Thread: Tenoned mitre joint

It's not a hassle, you just cut the mortise in the machine before cutting the mitre.

JohnC

Hi ya Rocker!

Have you been playing with a 3D cad program? (looks good! )

I saw the article & was somewhat put off by the time involved in doing one joint. It'd be a great joint if all you wanted to show off was the joint but it's not practical on a decent sized project.

I agree that would be easy using your jig, you could also use it to cut the grooves for splines of any thickness in a miter joint.

Johnc,

Cutting the mortice for the FWW method of making the tenoned mitre joint would of course be no hassle with a morticer, as you say. The hassle with that joint is in making the tenon on the matching mitre.

What I meant was that cutting mortices for a floating tenon perpendicular to the face of the mitre, as in my second diagram, would be difficult or impossible with a morticer.

Major,

The diagrams were done in TurboCAD Professional, but I am afraid I screwed up with the grain direction a bit, and I was too lazy to fix it.

Rocker

I think the joinery is where the art lies in our trade. and the extra time involved in accurately laying out and cutting a pristine joint is well worth the time, and effort. I'm not knocking your idead David (it's a great one), I'm just a sucker for strong, cool looking joinery.

I think we owe it to the trees to take the time to learn the skills to layout and cut light tight traditional badass joinery that will outlast the adhesives used to stick it together.

I think that first joint would be even better with a dovetail shaped mortice, and wedged tenon.

my humble opinion.
-Ryan

Great cad drawing by the way!

Maybe a better joint all round is maybe do a lap joint. Still 1/3 rd thickness but you avoid so much end grain and you still get a 45 miter joint. And you can do it very quickly with a nice tenon saw and chisel.
Sinjin
PS Rocker on a few of the Mortising machines i have looked at either the head rotates or the clamping vice rotates. In vert and Hor positions. The miter mortise wouldn't be a problem for those machines. The tenon agreed.

Personally, I reckon the joint sucks. Too much time to get it right. Rockers sugestion of a floating tenon makes it a practical propositon, using his jig makes it simple.



However I fell the ultimate strengthening addition to this joint would be a 6 inch nail and super strength araldite, wotya reckon MAjor?

Personal i think a nail is a terrible idea. Gang nail cleats across both faces is way better. Having said that staining gal can be difficult but not out of the question.
Sinjin

I think it was David Marks who used a mitre joint with a contrasting spline. He made a 'V' jig to hold the frame on its corner so that he could cut the groove with a table saw. Then tapped in a spline and flushed it with a router. It's a good looking joint and would be super strong.

Originally Posted by outback

Personally, I reckon the joint sucks. Too much time to get it right.

Too much time how? (now i'm picking a fight ) a skilled carpenter could layout and cut that joint with hand tools faster than you could set up a router and jig. Learning the skills however does take an investment of time .

but it is well paid off.

-Ryan
(the unskilled carpenter )

Why too much time?


Let me present exhibit A.

Originally Posted by ryanarcher

...... a skilled carpenter could layout and cut that joint with hand tools faster than you could set up a router and jig. Learning the skills however does take an investment of time .
......................

-Ryan
(the unskilled carpenter )

The prosecution rests

lap joint on table saw wouldn't take 5 minutes.......but i agree about the hand tools.
Sinjin