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Thread: Table design, what do you think?
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23rd September 2014, 10:04 AM #1Senior Member
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Table design, what do you think?
Hi Guys,
This table was originally designed as a cnc cut, assemble yourself type jobby made from ply.
Has been modified to turn into a solid version. The top in the pics, is laminated ply, but considering (preferring) a solid option.
Dimensions ~2400l x ~1200w x 730h
Legs at 10 degrees. frame at ~40mm. American white Oak.
So, some questions...
Any design mods you'd consider for strength?
Thought maybe pinning the through M&T's?
How thin would you go for a solid top, Personally I prefer 30-40mm, but if push came to shove what could you get away with over this size top?
Ply can be done at 17mm with no trouble.
Look forward to your feedback as always, thanks in advance!
Cam
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23rd September 2014 10:04 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd September 2014, 10:50 AM #2
If it was me I would like the side stretchers a bit further apart to give that large top more support, especially for a thinner top. I usually overbuild stuff. Overall it it looks fine.
Regards
John
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23rd September 2014, 12:23 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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I wanted to make a table for home but I have been saying that for 3 months lol
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23rd September 2014, 08:49 PM #4
Hi Cam.
If I were making that I would not do the solid top 30 or 40 mm thick right through , I would be doing either a mitered top with a 19mm center panel or a top with two bread board ends and two edge boards at 175 x 30 to 40 with the middle at 19 mm. 30 to 40 right through would weigh a lot and the leg design looks good but a bit flexible for a heavy top . I'm thinking of sideways forces on it, a hit and it may want to wobble back and forth in a horizontal way for a little while. You could do those two types of top around ply covered in Oak as well. If I were going to be taking my leg material from 50mm then I would keep it as thick as possible , or even go thicker for the legs and that will give a bit more meat for that through M&T . I don't think Pegs[ 8 or 10mm ] through the tenons at the leg join , if that's what you mean by pinning is, are going to help , they would weaken that area . I would just be doing the join and using a 2 pack glue.
The frame under the top looks tricky to assemble as well , How do all them tenons and halving joints go in at the same time , If they are all super precise and there is no flex in the ends of those long rails ? It looks like some sliding dovetails joints are needed to me .
Regards Rob
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23rd September 2014, 11:27 PM #5Senior Member
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24th September 2014, 09:59 AM #6
Make it 1/2 or 1/4 scale to test the theory out of cheap pine would be my approach. The doing will produce the answers.
Cheers
BevanThere ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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24th September 2014, 10:32 AM #7
Bevan's suggestion is the way to go as well .
Just thinking of assembly Cam, you could do the cross halving with the red arrow I put in your picture, and the end slides on to your tenons with the green arrows, and at the yellow arrows it could just be a butt join and pegged through from the out side ,or screwed from the inside .
With the butt join , the end of that can have a glue block added before you cut the angle on the end ,which is a big help when clamping and pegging, and leaves a bit more to peg to .
Rob
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25th September 2014, 09:47 AM #8Senior Member
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11th November 2014, 09:36 PM #9Senior Member
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For those who are interested.. Finished the base today. Top is drying.
Thanks for the help!
Screen Shot 2014-11-11 at 8.35.16 pm.jpg
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19th November 2014, 09:54 PM #10New Member
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looks really good
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