Thread: What tools require for doing merbau fence & decks?

Other useful items would include a cross cut hand saw or powered circular saw, spirit level, tape measure, perhaps a chisel and something to dig holes for any posts.

Please note the above is not a definitive list as I have not seen any plans or know the site.

Recently, I built a deck, and found one of the most useful tools to be a small laser level. I used it to establish and mark out a level around the entire perimeter of the site. From this it was quite simple to get the posts and bearers very accurately into position.

Let's start a list

Measuring
a 5 or 8m tape
a large 90° square
laser level -- as suggested by mspil

Cutting stuff to length
a powered mitre saw -- a 10" model sould be more than adequate for a front fence and decking

attaching one bit of wood to another
cordless nail gun -- but please don't ask me to recommend a model
alternatively a quality 20oz hammer -- there'll be a lot of nails to drive, you don't want to be using a crap hammer
if you go the hammer route, a pair of nail pincers to remove miss-struck nails
or
powered impact driver -- if you decide screws are easier than nails -- the drill you have and a manual screw driver will also work if there's only a few screws

holes for the digging of
post-hole shovel
crow bar

square mouth shovel -- concrete for the mixing of -- for your fence posts

25mm chisel with an "indestructable" handle -- one you can bash with a steel hammer
a carbarundum stone to sharpen the chisel
a hammer to hit the chisel -- youir nail hammer, if you get one will do

heloanand; Welcome to the forum.

The task you are considering to undertake(fence) does not have to be too complex. I might suggest that you take a look at other fences in your street or on the internet. Make a drawing or a rough sketch of what you want the fence to look like.

Then mark it out, on the site and for this you will need a tape measure. So the first thing that I would get is a tape measure. The rest of the tools come once you determine how you are going to build it.

Certainly for the deck, seriously consider pre-drilling and countersinking the screws to minimise the chance of splitting. If you are independently wealthy, stainless steel screws are a nice idea, otherwise galvanised screws work well.

I pre-painted the decking boards (on all surfaces with Cabot's Aquadeck), then when they were installed, sanded the tops with 180 grit, and gave 2 more coats. I'm really happy with the result, but expect to have to recoat every 12 to 18 months.

While I applaud your enthusiasm and wish you all the best if you do build your fence and deck yourself, I can't help but be the voice of caution/realism on this one. If you don't know what tools you will need then I'd suggest that you probably don't really understand everything that will be required of you if you build these things yourself. Some people think they can save a few bucks by buying a couple of cheap tools from Bunnings and do it themselves, then half way through the job regret that decision in a big way - either because they realise they have bitten off more than they can chew, or because the resulting structure is not up to the standard they had in mind in the first place.

Could I suggest you do some research on exactly how to build the fence and the deck (there is plenty of information on the net, just google "how to build a deck" and most of these articles have a full list of what tools you'll need). Once you've read what is required and decide to go ahead then at least you'll have realistic expectations of what you are in for. Quite honestly, depending on the type of fence and deck, it might be cheaper to get a professional to build it rather than forking out for a bunch of new tools that you may be unfamiliar with and doing it yourself.

Having said all that, if you do go ahead, in addition to the very sensible suggestions already posted, I'd suggest a string line and a "Smartbit". The Smartbits are a drill and countersink in one and are used specifically for pre-drilling holes for deck boards. Also, some laser levels can be a bit difficult to see outdoors unless you buy a really good one. A length of clear plastic pipe and some water will do the same job but for a lot less.

Good luck,

Steve

To nail palings to the fence you will need a coil nailgun, compressor and hot dipped galvanised nails or do it by hand with gal nails or treated pine (coated) square drive screws.

Instead of a laser level, make a simple but extremely accurate one-man water level. Mine is a 20l plastic water container as a reservoir and a long clear plastic hose, long enough to get you around your entire deck site. Fill the drum with water and siphon it through the hose til all the bubbles are gone - if you haven't worked it out yet, one end of the hose stays in the drum. Put the drum somewhere so the water level is a useful datum, ie, within the height range of your posts, for example (in the shade is good too). Wherever you carry the other end of the hose and mark the water level height, that mark will always be at the same level - it even works out of line-of-sight and is easy to see in daylight - two things difficult for a laser level. Once you have the datum marks on all the posts it's a simple matter to measure up or down from there to mark the actual desired height of the posts or any other reference height you need.

String lines attached to batter boards is the best way to set out decks (string line also for fencelines) and for squaring up use diagonal measurements for simple rectangular or square decks or the 3-4-5 rule when you don't have diagonals. This is much more accurate than a square.

For marking out decking I use this method (looks a little complicated but words are, doing is easy). It is really useful to buy a short length of 3mm thick alum angle and cut it into 15-20mm lengths for deck-board spacers. It doesn't fall through. You don't just use them to space the deck however, use the method in the link whereby you nail in several reference boards first.

After reading Steve's (Bodgia's) post, I have to admit I fully agree with his warning to at least sit back and give your thought of a DIY deck a sober reassessment. To further complicate matters, unless it was on your original development application, your council will require a new DA since they will deem it an unapproved new permanent structure (with all the associated legal implications of insurance, public liability etc etc etc).

I was very happy with the way I went 6 months ago. I asked around friends etc and found a builder with a good reputation. After an initial "interview", we agreed on a contract setting out what I would supply and do, and what his team would supply and do. It was a very harmonious relationship with a bit of give and take on both sides, and with his wealth of experience he gave me some great ideas and advice, as well as making certain it followed all the building codes.

I saved a few thousand dollars, got a better result than expected, and now have a great spot to have a beer this summer.

Also for a bit of a saving, in the contract I suggested I'd extend the completion date by 4 weeks so he could go back & forth between other jobs he had on the go if it was raining etc to give him more flexibilty.

HTH and good luck.
Phil

Thanks for everyone giving me the best advices. On weekend I bought a bosch mitre saw and drive around my estate, took some photos of merbua fences done, measure what I need.
I have created another thread to continue my doubts related to decking
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/be...lation-158705/