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7th April 2019, 06:26 AM #1Senior Member
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- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
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- 119
Triton Workbench Mk3 restoration.
Moved from wrong forum duuuh
The deck of the old girl is not flat and pretty useless. Needs an upgrade!
Compatibility with old Triton frame
Need a flat table.
Maximum depth from donor saw
Dead straight saw fence
T-channel inserts for saw sled
Saw sled with t-track and adjustable stops
45 deg jig for wide cutting on sled.
Room for future speed fitting of 3 different size routers
etc etc more to come I am sure.
Materials and steps so far -
17mm ply with Bakelite coating -Specrite Formply
300/400/6 mm Aluminum plate
Hitachi 242mm saw from Triton table
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7th April 2019 06:26 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th April 2019, 06:47 AM #2Senior Member
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- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
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- 119
Squared up all sides wirh builers square and router. Router out edges for Al.
Bracing added to bottom to ensure T-track reliefs don't weaken the deck when their channels are cut into the ply, I will add pre-stressed 1" square tubes to the braces later to ensure a flat surface above.
Fitted Al extrusion to all edges. I added .5mm to seat the extrusion fitted height just above the deck.
Needed to allow for measuring tape to be fitted to both ends later and I don't want the fences to ride on the deck rather the edge strips to be the fence supports.
All tuning and measurements will be referenced from the switch end extrusion
Now how to make a zero clearance insertion from scratch
I want a reference one to use as a template for replacements as they wear out, a plywood and a HDPP one
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7th April 2019, 08:22 AM #3
Watching with interest. And popcorn...
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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7th April 2019, 06:43 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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- Nov 2009
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- Canberra
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- 1,301
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9th April 2019, 06:26 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
A bit of fun with my old Triton work horse. I built a 2 story house including staircase and much furniture with this table and I can't bring myself to chuck it out for a new fangled one. Bit like grand pa's Axe - new handle, new head, new hand..
Today,
Made up some zero insertion templates and working ones.
Made some 6mm material up on the mini jointer.
A lot of hand work to do the template but very easy to make new ones from it. I use a template following bit with my small router. I use a small amount of double sided tape to hold the template to the new material. I made some plywood ones and some in plastic. Had to use small files to trim to fit, fiddly but a pleasing result.
I don't need a hole in the plates as it is easy to poke em up from below (with the saw off of course!)
Next is a fence, I will use 40mm Al square tube and a plunger plug type clamp at the other end. This will give me a light rigid fence that I can easily attach accessories to later, feather boards etc. The fence will have a 90deg cross piece fitted to it at the switch end of the table. It will be located with bolts so I can fine tune as necessary.
Fun!
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9th April 2019, 08:50 PM #6
For those who have been on the forum a long time, who was the guy who was always adding to his Triton...you 2 should compare notes
I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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16th April 2019, 06:04 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Making fence. 50*50 Al square tube
20 * 20 Al square tube for cross T piece. Nylon bungs for ends.
SS Bolts for cross piece left some room in the holes for fine tuning.
I have ordered a push type toggle clamp for the other end to lock the fence into position quickly, will put reference tape under fence on the deck later. Damn thing is taking forever on a slow boat from you know where.
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19th April 2019, 07:25 AM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Sick of waiting for toggle clamp to lock fence so I made a screw clamp for now.
Used some 6mm Al bar, M8 long thread bolt - cut, drill, tap etc. Could get wheel perimeter knurled by No2 son if needed.
CA glue a fiber washer onto the bolt head to give a friction surface back onto the table.
Fitted square nylon bungs to all cut ends of fence.
Experimenting with this at the moment, might jam in extended use as steel bolt will stress the threads in the Al somewhat. I could make a bracket in all steel but that's much harder for me.
Seems to work ok for now.
Open to ideas though!
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20th April 2019, 04:54 PM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Some bracing to keep deck flat.
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Some 1" square steel tube welded screwed.
Gonna keep it flat!.
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It now occurs to me it's going to be very hard to add mount points for a router now ???
Maybe I might just be able to squeeze it in on the side.
It's flat, I checked it.
Now to fit T-channels.
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25th April 2019, 04:05 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Determine best layout for T-channel for me.
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Note I have added the original Triton pins through drilled into new top to lock it's position. They can be easily removed so I can remove the whole top as was the Triton.. I still have a very good Triton Router table that fits this frame so I need to keep the frame integrity.
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Routing for Channels - I made the trench a bit deeper to allow for fine tuning with thin packers, I will then bed the channel into a resin layer and screw through when resin has set.
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Roughed in and trimmed plus 2mm for flush trimming with small router after glued and screwed.
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Checking for ultimate parallel before final fixing in place.
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Glued screwed and flush trimmed.
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Onto making inserts for channels for one small and one large sled. Slides - Inserts HDPE 10mm thick. I need to get a handle on how to work this material. Rip cross cut saw and plane in for a neat fit. Not sure how it will go, I hope it will slide easily and wear well with no problems with humidity etc.
Better practice a bit first.
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4th May 2019, 05:06 PM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Sled work
Rough cut Poly for Slides
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Pass over planer to required thickness
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Drilling stopped holes for fixing screws
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Fixed under sled and tested for smooth running - had to re plane a bit. Waxed em with a candle now slide well. About .25mm side play if you force it else run in line well.
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Work on front and rear fences next and some adjustable stops oh and a handy hold down for little bits to keep my fingers away!
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12th May 2019, 08:01 AM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
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Adjustable fence. I set using 5 cut method, got it to .050 pretty happy with that. Can re adjust as necessary
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Made a riving knife - 2 actually for different thicknesses. Bolted to blade guard. I am happy that the Hitachi guard is cast and not cheap thin steel! Had to drill an extra mount hole.
Made knife from 1.9 Al. Half way difference in thickness of blade to blade teeth of Triton OE best blade. Set knife 4mm from blade in arc. Bit of a fiddle but works well in use.
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Added stiffening - vibration damper blocks
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Next sliding stops, a blade safety box with vac port and a hold down for back fence.
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23rd May 2019, 03:59 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- Harrington, NSW
- Posts
- 119
Adjustable rear fence with adjustable hold down support and sliding stops
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Dust port on rear fence
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Limit stop to halt sled it swings down when ripping.
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I added doors and a floor below the deck to trap sawdust and put an exhaust port in the side opposite the saw exhaust.
Bloody wonderful to not have dust going everywhere!
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Not much left of the old Triton now. Might paint all of that orange flat black.
I need to built a jig to do long edge miters next.
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7th February 2023, 11:30 AM #14New Members
- Join Date
- Feb 2023
- Location
- Shellharbour
- Age
- 52
- Posts
- 1
This looks awesome. Thinking about how to do my own MK3 and got some good ideas here! Ta mate.
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