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Thread: Chopping Boards

  1. #1
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    Question Chopping Boards

    Hi I am a newbie to woodworking, so please don’t slap me to hard if I ask or say something stupid.

    What I want do to is make some chopping boards for Xmas presents.
    anyone have any plans or Ideas I was thinking of a check pattern or maybe use slats of two different kinds of wood, maybe pine and a darker wood.
    If anyone has any Ideas on what wood I could use for my first project or any plans etc, it would be grate.

    Thx in advance

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  3. #2
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    I have made a couple of boards, made them out of Jarrah, (its really common here in WA). The Glue i used was titebond 2, it was the only one that said it was ok for bread boards (Carbatec sell it). I used a number of methods, some i just glued together, others i have used biscuit joints, but i reckon gluing would be just fine. I was using up some jarrah that i had lying around, i only used one type of wood, but found that there was enough variation in the colour of the wood to create some nice patterns, either grauating from dark to lighter or alternating.
    After sanding smooth, i just finished with vegetable oil. The experts tell me olive oil is a no no, it just clogs up the wood???.

    Good Luck!!!
    Paul

  4. #3
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    Hi Paul, when you make your chopping board, how do you go about gluing the peaces? do you do them all in one go or a row at the time or how?

  5. #4
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    Marc,

    Take a look at a previous thread on chopping boards: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...&threadid=1103

    If you use PVA you'd have a tough time doing a large board with a dozen or more pieces in one go I would think. My dad & I used Selleys Resorcinol and the two of us could do one board with a dozen or so pieces out of one batch, working quickly as a team, and get it clamped up just before the glue went off.

    I wouldn't think using pine in a chopping board would be a good idea - wouldn't last long. The ones we made are Jarrah and after over a year of abuse they're still intact & barely showing any wear & tear. Remember a soft timber is going to hold food particles in the nicks etc.

    Bunnings carry a good oil designed for the purpose to treat chopping boards - in a black plastic bottle, near Organoil in the paints section, can't remeber the brand.

    Bunnings also have Jarrah in many stores, and Tassie Oak if you want a contrast. Or go visit a timber specialist and get something more interesting maybe? Doubt it would cost any more than Bunnies prices on Jarrah

  6. #5
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    Thank you Darryl, mine was just curiosity. I suppose that if you want to build a few you could set up a sort of horizontal caul and clamp the whole lot in one go.

    As for the glue, I am surprised at the proposals. I don’t' know about Resorcinol, but Cascamite and Phenolic glues are poisonous and carcinogenic and off the market in many countries for that reason. PVA does not contain many vitamins, but at least once set is not dangerous if ingested.

    I agree that pine would be a poor choice unless the board is only for decoration. Jarrah sounds nice. How about a combination of Jarrah and Tallow wood? Or Tallow wood and Merbau? Mm may start to play chess in stead of chopping duck . . . .

  7. #6
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    I have used olive oil and it gummed things up all right. Had very good results from Ruskins Danish oil though. Rub on generously, wait 10-15 min then rub it off and dry 24 hrs then do it all again. After 3-4 coats the finish lasts a long while and it's food safe too.

  8. #7
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    Originally posted by Marc
    Hi Paul, when you make your chopping board, how do you go about gluing the peaces? do you do them all in one go or a row at the time or how?
    Marc...
    My boards are about 300mm x 200 (a4 sheet size), they are made up of about 7 - 12 strips of timber depending on which orientation i use them.

    I have three pipe clamps to hold it all together, the outside ones underneath and the the middle one on top to balance things out.

    i just apply the glue and clamp altogether at once.

    after a day or so in the clamps it generally needs a good sand to get the ridges out, although with biscuit jointing atleast one side is pretty smooth, but its easy and quick to sand anyway....

    Paul

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