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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Default Tool Chest Sliding Front

    G'Day

    I am finally getting around to making something for myself and have decided on a tool chest to hold various bits and pieces. Found one that I like the look of http://www.gerstnerusa.com/toolchests/20.htm.

    What sort of hardware do you use to make the lid be able to slide smoothly into the body of the cabinet?

    Cheers
    Rodney

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  3. #2
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    Jul 2006
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    Durong Qld
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    Default

    Is that perhaps the same sort of hardware they use for doors that hide the tv on telly cabinets now ? they swing open then push back into the cabinet. I have seen them on an office desk too. Perhaps try Hafele.

    Donna

  4. #3
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    Oct 2007
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    The setup illustrated is basically an inverted version of a barristor bookcase. For the BB, the motion is accomplished with a routed dado in each side panel and a brass pin set into the face panel edges each side. The other hardware required is a suitable lock, the example using a half mortice style, I believe.

    For a BB (see here), the cover panel lifts and slides back, and a mortice lock or magnetic catrch can be used. Alignment of the panel as it is retracted is achieved by having about .5mm clearance between the panel and the sides, and a similar amount between the pin ends and the dados.

    Biggest limitation for either design is the the cabinet must be deeper than it is tall in order to allow the panel to slide away completely.

  5. #4
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    Default

    all those beautiful wooden tool boxes thats torn it there goes my plans for the year ahead.

    Ty for the DROOLING link

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cairns, Queensland
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    The setup illustrated is basically an inverted version of a barristor bookcase. For the BB, the motion is accomplished with a routed dado in each side panel and a brass pin set into the face panel edges each side. The other hardware required is a suitable lock, the example using a half mortice style, I believe.

    For a BB (see here), the cover panel lifts and slides back, and a mortice lock or magnetic catrch can be used. Alignment of the panel as it is retracted is achieved by having about .5mm clearance between the panel and the sides, and a similar amount between the pin ends and the dados.

    Biggest limitation for either design is the the cabinet must be deeper than it is tall in order to allow the panel to slide away completely.
    I noticed in the picture that the door sits proud when it has been slid under, I assume this is why.

    Thanks for the heads up on Barrister bookcase, will look into this and Hafelle. Have managed to find all the other bits I need for it at http://www.watsonbrass.com/

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    The setup illustrated is basically an inverted version of a barrister bookcase. For the BB, the motion is accomplished with a routed dado in each side panel and a brass pin set into the face panel edges each side
    Wouldn't the brass pin in time wear a groove and cause the door to be out of alignment?

    Thanks for all the reply's
    Rodney

  7. #6
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    Re brass waering over time, I reread the Barristors Bookcase article after posting and they do quote steel pins. But to my thinking, the steel would be more likely to rust before the brass showed significant wear. Remember the brass is only travelling an a slot in the walls, no metal to metal contact .

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cairns, Queensland
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    Re brass waering over time, I reread the Barristors Bookcase article after posting and they do quote steel pins. But to my thinking, the steel would be more likely to rust before the brass showed significant wear. Remember the brass is only travelling an a slot in the walls, no metal to metal contact .
    I was thinking the brass would wear the wood and eventually lead to a sloppy lid.

    Did some more research last night and some experimenting. Found an article where the author routes a stopped dado in the side of the carcass and puts a dowel into the side of the lid. As long as the lid is fitted via the back of the case (will have a removable back so that if something needs fixing I can still get to the parts) and a rail is put under the lid I think this will work.

    Cheers
    Rodney
    Last edited by rodney; 29th December 2008 at 01:44 PM. Reason: grammer

  9. #8
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    Basically back to inverted BB, but using dowels rather than metal pins. I know of BB's that have ben in use for about 100 yrs without significant wear on either the pins or the timber.

  10. #9
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    Dec 2007
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    Cairns, Queensland
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    Quote Originally Posted by malb View Post
    Basically back to inverted BB, but using dowels rather than metal pins. I know of BB's that have ben in use for about 100 yrs without significant wear on either the pins or the timber.
    I have decided to have a go using dowels, my little experiments with the mechanism looks positive.

    Have so far constructed the box, front and draw dividers. Next job is to route the slide for the front and the draw dividers.

    Attachment 93573
    Attachment 93574

    Cheers
    Rodney

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Kentucky, USA
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    78
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    848

    Default

    Wouldn't the pivot door hinges/hardware used in TV cabinets wook for this? Check out http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/gr...oor%20Hardware

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