Thread: Type of chiseling technique.

Or handheld linear grinder, with modified stone or wire wheel

http://www.ferret.com.au/c/111-Abras...nders-p2524303

Originally Posted by auscab

Id guess like I did the shapes in mine , in this bit of Liquid Amber . What a freaky timber to work !
With the guard pulled back on a Makita circular saw , sculpted with 60mm of blade sticking out !!
Yow!!! watch out for serious dig ins and kick backs .
Once you get a feel for it though its plain sailing .

Basically the same but as I did about 30 of them I jigged up the Festo plunge track saw in a circular rig.
Lots of plunges and then a quick sand.
Made good money and the young guys at TAFE lifted them off the ute for me.
H.

done (in under a minute) with a monstrously blunt Arbortec.

The original version had more finesse then mine but I think one could easily close that gap by:
1. sharpening the tool
2. adding a handle to the angle grinder (lost mine, bit hard to hold)
3. using a bit of care.

The angle you hold the anglegrinder determines the profile and width of the scallop. Whether you drag the tool towards yourself quickly or let it dwell a bit determines whether the striations inside the scallop are big or small, deep or shallow.

cheers
Arron

arbortech2.jpg

That looks the go , the Arbortec has a bit of a round in the corner of the cutting edge which makes the cut look right , square and sharp like the saw blade wont give the look . All you need to do is develop a pattern to the way the tool is applied ,paint it black and take pictures with the light throwing a shadow like in the original and you've got it .

Originally Posted by ian

I'm thinking that if it is chisels and gouges the maker has gone over the surface multiple times

first time with something like a 20-25mm wide #4 or #5 sweep gouge
then with a number of deeper sweeps (such as a #8, #9 or #11)
sometimes the maker has carved at an angle to the original "flake"

Would the deeper sweep gouge be several mm narrower than the original pass? Say a 25mm #5 then 18-20mm #9?

Originally Posted by Gravestone

Would the deeper sweep gouge be several mm narrower than the original pass? Say a 25mm #5 then 18-20mm #9?

I was thinking that the #9, if used, would be in the 5-10mm range

So just a little update, I had a little play around with some gouges and achieved an effect similar to the piece in image four of the original post, though more subtle. I also got my hands on an arbortech woodcarving disc and after a quick play around this afternoon was achieving something much closer to what I was hoping for. It's gonna take a bit more practice to dial in the technique but I'm sure it will get there.

IMG_6573.jpgIMG_6574.jpg

So it is doable by hand

According to Architectural Digest Russia (via a pinterest pin);
"Havet'-Gunnar Dahl and Karolina Stenfelt worked together with designers and art directors Karl-Johan Hjerling and Karin Wallenbäck to produce a new collection by SNICKERIET. Using an angle grinder, the surface of the 'havet' cabinet is chiseled to create the same effect as the waves of an ocean. after being built as a classic pine storage unit, the effect is made by hand, creating a distinctive pattern on all sides -- a process which takes just as long as building the furniture piece itself."

And if the other two photos were from Japan/Japanese workshops then they were probably done with Japanese adzes, its a traditional finish for beams and rural structural timbers though the name escapes me. On a lesser level a more subtle effect that can be somewhat similar is also done using yarigana/spear planes, and is often found in more refined and formal spaces.

Just buy one of these:

Motorized Curve Planer-CE96H

amazing what you can find on the internet huh?