Thread: What timber and process for edge jointing rustic table top project?

Hi Jonesy,

As you have mentioned, the trouble with wood like pine from Bunnings is that it might look reasonably straight but often after you have cut it it releases stress and you are back where you started. Also it often still got a fair bit of moisture in it and the only way round that is to leave it in the workshop for a while to acclimatise it.
In Melbourne we have places like Mathews Timber where you can get better quality pine for around the same price. Maybe you have similar places in Adelaide.

What you need is a jointer sled for you Triton which which will solve your edge jointing problems. Stumpy Nubs has a recent video with plans for a sled that would be pretty cheap to knock up. Make the sled a little bit longer than the the timber you require jointing. I would also add at least one extra hold down and if you are jointing 1500mm 4 hold downs would be prudent. Once you have one straight edge put the sled aside and do the opposite side again the saw fence.
You would probably find a few companies selling recycled building materials in Adelaide where you might get good stuff like oregan or tassie oak or ?
4-1

There's bound to be places in Adelaide that recycle materials from demolition projects.

You'll be able to find some much better hardwood than the pine you'd get from Bunnings. Hopefully for a similar price. But it will look rough on the outside. That's OK as long as they are flat and straight.
Bring them home and let them acclimatise to your shed or work area for at least a week. Although one advantage of recycled timber is that it is less likely to warp while in storage.

Then build the sled jig to join them with the Triton as already suggested. (otherwise you'd need the router in a router table with a split fence). Join them together into a big board. You will need clamps and PVA glue.

Then build a sled for the router to flatten the 2 sides of this board. This is just a trough for your router. The trough runs along rails. This allows you to move the router over the entire board at an even height so the whole thing becomes flat. Turn over the board, adjust the router and do the other side. You'll find examples on YouTube.

Build the sleds with MDF to limit costs.
Ideally finish with shellac to limit costs and get a great result.

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P.S. I just had a brain wave.
In Bunnings you can buy these large laminated hardwood panels for quite cheap. $99 I think. Just cut to size and Bob's your uncle.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/interbui...panel_p8330032

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Originally Posted by DaveVman

P.S. I just had a brain wave.
In Bunnings you can buy these large laminated hardwood panels for quite cheap. $99 I think. Just cut to size and Bob's your uncle.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/interbui...panel_p8330032

Except ...

in the Ikea hack the builders have only placed the boards side by side which mostly negates issues around timber expansion and contraction.
A single wide panel might expand / contract enough to pull the Ikea unit apart

Originally Posted by ian

Except ...

in the Ikea hack the builders have only placed the boards side by side which mostly negates issues around timber expansion and contraction.
A single wide panel might expand / contract enough to pull the Ikea unit apart

Check out my link and have a closer look at the photo. These panels from Bunnings are short lengths of wood laminated together lengthwise then laminated together width wise to create a large panel. Then they are flattened, and oiled as a finish. They are not a single plank in either direction so if anything they are less likely to expand (I would think).

Technically speaking, they don't even require finishing if not cut. Although I would give them a gloss finish, like polyurethane, especially when cut.
They are 26mm thick and hardwood, so they will look better and be hard wearing. Whereas stain is not cheap and the stained pine in the video relies on the polyurethane to protect it.
They are available in different woods and different sizes but options vary from store to store. I can't seem to find any of the small sizes near me. YMMV.

Originally Posted by DaveVman

Check out my link and have a closer look at the photo. These panels from Bunnings are short lengths of wood laminated together lengthwise then laminated together width wise to create a large panel. Then they are flattened, and oiled as a finish. They are not a single plank in either direction so if anything they are less likely to expand (I would think).

there no difference, in terms of expansion/contraction, between a top made with long boards and one made with end jointed short ones

Originally Posted by ian

there no difference, in terms of expansion/contraction, between a top made with long boards and one made with end jointed short ones

Thanks Ian. but what are the chances of the Ikea flatpack ripping apart over time because it's screwed to one of these panels? Ikea stuff is not even glued together. I'm just a beginner but that seems unlikely. Plus if it ever did happen just drill bigger holes in the melamine.

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Originally Posted by safari

Hi Jonesy,
In Melbourne we have places like Mathews Timber where you can get better quality pine for around the same price. Maybe you have similar places in Adelaide.
What you need is a jointer sled for you Triton which which will solve your edge jointing problems. Stumpy Nubs has a recent video with plans for a sled that would be pretty cheap to knock up....
You would probably find a few companies selling recycled building materials in Adelaide where you might get good stuff like oregan or tassie oak or ?
4-1

Could you link to the video please. I had look on the site and YouTube but wasn't sure which jig. I called a few timber stores but most were dearer than bunnings and not keen on my small order. There is a few recycling yards I will stop in and visit. I know one does reclaimed wood tabletops, which are pricey, but also sell raw materials so should have something in stock.

Originally Posted by DaveVman

P.S. I just had a brain wave.
In Bunnings you can buy these large laminated hardwood panels for quite cheap. $99 I think. Just cut to size and Bob's your uncle.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/interbui...panel_p8330032

This is what gave me the initial idea and located the youtube for convenience. We have one of these boards as a benchtop in the laundry on gloss white cupboards. It looks very nice however doesn't have the aesthetics I was after. At $200 I'm sure I could make something.

I had intended to screw the top and sides onto the ikea unit; what is a better way if movement is an issue?

Originally Posted by Jonesy_SA

I had intended to screw the top and sides onto the ikea unit; what is a better way if movement is an issue?

If you are worried about movement you just need to allow the solid timber to expand and contract a little. So for example, in the video they screw each board hard down to the IKEA unit. This is going to fight any attempt by the board to expand and contract. Instead you could use a drill to make a little slot rather than a tight hole in the IKEA unit. That is, just drill an oversize hole. Don't screw it down so hard it couldn't move a bit inside the slot if it has to. Use screws with a head big enough to cover this oversize hole.
There are more elegant ways, but that would be a quick and easy way.

Its the third story down. "A clever table saw taper jig". This jig can also be used to cut a straight edge so in effect you are getting two jigs for the price of one.