Thread: Suggestions for captive/caged nuts

Elraco have 10mm (3/8") threaded inserts that might work for you.

Thanks Jeremy,

They would certainly do the job. Freight charges make them a touch expensive but at least I know where to get some if all else fails.

Thanks for the link.

Originally Posted by BladeRunner

Freight charges make them a touch expensive....

True.I find that I can always find some 'shop supplies'(e.g. glue,screws,hinges,etc)
Keeps the freight cost down per $ spent

Check Häfele, I think they have up to M12

Originally Posted by jmk89

Keeps the freight cost down per $ spent

Now that's an idea. The freight is a flat rate. Bound to be something else I can use.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Check Häfele, I think they have up to M12

There seems to be a minimum quantity of 100. But they illustrate what makes it interesting to find these things. There are several names for the same object - insert nut, threaded insert and Hafele calls it a screw-in sleeve.

Thanks.

If you go down the threaded insert route, use the flanged ones, they are much stronger than the plain ones which tend to split where the Allen key fits in.
Tee nuts are available in 3/8" from Bunnings etc, not sure if they are made in any larger threads.
Check the fastener supply companies around your area, or a furniture components supplier, or even a small furniture manufacturer who may sell you a small quantity if you ask nicely.
Do you really need to remove the castors?, wouldn't it be easier just to jack them up off the ground a millimetre or two with the jacking bolts.
At 40Kg, your telescope seems like a pretty serious bit of gear, is it a Mead brand?

Alan...

http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/...d-brass-detail

Have both 8mm and 3/8"

This company lists lots of items which would do the job, particularly the T nuts:Flexliner | Levelling Feet

Just fit regular hex nuts into the timber by drilling a short hole and chiselling out the hex shape. If the hex hole is slightly undersize you will have to force the nuts into the timber and it will hold quite well but if your not happy with the grip a touch of epoxy will make it permanent.

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

If you go down the threaded insert route, use the flanged ones, they are much stronger than the plain ones which tend to split where the Allen key fits in.
Tee nuts are available in 3/8" from Bunnings etc, not sure if they are made in any larger threads.
Check the fastener supply companies around your area, or a furniture components supplier, or even a small furniture manufacturer who may sell you a small quantity if you ask nicely.
Do you really need to remove the castors?, wouldn't it be easier just to jack them up off the ground a millimetre or two with the jacking bolts.
At 40Kg, your telescope seems like a pretty serious bit of gear, is it a Mead brand?

Alan...

Hi Alan,
Yes, the M6 insert I tried is flanged.
I called the local specialty fastener shop yesterday and they normally stock them but are out of stock. He suggested a local furniture hardware supplier but I haven't found them yet.
Maybe I'll try the 3/8" T-nuts. There's not going to be a great deal of torque on them. No reason it needs to be metric.

I've already made the casters removable. But the metal version I saw online uses proper rubber wheels (which were out of budget for me) which he removes but then uses the jacks to level the scope. My scope has no particular need to be exactly level. I'll see how it feels when I get the jacks fitted - your suggestion may be reasonable.

The scope is a Skywatcher 12" collapsible dobsonian. I probably should have bought the 10" version (which I can carry around) and saved all the trouble but "Aperture is King" with newtonian telescopes.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Originally Posted by Lappa

Knock Down Hardware : Insert, Threaded, Brass

Have both 8mm and 3/8"

Thanks Lappa.

There's plenty of other bits and pieces to make the postage charges reasonable.

Originally Posted by Glennet

This company lists lots of items which would do the job, particularly the T nuts:Flexliner | Levelling Feet

Thanks Glen,

Lost of interesting hardware there. The "weld-on" T-nuts look good.

Paul,
if it was me I'd cut four pieces of 50 or 40mm x 3 mm flat bar, bore a hole in the centre appropriate to the nuts you want to use, weld the nuts on then bore four screw holes in the flat to connect to the underside of the dolly. The centre hole should be bored slightly oversize, a short bolt that suits the nut holds it in place while you weld it. A wrap of paper round the bolt where it goes through the hole will ensure the nut is central.
Cheers,
Geoff.