Thread: Large Storage Room Cabinets - Suggestions Appreciated

For Ian:

Ron Paulk Cross Cut Jig

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Before the cross cut jig I used these as sacrificial supports to save my bench top

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Finally!

2 years old but unused from GumTree
$90 including ~$20 shipping
Some selling new for $250

Needless to say I WON'T be using the plastic cutting board as a zero clearance insert.

Super Cross Cut Sled
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...A361A90F1D9C8F
With multiple editable Sketchup projects.
Super Sled - Crosscut and Miter Sled



or
Mega Table Saw Sled
Sleds
With plans available to purchase.

Thanks to all so far.

Couldn't wait to get started today as things are not progressing as quickly as I'd like.

Still building the cross cut sled.

Finally got the dato blades inserted.
Thought I better take a breather and not rush as this is my first experience with the dados.

I know the teeth from one blade must NOT be touching the teeth of the blade next to it.

My first question is:
is there a certain way to stack the dados blades for the most efficient cut?

i.e. teeth set 2mm behind the one next to it?
or the further apart the better?

I'm going to cut some dados for some Timbecom T-Track.
..."Rout 19mm wide x 9.5mm deep channels or rebates to install the T-Track. "...
The tracks are 18.5 mm wide
The dados for 19mm are 19.5mm wide.

Just wondering if 1mm wider than suggest is too wide ?

Thanks in advance.

Now that I've written that out,
it seems I should be measuring the results of an actual test cut.
So test test test.

I've cut all my T track slots with a router bit and aimed for a snug fit. After all, you are putting in T tracks for eg. A sled and you want the sled do slide accurately compared to the saw blade and you want the tracks parallel so the sled doesn't bind etc. Also having gaps attracts dust and slivers of wood etc. Don't know about others, but I tend to glue my tracks in these days which requires a snug fit. My early ones were screwed down which meant drilling and countersinking the track (if it wasn't already done) etc.

On the bottom of the slid are mitre strips used as runners.
(to fit the mitres slots on the table saw top that are there to be used with the mitre gauge)

I know some youtube vids cut rebates/trences for the miter strip runners into the bottom of the sled.
I was concerned that even .5mm off one way or the other would make it impossible to slide the sled.

So I didn't cut them. Especially not with a router.
I just glued the miter stripe runners to the bottom of the sled using 10c australian pieces in the table top mitre slots
to lift the the mitre strip runners just enough above the table.
Then once the glue dried I predrilled, countersunk and screwed from the bottom of the strips to the bottom of the sled.

Then spent the rest of the day setting up the dado blades for the first time to fit the T-Tracks.
Converting from inches to mm, calculating, testing, testing, testing and cutting perfect trenches to fit.

Using the dado blades to cut the mitre slots was soooooo much easier than using a router.

Can one glue aluminium mitre tracks to plywood?

Nevermind. Yes you can:
T-Track - Popular Woodworking Magazine

I'm pretty sure I'l be gluing.

Dewealt DW7670 8-Inch 203 mm 24-Tooth Dado Set.jpg

Nothing glued nor screwed yet.
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Is it just me or is the straight cuts with aluminium material seems so satisfying.

Hold the T-track in place with a dowel and some weight when gluing it into a dado. Epoxy is the glue of choice because it bonds to both wood and metal and is readily available at hardware stores. Use an epoxy that takes at least 15 minutes to set, so you don't have to rush.

Would JB-Weld be recommended to glue the aluminium to ply?

one pack just bearly covered the 2440 length of t-track.

found this looking around for a stop fence for the sled
Essential Stop Blocks with Bob Van Dyke
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d56s...index=49&t=34s

5th off cut Top Measurement - 5th off cut Bottom Measurement / 4(sides) / (length of 5th cut) x distance between pivot point and point of adjustment = Error

My first 5 cut calculation came out to be .0019 of an inch error.
I think thats 1.9 say 2 thousandths of an inch.

I think thats close enough.

OK.
Finished the sled.
Got all the Melamine cut.
Excluding Doors.

Was going to put the carcasses together first.
Then sort out the doors and hinges and handles.
Is this how its usually done?

The reason I ask is
I've got a couple of Cabinet Mate Jig Systems I'm going to use.
The Cabinet Mate instructions tell me I should fit the doors and hinges before putting the back on.
But thats because the system stacks the doors on the bottom.
Then the 4 sides then the back.

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I really need to source some plexiglass over the blade path to keep the bits from flying in my face.
I really need to put a vacuum port on the back to catch the dust and cover the blade at the end of the cut.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SelUih4VyKM

Originally Posted by barrysumpter

Was going to put the carcasses together first.
Then sort out the doors and hinges.
Is this how its usually done?

It is easier to put the hinge blocks on the gables before you assemble, but not critical. Same with the doors... it is easier to have them laying next to the gables to transfer the measurements over, but it's not essential.
Even in a production environment, there are stock shortages or the client hasn't chosen the finish/type of the door so the carcass is assembled and set up in the workshop. Hardware and fronts are added later.

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My first effort.
Not perfect.
But happy with the results.
And learned a lot.

After seeing it the lady mentioned we might not need any doors.


Thanks to all for their help.
Very much appreciated!