Thread: non structural wall

I'm in the process of getting materials together to do a shed fitout myself.

I'm planning on using 90x45mm MGP10 Treated Pine framing for the walls, both external and internal. Why 90x45? More room for insulation (most of my walls are going to be lining the existing walls of the shed).

Build a standard stud frame, for non-structural go 600mm on centre. If the wall is external, consider using insulation (I know yours isn't). Optionally, you could use 70x35 framing, as it's only an internal wall - BUT - if you want to make (say) a French Cleat tool wall on one side, then consider 90x45 for added strength. Line with Gyprock (or Plywood, on the tool wall side).

Make sure you do not put your timber frame directly on concrete! Use something like: https://nhs.trade/shop/products_info...oducts_id=2853 to form a barrier before putting down your timber.

Where possible, given that you're building an internal wall only, attach the wall framing structure to the structure of your shed for rigidity. Depending on where you want to put this wall, a picture is worth a thousand words - if you can, post one up and we can figure how/what to attach to.

A simple plan is a good one

stupid acrobat PDFs

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I think I also need ideas on once I get the lower part of frame up, bottom plate will be attached to concrete floor (with moisture barrier ) how am I going to keep it vertical while fitting yo roof plates.

Save your money on alcor, use 110mm viscor (black snake skin looking plastic.
DO NOT FIX A TOP PLATE DIRECTLY TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUSS CHORD, there must be a minimum 12mm clearance, drill a hole in the top plate 1mm larger than the diameter of a coach screw or better still a 100mm batten screw and screw into bottom of truss. The dynamic design of the loads of the truss will be compromised, is in breach of the ABCC regs and you void your insurance as well, studs maximum 600mm centres. run a plate on flat under the apex of the trusses skew nailed into the 2 struts radiating from the apex, cut studes 12mm shorter than distance from top of wall plate to under side of apex plate and fix with "l" brackets with a nail https://www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-35...nails_p1107055 in the centre of https://www.bunnings.com.au/pryda-11...acket_p1070076 each slot into the studs and nail into bottom of apex plate. Stongly recommend 90 x 45 plates and studs for wall, only need 90 x 35 for studs above ceiling line. When using treated pine, all nails or screws must be galvanised or stainless
Feel free to ask any additional questions

EDIT: I didn't see the 2nd drawing, wall is parallel to trusses. Fit 90 x 45 trimmers between the 2 trusses where you want your wall, the same criteria applies as before, Ffix 2 raking plates to under your roof battens and fix studs same as criteria before

Attachment of the new non-loadbearing wall to the existing side walls is also worthy of attention. You can't just wack a 75mm nail into whatever is there, just in case there's nothing there.

well I was thinking of screwing through the end uprights into the metal upright but thats not allowed .. bummer.

rwbuild mate I wish I understood what your saying, but your tech talk in not in my language.

In addition to the other great advice, I would probably build the new wall in 2 parts, it will be pretty unwieldy in 1 piece.

Also I'd probably make it the full height of the side walls, then just fill in the gap with pieces cut to fit the slope.

And finally, a single full height stud in the centre, or wherever the join between the 2 sections attached as rw outlined.

That will give something solid to attach the wall sections to.



Russ

Tech lingo

Bottom plate = at floor level
Top plate = at top of wall parallel to bottom plate
Studs = at 600mm centres = between bottom and top plate
Bottom chord = lowest level member of truss at ceiling level = ties the 2 external walls together and has the greatest stress of the roof in tension
Raking plate = same angle of roof slope
Trimmer = any short timber member fixed usually at 90 deg between 2 parallel members
well I was thinking of screwing through the end uprights into the metal upright but thats not allowed .. bummer.
If you mean the first stud at each end of the wall fixing to the metal frame of the shed, yes that is allowed

if you can at all arrange the required floor space, framing the wall on the shed floor and then standing it up should be the easiest construction.

Next best would be to build the wall as modules.

use diagonal props to keep the wall vertical till it's tied-in at both ends and at the top.


think about making the wall somewhat fireproof, if not BCA fire compliant

If the third bay is just for storage, why not put in something for that purpose instead of a wall? Single sided gondola shelving would divide the space, is easily assembled without tools, and can be changed at any time to suit your needs. Due to widespread commercial use it's pretty easy to obtain used and fairly cheaply, though that might depend where you are. I paid 40 a bay for these, which are currently used to divide off a section of my shed. Each bay is 900 wide. 2.1m high is enough for a partition.

image.jpg

Cheers richmond68 great idea but the owner wants to protect his stuff, so going the way we are.

Actually Ive got more second hand shelving than I'll ever use.

Went shopping on Gumtree in Adelaide and when ready will sell excess here and make a small profit.