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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default Triton Workbench Mk3 restoration.

    Moved from wrong forum duuuh

    The deck of the old girl is not flat and pretty useless. Needs an upgrade!

    Compatibility with old Triton frame
    Need a flat table.
    Maximum depth from donor saw
    Dead straight saw fence
    T-channel inserts for saw sled
    Saw sled with t-track and adjustable stops
    45 deg jig for wide cutting on sled.
    Room for future speed fitting of 3 different size routers
    etc etc more to come I am sure.

    Materials and steps so far -

    17mm ply with Bakelite coating -Specrite Formply
    300/400/6 mm Aluminum plate
    Hitachi 242mm saw from Triton table


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Squared up all sides wirh builers square and router. Router out edges for Al.
    Bracing added to bottom to ensure T-track reliefs don't weaken the deck when their channels are cut into the ply, I will add pre-stressed 1" square tubes to the braces later to ensure a flat surface above.

    Fitted Al extrusion to all edges. I added .5mm to seat the extrusion fitted height just above the deck.
    Needed to allow for measuring tape to be fitted to both ends later and I don't want the fences to ride on the deck rather the edge strips to be the fence supports.

    All tuning and measurements will be referenced from the switch end extrusion

    Now how to make a zero clearance insertion from scratch
    I want a reference one to use as a template for replacements as they wear out, a plywood and a HDPP one

    20190306_151743.jpg
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    20190308_142146.jpg

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,402

    Default

    Watching with interest. And popcorn...
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,296

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duke12 View Post
    Moved from wrong forum duuuh
    The deck of the old girl is not flat and pretty useless. Needs an upgrade!

    Compatibility with old Triton frame
    Need a flat table.
    Maximum depth from donor saw
    Dead straight saw fence
    T-channel inserts for saw sled
    Saw sled with t-track and adjustable stops
    45 deg jig for wide cutting on sled.
    Room for future speed fitting of 3 different size routers
    etc etc more to come I am sure.

    Materials and steps so far -

    17mm ply with Bakelite coating -Specrite Formply
    300/400/6 mm Aluminum plate
    Hitachi 242mm saw from Triton table


    20190301_075610.jpg
    20190301_075615.jpg
    20190301_075918.jpg
    20190301_081627.jpg
    20190301_082049.jpg
    20190306_151736.jpg
    You were in the right forum first time.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    A bit of fun with my old Triton work horse. I built a 2 story house including staircase and much furniture with this table and I can't bring myself to chuck it out for a new fangled one. Bit like grand pa's Axe - new handle, new head, new hand..

    Today,
    Made up some zero insertion templates and working ones.

    Made some 6mm material up on the mini jointer.

    A lot of hand work to do the template but very easy to make new ones from it. I use a template following bit with my small router. I use a small amount of double sided tape to hold the template to the new material. I made some plywood ones and some in plastic. Had to use small files to trim to fit, fiddly but a pleasing result.

    I don't need a hole in the plates as it is easy to poke em up from below (with the saw off of course!)

    Next is a fence, I will use 40mm Al square tube and a plunger plug type clamp at the other end. This will give me a light rigid fence that I can easily attach accessories to later, feather boards etc. The fence will have a 90deg cross piece fitted to it at the switch end of the table. It will be located with bolts so I can fine tune as necessary.

    Fun!
    20190311_140108.jpg
    20190311_140201.jpg
    20190311_140221.jpg

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    lower eyre peninsular
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,577

    Default

    For those who have been on the forum a long time, who was the guy who was always adding to his Triton...you 2 should compare notes
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Making fence. 50*50 Al square tube

    20 * 20 Al square tube for cross T piece. Nylon bungs for ends.
    SS Bolts for cross piece left some room in the holes for fine tuning.

    I have ordered a push type toggle clamp for the other end to lock the fence into position quickly, will put reference tape under fence on the deck later. Damn thing is taking forever on a slow boat from you know where.

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  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Sick of waiting for toggle clamp to lock fence so I made a screw clamp for now.
    Used some 6mm Al bar, M8 long thread bolt - cut, drill, tap etc. Could get wheel perimeter knurled by No2 son if needed.
    CA glue a fiber washer onto the bolt head to give a friction surface back onto the table.
    Fitted square nylon bungs to all cut ends of fence.

    Experimenting with this at the moment, might jam in extended use as steel bolt will stress the threads in the Al somewhat. I could make a bracket in all steel but that's much harder for me.

    Seems to work ok for now.

    Open to ideas though!


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  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Some bracing to keep deck flat.
    20190306_151736.jpg


    Some 1" square steel tube welded screwed.

    Gonna keep it flat!.
    20190412_113438.jpg

    It now occurs to me it's going to be very hard to add mount points for a router now ???
    Maybe I might just be able to squeeze it in on the side.

    It's flat, I checked it.

    Now to fit T-channels.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Determine best layout for T-channel for me.

    20190405_140213.jpg

    Note I have added the original Triton pins through drilled into new top to lock it's position. They can be easily removed so I can remove the whole top as was the Triton.. I still have a very good Triton Router table that fits this frame so I need to keep the frame integrity.

    20190405_140244.jpg

    Routing for Channels - I made the trench a bit deeper to allow for fine tuning with thin packers, I will then bed the channel into a resin layer and screw through when resin has set.

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    Roughed in and trimmed plus 2mm for flush trimming with small router after glued and screwed.

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    Checking for ultimate parallel before final fixing in place.

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    Glued screwed and flush trimmed.

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    Onto making inserts for channels for one small and one large sled. Slides - Inserts HDPE 10mm thick. I need to get a handle on how to work this material. Rip cross cut saw and plane in for a neat fit. Not sure how it will go, I hope it will slide easily and wear well with no problems with humidity etc.

    Better practice a bit first.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Sled work

    Rough cut Poly for Slides

    20190418_143133.jpg
    20190418_143133.jpg

    Pass over planer to required thickness

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    Drilling stopped holes for fixing screws

    20190419_112817.jpg

    Fixed under sled and tested for smooth running - had to re plane a bit. Waxed em with a candle now slide well. About .25mm side play if you force it else run in line well.

    20190422_142705.jpg
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    Work on front and rear fences next and some adjustable stops oh and a handy hold down for little bits to keep my fingers away!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    20190427_093122.jpg
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    Adjustable fence. I set using 5 cut method, got it to .050 pretty happy with that. Can re adjust as necessary

    20190427_100402.jpg

    Made a riving knife - 2 actually for different thicknesses. Bolted to blade guard. I am happy that the Hitachi guard is cast and not cheap thin steel! Had to drill an extra mount hole.

    Made knife from 1.9 Al. Half way difference in thickness of blade to blade teeth of Triton OE best blade. Set knife 4mm from blade in arc. Bit of a fiddle but works well in use.
    20190430_073927.jpg

    Added stiffening - vibration damper blocks
    20190430_074018.jpg

    Next sliding stops, a blade safety box with vac port and a hold down for back fence.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Harrington, NSW
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Adjustable rear fence with adjustable hold down support and sliding stops
    1.jpg
    Dust port on rear fence
    2.jpg

    Limit stop to halt sled it swings down when ripping.
    3.jpg
    I added doors and a floor below the deck to trap sawdust and put an exhaust port in the side opposite the saw exhaust.
    Bloody wonderful to not have dust going everywhere!
    4.jpg

    Not much left of the old Triton now. Might paint all of that orange flat black.

    I need to built a jig to do long edge miters next.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2023
    Location
    Shellharbour
    Age
    52
    Posts
    1

    Default

    This looks awesome. Thinking about how to do my own MK3 and got some good ideas here! Ta mate.

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