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11th August 2017, 11:23 AM #61GOLD MEMBER
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I don't make many curved items, but yes, I have used the Purbond successfully for curved new work. Other polyurethanes can get the annoying bubbles that can weaken the joint.
For antique repairs I use only animal glue/hide glue/sometimes called hoof and hide glue. You can buy it in small beads "pearls" - so sometimes also called pearl glue, and heat it up in a double-walled glue pot. The Titebond liquid hide glue seems to work well too, though I have only used it for small repairs. It is really convenient because it comes as a liquid in a squeeze bottle. Traditionally the hide glue was used for all veneering work, curved and flat, and items made hundreds of years ago are still strong today. However, because it is reversible with hot water it would not be any good for items that can get wet, whereas Purbond is waterproof.
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11th August 2017 11:23 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th August 2017, 11:36 AM #62
I have not yet started using the vacuum bag setup yet. But I have finished all the critical components and made a small test run.
I have made a 1.5 x 1.5 meter vacuum bag using 0.75mm Vinyl and HH-66 PVC 4 oz Vinyl Cement Glue with Brush. I highly recommend having someone help you with it. I followed the instructions given by veneersupplies.com. I ended up making my own Bag Stem Assembly. Using the 1/2" connector that came with the pump I purchased two Mudguard Washer 1/2" x 2 x 14g Imperial Penny Marine Stainless Steel G316 and some Closed Cell Neoprene as a gasket material, I bought a thin profile nut to go with the 1/2" fitting. Drilling a 1/2" in my bag and fitted the whole assembly. It works like a charm and cost be a few bucks.
I had a basic former lying around for a chair back slat. I quickly cut two veneers and applied glue and put the former, and the glue sandwich into the bag I simple used to pieces of wood and clamps to seal the bag.
The pump sucked all the air out of the bag and generated a hard vacuum in less then 25 seconds in a 1.5 x 1.5 meter bag.
I ran it for 4 hours to let the glue cure, turned off the machine and I had my curved component.
I however need to make a base / bottom platten with channels cut into it that fits my bag. I am waiting for my table saw to arrive before I can do that.
I opted for a vacuum pump because I plan to vacuum press large 1.5 x 1.5 meter pieces.
I think however that if you are only aiming to veneers small things like boxes then the Roarocket kit is the better option.
I am still looking for a better way of sealing the bag other than two sticks & clamps, I like the look of this method. I think that this things must be easy to find if only I knew WHAT THEY ARE CALLED? I suspect that the white rod is just some kind of plastic rod but what the blue channel is and were to buy it that I do not know??
bag clip.jpg
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11th August 2017, 12:01 PM #63SENIOR MEMBER
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Sounds like a great setup thumbsucker.
As for sealing the bag, I cut a matching cove in 2 pieces of pine that was just slightly smaller than a piece of dowel and clamped that shut.
I'm sure you've already come across this site but these guys might be able to sell you just the pipe and channel for sealing the bag.
YAREUS Pty. Ltd. - Products
Look forward to seeing it in action.
shane
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11th August 2017, 12:07 PM #64GOLD MEMBER
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I have seen that system with one of the commercial kits - I think it was one for making model aeroplanes.
Another alternative I have seen that works well is similar to your two sticks and clamps but has a significant improvement. Both of the "sticks" of timber are grooved along their length. In one groove is set a length of the yellow tongue used in chipboard floors (so the groove provides a tight fit for the yellow tongue). The second stick has a slightly wider groove so that the yellow tongue plus the double thickness of your vinyl bag just fit into it. When you squeeze the two sticks together with spring clamps you easily get a perfect seal. I'll see if I have a photo but cannot find it at the moment.Last edited by Xanthorrhoeas; 11th August 2017 at 12:08 PM. Reason: unclear
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11th August 2017, 12:14 PM #65GOLD MEMBER
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Shane is absolutely correct. The Yareus site says: "The C-channel closer at the end of the bag can be moved down the bag for smaller setups and faster pressing time"
Last edited by Xanthorrhoeas; 12th August 2017 at 09:35 AM. Reason: clarity
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11th August 2017, 12:45 PM #66GOLD MEMBER
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An alternative closer is a length of flyscreen moulding and the plastic bead that is used to hold the flywire. With the normal fitting tool it is very easy to insert the bead and you can get it at Bunnies.
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11th August 2017, 01:55 PM #67GOLD MEMBER
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Some of the composite suppliers have vacuum bagging stuff including the clips.
Vacuum Bagging Sealants | Page 1 of 1
Pete
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11th August 2017, 02:53 PM #68
I found these from one of your earlier posts: Off The Edge Sailplanes :: Vacuum Bagging
They call them a QUICK LOCK SEALS
BTW, I cant find which pump you ended up buying. Can I be a real PITA and ask for a few links so to make it easy on me
After the new DC, this is my next target.
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11th August 2017, 03:31 PM #69
I did a bit of searching and found that the outside clip is a rigid U shaped extrusion. I found a company up the road from me that sells them, I have emailed them and hope to get a price. It should be cheaper buying from someone selling a generic product (rigid U shaped extrusion) then the same product from a specialist seller (vacuum bag sealing clip) - Cut out the middle man.
Screen Shot 2017-08-11 at 2.03.05 pm.png
Then I just need to buy a dowel or a plastic rod whose diameter is about 3mm smaller then the inside of the rigid U shaped extrusion. The 3mm is the 0.75mm vinyl thickness times 4.
The model I bought was the parallel 140RND.
http://www.bettervac.com.au/products/smalloillessvacuumpump/Dry-piston-pump.pdf
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11th August 2017, 09:08 PM #70
Grey electrical conduit 50 -70mm longer than the bag for the inner component.
Orange electrical conduit of the same diameter (thicker wall you see) for the exterior clip/clamp
Cut a slot, carefully and safely, so that the orange one can be clipped over the grey one with the bag between the two. I'll have a look and take a photo soon.
CheersThere ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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12th August 2017, 01:04 AM #71GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Thumbsucker,
Thanks for the comprehensive detail - much appreciated. Would be very interested to hear your views once the pump has been in service for a couple of months.
Xanthorrhoeas - thanks for the thoughts on hide glue. Used to use this (we called it bone glue) in the UK when I was at school. A double boiler, a gas ring and an awful smell!! At least I think it was the glue.....
Thanks to all for the input - it is a great help.
Brian
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12th August 2017, 10:29 PM #72Novice
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woodPixel covered it pretty well, I'll just throw in that they are also called 'Tube & Sleeve Closure' or 'C-Channel Closure' - see this article on JoeWoodworker.
Last edited by chrisw; 12th August 2017 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Added link
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21st January 2018, 07:46 PM #73
Hey guys, after receiving my pump, I'm trying to source parts and whilst at Bunnies today I saw an item like this
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JFLEX-WA...QAAOSwiDFYQVPY
It is listed as a 40micron filter for compressed air systems.
Can anyone think of a reason why it can't be used with a vacuum system (ie negative pressure) instead of positive?
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21st January 2018, 07:55 PM #74
I opted for this:
Motorcycle Scooter Gasoline Filter Clear Inline Gas Fuel 6mm Hose Silver | eBay
These are supposed to be 40 micron.
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21st January 2018, 07:57 PM #75Taking a break
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150PSI is obviously the maximum rated pressure, but is there a minimum pressure required for such a filter to work? The greatest negative pressure possible for a vacuum system is only 14.7PSI
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