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Thread: Using drum sander as Thicknesser
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19th May 2014, 07:18 PM #16
Hi John
don't forget that your sander can be fitted with 60 or 40 grit abrasive.
with a grit that coarse, you'll be able to take a lot more than a "poofteenth" off with each pass.
However, I'd swap to a 120 or 180 abrasive belt before the sander is doing a full width sand.
of course if there's a lot of warp and twist to remove perhaps start with a #5 hand plane (with a severely curved blade) or rip the slab into one or more strips. Better to have narrow veneer strips than to turn a 1/3 of the slab into dust.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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19th May 2014, 10:53 PM #17... and this too shall pass away ...
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Ian,
That's exactly what I did.
I took off a biggish warp on one corner with a plane after gluing the slab to the MDF. The sander has 80 grit on at the moment, but I still took it reasonably slowly so I did not test the hot melt glue too severely.
In the end, it was all very simple and easy.
Cheerio!
John
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20th May 2014, 01:51 AM #18
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20th May 2014, 08:46 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Hi John and all,
You are getting real good at this aren't you, those veneers are looking fantastic and the coffee table came up a treat.
Regards Rod.
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20th May 2014, 10:07 AM #20... and this too shall pass away ...
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Tahnks Rod.
The truth is that Ian (the one from Sydney who encouraged me to give veneering a go and who gave me the tips needed to make a start) was right. It is nowhere as difficult as I had imagined. Even on my old Trade Tools saw I managed to cut veneers and laminate successfully ... and I do love my vacuum presses. They make gluing the veneers to a substrate a piece of cake. I cannot even begin to understand why anyone would still use clamps and cauls when we can pull at least 25" of Hg pressure (a bit over 13 PSI) with a lump of clear vinyl and a pump designed to extract air from wine bottles. Still ... different strokes, I suppose. Others like their clamps and cauls ... I choose not to use them.
Cheerio!
John
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