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Thread: Warped Panels

  1. #1
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    Default Warped Panels

    I started a tool chest build a while back. It's going to be a big one. A little under a meter long. I had the panels glued up, flattened, squared, and ready to be joined.

    As luck would have it, I had a number of things come up, including a string of smaller but still time consuming projects. The panels were just leaning against the wall in the shop. Since I last worked on them, we have transitioned from a pretty awful summer to a relatively cool and dry winter (by Brisbane standards...).

    Today, I got the panels out and began to think about finally revisiting the project, and they have warped pretty seriously. I'm not even sure they're still useable.

    So I'm looking for advice on a number of things.

    First off, the timber is red gum. Pretty much every piece I used in the project so far is flat sawn, which was obviously a mistake. Is this a characteristic of red gum? Even if I start over, is the chest going to pull itself apart every winter regardless of how much care I take?

    Second, are these pieces useable as is? I can flex them back to flat with my hands, so, in theory, I could clamp them flat, cut all of my dovetails, then clamp the box for the glueup, but would the glue hold them? Or would they just come apart in the first week?

    Third, is there anything I can do to flatten them? Could I clamp them flat and wait a couple of weeks and then get back into the project?

    And finally, I have a pretty sizeable stack of the RG. I feel like, if I dig enough, I can get enough quartersawn pieces to do this again. How necessary would you say this is?

    Anyway, bottom line is: What would you do if you were in this situation?

    My very next project is a chest in Tassie Oak so I don't want to screw that one up too...

    Thanks a lot in advance.

    Cheers,
    Luke

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Photos might help:

    image1 (13).jpgimage2 (7).jpg

  4. #3
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    Hi Luke ,
    next time keep them all stacked face to face . on a scrap sheet of board or two , chip board or MDF . and cover them with the same leaving only edges exposed until you want to join them up .

    The cupped ones you now have , I would try wetting one side, the concave side, the side you want to expand back straight, and lay it down on a concrete floor .
    Or let it sit wet side down on some grass with the top getting some sun . it can swing back the other way very quickly so watch it carefully .

    The concrete way May be safer , try a little water at a time , not sitting in a wet pool of it . if you can get it straight and close to dry at the same time stack between boards and check the next day

    Rob

  5. #4
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    That's not a screw-up Luke, that's just red gum particularly river red gum as opposed to the forest variety. I've seen a red gum table gradually lift one of it's legs off the floor during the day, put it back down during the night and do it all over again the next day!

    Auscab has given you some pretty good suggestions as to a possible fix, but whatever you do don't put it in the sun. If you put it on the concrete floor convex side down with some weight on the ends this may well be enough to straighten it sufficiently to make it usable. A couple of days may be long enough. I'd be very interested to hear how you get on with it.

    Cheers,
    David

  6. #5
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    It works , but catching it before it goes to far is tricky , check it every 15 minutes .
    I do it on my wooden floor . And Im usually doing it with Oak , cherry or Walnut , or red cedar

    Red gum is a big mover . Ive never tried it with that though .

    Rob

  7. #6
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    +1 for the water and floor method but, as mentioned, keep an eye on it or it'll cup the other way.

    Once you get them flat(ish) again, keep them stacked on a flat surface with sticks between each one (and between the bottom one and whatever you'r stacking them on) to allow airflow over all surfaces.

  8. #7
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    Ok well that's all good to hear...

    So I'm planning on dovetailing this all together with lots of dovetails and having the bottom nailed into a rebate, then making a top which works in a similar way. The top will not be a flat piece of wood but an actual shallow "tray". It's a campaign style chest and I plan to use the inside of the top of the box for storing longer tools etc.

    Here's a photo of the general idea:

    http://images.onlinegalleries.com/gfx/142629.jpg

    Is this a crazy idea? Is this wood simply too dynamic for a project like this?

    Cheers,
    Luke

  9. #8
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    Are you going to do the brass ? I like that , you could do it yourself instead of buying it , those boxes had quite thin brass .
    A lot of the boxes like that Ive worked on ,same as that, the Antique ones, were made from Camphor.
    I googled antique Camphor chest and your pic is in there . There a pretty common type of box , smell great inside . the wood camphor warps and moves around quite a bit itself, so Redgum should be good . Heavy !

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=A...IVBZSmCh0JrQ9L

    Rob

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Are you going to do the brass ? I like that , you could do it yourself instead of buying it , those boxes had quite thin brass .
    A lot of the boxes like that Ive worked on ,same as that, the Antique ones, were made from Camphor.
    I googled antique Camphor chest and your pic is in there . There a pretty common type of box , smell great inside . the wood camphor warps and moves around quite a bit itself, so Redgum should be good . Heavy !

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=A...IVBZSmCh0JrQ9L

    Rob
    Yeah, I'm pretty excited about it. It's definitely going to require several guys to move it... Hopefully that doesn't have to happen too many times.

    Good to know that I haven't chosen a fundamentally incompatible timber. Starting over would've been less than ideal.

    Cheers,
    Luke

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