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  1. #106
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    Nice work! Kudos for doing everything from scratch too.

    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    After seeing it the lady mentioned we might not need any doors.
    Even better!

    How wide is the cabinet? You may want to consider shelf pin holes along the centre of the back to prevent shelf sag.

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  3. #107
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Hadn't considered that.
    1200
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  4. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    1200
    I would recommend adding them. We generally add shelf pin holes to backs whenever the width exceeds 800 - 900, depending on the thickness of the shelf.

  5. #109
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    Will do. Thanks heaps.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  6. #110
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    at 1200 wide, you probably should add a 30mm deep batten to the front and back of each shelf.

    You may want to have a play with Sagulator The Sagulator – WoodBin
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #111
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    Jul 1999
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    Melamine and Particleboard are down near the bottom of the list.

    My results.
    Sagulator Melamine 900 x 445 x 16 Particleboard .jpeg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  8. #112
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    Hi Barry
    you might want to try that again.

    you have set the shelf span at 900mm, when above (post #107) you said it was 1200mm
    you have stiffened the front (and back) of the shelf with a 900 mm deep batten. A typical stiffening batten would be about 30mm deep. The batten needs to be part of the shelf, not supports that the shelf rests on.

    plugging your 30 kg per foot (300mm) load, a 1200 long shelf with a 30 mm deep batten into Sagulator I get a total sag of about 80 mm.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #113
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    OK ta.

    No matter what variation on 1200mm width, I get excessive.

    It does not take into account the centre pin on the back.

    I can always add the batten later.

    Would I put a batten on both the underneath front and back of the shelf.
    Or just the back or just the front?

    I'm choosing just the back.

    I'm also using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig.
    Pretty sure its the system 32.
    i.e. where the pins are 32mm apart.
    So why not have a 32mm batten along the back supported by screws to the shelf and a shelf pin.

    Then edged or not?

    If edged then I'll probably do the edging myself.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  10. #114
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Another cabinet to assemble.

    Then a day or two to clean out the storage room where they are to go.

    Then need to figure out how to mount them.

    Current plan is to mount them to the studs.

    Not planning on using a french cleat.

    Will need something to hold he shelves up while I screw them.

    I've got the Triton multi stands with a 2x4 frame planned in my head.

    Would I use the same 50mm cabinet screws to attach to the studs?

    Large Storage Room Cabinets - Suggestions Appreciated
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  11. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    OK ta.

    No matter what variation on 1200mm width, I get excessive.

    It does not take into account the centre pin on the back.

    I can always add the batten later.

    Would I put a batten on both the underneath front and back of the shelf.
    Or just the back or just the front?

    I'm choosing just the back.

    I'm also using the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig.
    Pretty sure its the system 32.
    i.e. where the pins are 32mm apart.
    So why not have a 32mm batten along the back supported by screws to the shelf and a shelf pin.

    Then edged or not?

    If edged then I'll probably do the edging myself.
    It's a very very long time since I studied the engineering for a plate (shelf) supported on two pins either end with a 5th pin in the middle of one long side, but what I do remember is that the 5th pin doesn't reduce the shelf span by a half.

    Once Melamine sags it is permanently bent, you can't straighten it by adding an edging strip later.
    What I suggest is that you add the edging to the front and back of each shelf before you install them. The edging should be firmly attached to the shelf -- glue is best, but screws at 75 mm centres should also work.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #116
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    OK will glue 32mm x 16 melamine batten edging to bottom of the front and back.

    It's not clear with the Sagulator.
    The description in step 10 is too hard to follow.

    Sagulator Melamine 1200 x 445 x 16 Particleboard .jpeg

    For get it.

    I think I've just decided to cut the shelf in half.
    And remove 9mm width from each.

    Then place a vertical divider in the center of the cabinets.
    With shelf pin holes, in the divider, probably all the way thru.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  13. #117
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    At step 10
    width is the depth of the edging -- in your case 32mm
    thickness is the thickness of the edging -- 16 mm if the edge strip is a piece of melamine on its narrow edge

    also be careful of the load
    30 kg in the centre of a shelf is not the same as 30 kg per foot along the shelf. Think two bags of cement (40kg) in the center of the shelf vs a continuous row of books along the shelf.
    with shelving, continuous loads are more common than a single load in the center of a shelf
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #118
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    Thanks heaps Ian.

    No idea how you figured that out from the wording.

    Still showing excessive.

    I thought maybe we were not taking into account two strips of edging.
    One in the back and one in the front.
    Nope.

    Then I thought instead of two edgings how about a double thickness shelf.
    i.e. glue two shelves together.
    Shelf Thickness = 32
    Continuous.
    Borderline.

    With or without edging. Borderline.

    Then looking at the Melamine/particleboard rating of M1.
    Anything better than an M1 is acceptable.
    Is there any chance that the Bunnings particleboard inside the Melamine is better than an M1 rating?
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  15. #119
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    You might want to reconsider your design.
    a 1200 wide shelf implies a 600 wide door that in turn needs something like a 1100 wide corridor to open into. Otherwise you can't get around the open door when getting stuff into and out of your cabinets.

    Perhaps, limit the width of each unit to 6 or 800 mm. Which will reduce the shelf sag somewhat.

    The other area to look at is the design shelf loading you are using.
    30 kg in the center of a shelf would equate to a flat screen TV or a large microwave and not much else. Think kitchen shelf or the top of an entertainment unit.
    What are you proposing to store on the shelves?
    If it's bags of cement, then 30 kg per foot is perhaps not enough. A stack 3 bags high and 3 bags long would weigh around 180 kg or around 45 kg / foot.
    If it's spare sheets, blankets and towels perhaps 30 kg / foot is way too much. Perhaps involve your good lady in the discussion.


    Doubling your shelf thickness will improve the load capacity of a shelf, but will use a lot more material than attaching edge strips to the front and back of the shelf.

    Sorry, can't help with a specification of the material sold by Bunnings.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  16. #120
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    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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