Thread: Straight edge

Why not just use your router with a straight edge? I use either a length of aluminium angle or special 6" board as a straight edge, just depending on what suits the job best.

Arrange the boards in a best fit to one another. Match-mark for identification, e.g. pen or pencil on masking tape. Place a scrap plank under each end, and screw to the boards from below. Using a straightedge fence clamped to the boards, run a circular saw along the ill-fitting joints, barely into the scrap planks, so that the blade engages both boards, even though it misses in some locations.

Remove the screws, and repeat the procedure, until all joints mate. If the maximum bow is about 5mm, two cycles should be sufficient (assuming 1/8" blade).

A hand-held router can work the same way, with only one cycle, but the depth of cut should be made in small steps.

Cheers,
Joe

^^^^^ What he said

Thanks Joe, I will use the method described, but use my table saw and move the timber through the saw. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Trying to over engineer a simple task I guess.
Many Thanks

Regards Ingin

Same thing, but only two boards at a time. And probably simpler, too, because all the hand work is from above. The first board will have a bow to ride against the fence, so I'd attach a straightedge with the appropriate overhang to guide it. For subsequent joints, the previously-straightened edge can ride the fence. Thus, it's really important to match mark the boards. OTOH, you can still use the straightedge, taking care to not create a fan-shaped final layout.

Cheers,
Joe

position two boards side by side hold in vise and electric plane them straight,
les

Tried and proven method over the ages is not to rely on a machined edge particular if you require a near to perfect joint. Prior to gluing up finally shoot straight the edges to be glued with a no 6 or 7 Stanley trying plane ( by hand).Use a straight edge and finally check the joint for fit to its adjoining piece.
Cheers
Mac