique again.

The melamine is cut at 2440 and 1220.
The edges are really rough.
So I'll have to cut all 4 sides for the backs.
Only 5 in all.

The same for the pre-edged work pieces.
I'll have to cut all 3 sides.

What I have is a festool MFT 1080 table and some Parf dogs.
In conjunction with the MFT's grid of 20 mm holes, it's easy to align a guide rail (or batten) for 90 degree cuts.

Paulk WorkBench
IMG_0753.jpg


Dewalt Contractors JobSite Saw
IMG_0752.jpg

Hi Barry

what I suggest you do is screw a series of battens and stops to your work bench.
Take your time and make sure that everything is a right angles and that the stops will position both sides of a panel in the same position relative to the rail or batten you are using to guide the saw.

If you want to preserve the top of your bench place a piece of 6mm MDF under the whole of every 2400 x 1200 sheet.