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Thread: Weatherproofing

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    Thanks for the photos.
    Simple and legally ok solution.
    Pull down the breeze blocks, build a timber frame wall with H3 treatment, sheet with preferred/cheapest cladding but make sure you use wall sarking first and Alcor flashing under bottom plate turned down externally and turned up internally. Keep external face of framework b ack from face of beam so cladding finishes either flush with beam or better still, back from face of beam by 10mm.
    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SEAL ANY CLADDING TO BOTTOM OF GUTTER - NEVER EVER. If the gutter over flows, it will flood over the back edge of the gutter and flood internally.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Thornton NSW
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    456

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    Yep, do as as rwbuild suggests. One, this will let you insulate while not increasing the wall thickness which means you don't lose internal space. Two, you'll improve the street appearance by doing it properly, and your neighbours will appreciate that. Third, it'll allow you to fit a window. You need natural light while keeping that roller door shut. And finally, if you just bodgy something up, pretty soon you'll have other stuff in the way and you'll take years to do it properly. If you've got a comfortable space to work in you will use it, and that's really the point isn't it.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    651

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    Sorry guys back again.

    Still working on which way to go. I do like the idea of pulling down and rebuilding wall but feel it may be a bit out of budget at the moment. Not to mention the cost of dumping the bricks.

    So I'm back to looking at filling in the voids. Big challenge I know.. My concern here is if the wall is pretty much just free standing would this be ok? Can I/ do I need to anchor it to the beam? Its certainly a solid wall at 190mm deep.

    Alternatively anyone hazard a guess/quote on what it would cost(rough guide) to get a builder in? Just for the labour, Ive pretty much priced the materials. Feel free to pm me if you don't want it public.

    Thanks again guys.
    shane

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    4,774

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    Getting rid of those blocks and building a timber frame wall is the way to go but as a temporary measure, place some pieces of ply over the inside and fill the voids with foam-a-fill. Let it dry, cut it off flush and paint it. Will block wind and rain till you can do the job properly
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    74
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    3,381

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shanesmith80 View Post
    Sorry guys back again.

    Still working on which way to go. I do like the idea of pulling down and rebuilding wall but feel it may be a bit out of budget at the moment. Not to mention the cost of dumping the bricks.

    So I'm back to looking at filling in the voids. Big challenge I know.. My concern here is if the wall is pretty much just free standing would this be ok? Can I/ do I need to anchor it to the beam? Its certainly a solid wall at 190mm deep.

    Alternatively anyone hazard a guess/quote on what it would cost(rough guide) to get a builder in? Just for the labour, Ive pretty much priced the materials. Feel free to pm me if you don't want it public.

    Thanks again guys.
    shane
    1 day 1 man between $400 & $600 approx
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Birkdale Redland City
    Age
    65
    Posts
    49

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    Clad the outside wall with Ripple iron or the like metal panel sheeting
    light weight easy to fix to Furling channel and put some flashing under the gutter over the cladding .
    it would be painful to install your cladding and then have it leak between the gutter and the cladding.

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